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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1
Ingredients / Re: coffee stout
« on: December 08, 2017, 11:04:55 AM »
Make your own cold brew or else just put cracked beans into the fermenter.

Hot-brewed coffee can work OK, but you'll get more acidity and it will also stale quicker in my experience.

I do cracked beans into the keg for 24-48 hours.  My coffee guy tells me after 24 hours your not getting anything more from the beans.

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When to add nibs n' stuff?
« on: December 06, 2017, 06:41:46 PM »
I would wait until it's fermented out and then add the nibs etc.  I don't see the need to earn to 73 but I don't see much harm to it either. If you have big beers it could help them finish. Either way add your additions after fermentation is done. 


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3
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: December 06, 2017, 06:35:00 PM »
I generally avoid trader joes but maybe a trip is in order.


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4
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: December 05, 2017, 03:44:19 PM »
I've been enjoying Henry McKenna bottled in bond lately.  Damn good and at $32 it may replace some of my preferred bottles (I'm looking at you Wathen's) which have crept up in price over the years.  At 100 proof, it's very smooth and not hot.



I'll be looking to pick some up, Joe. Sounds like a good value for roughly Knob Creek money. Thanks.

Let me know what you think. 

I've been going through bourbon pretty quickly lately, particularly with friends coming by over Thanksgiving, and I've defaulted to the handle-sized Bulliet.  It's good stuff, not my favorite, but at $42 for 1.75L on sale it's a damn bargain.

5
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: December 05, 2017, 01:52:33 PM »
I've been enjoying Henry McKenna bottled in bond lately.  Damn good and at $32 it may replace some of my preferred bottles (I'm looking at you Wathen's) which have crept up in price over the years.  At 100 proof, it's very smooth and not hot.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxygenating wort with a wine whip?
« on: November 29, 2017, 07:38:52 PM »
Right. I've got an aquarium pump also and I would nit use it without the filter. There's loads of difference between unfiltered ambient air and pumping it directly into your wort.

I've never done a full open ferment but I've started using a loose piece of foil rather than an airlock for the first couple days. More to not have the back pressure (3724) than anything else.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxygenating wort with a wine whip?
« on: November 29, 2017, 02:17:29 PM »
Who sanitizes the room air?

People with clean rooms?
[/quote]
Yep, rooms with positive pressure through a HEPA filter.
[/quote]

I aerate in my basement.  The air is not sanitized.  But my aeration stone is. 

I've had very few infections in 20+ years of brewing.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxygenating wort with a wine whip?
« on: November 29, 2017, 01:56:45 PM »
Playing devils advocate here,

How are people sanitizing their drills?

So the spinning whip, mixstir, paint stirrer, what have you..  is spinning the wort. The swirling vortex then pulls air into the vessel from outside. And what is directly outside? The whirling ventilated fan/motor of a drill. Hurling God knows what into the air directly above the opening of the vessel.

And we pick at people who only soak their O2 wand in sanitizer...

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Who sanitizes the room air?

People with clean rooms?

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Racking techniques
« on: November 17, 2017, 01:57:51 PM »
Is there a simple way to purge the ambient air from the cane and tubing in this respect?  I guess one could hook up the CO2 and run it through the cane and tubing for a while before putting it into the cap and hope for the best, but I have been wondering about this and couldn't think of a foolproof, yet simple way to resolve it.

Simple, just don't drain the sanitizer. Start the siphon and run what's left in the line down the drain.

Do you put the racking cane into the fermenter when it's full of sanitizer?  I've never done that.  I always started the siphon with only the hose filled, which is often times a PITA and which led me to pushing the beer out with CO2.

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Been gone for about 10 years...
« on: November 15, 2017, 09:40:58 AM »
Still wanna know who the BIG Beer brewer was in Michigan though.... kinda wanting to go that direction... at least a good portion of it I think.

I believe Fred Bonjour is the guy you're remembering.


11
Beer Recipes / Re: Strong ale grain bill
« on: November 10, 2017, 02:17:57 PM »
IMO, melanoidins from the kettle have a different flavor than using crystal

Maybe I need to do both.  Add crystal and boil longer.

12
Beer Recipes / Re: Strong ale grain bill
« on: November 10, 2017, 12:29:46 PM »
Personally I wouldn't use any crystal malt in a DIPA and in fact I would be adding sugar to dry it out a bit.


I do both.  Crystal for flavor, but balance with sugar for fermentability.

You can also do a long(er) boil and leave out the crystal.  I've yet to hit the flavors I'm targeting for with this, but I've had beers brewed by others where a long boil has brought out awesome carmel flavors.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Secondary Fermentation
« on: November 09, 2017, 09:12:42 AM »
Here's the list I found:

62% 6.6 Liquid Malt Extract - Dark - 18° Extract
19% 2 Dry Malt Extract - Dark - 18° Extract
5% 0.5 Maltodextrin - US 39 0° Extract
5% 0.5 Caramel/Crystal 60  60° Steep
5% 0.5 Roasted Barley  300° Steep
5% 0.5 Black Patent Malt  500° Steep
1 Northern Brewer  Pellet Boil 60 minutes
0.5 Northern Brewer  Pellet Boil 45 minutes


1.Steep Grains with 2.5 gallons of water @ 150-165 for 20 minutes
2.Boil wort with LME, DME, and Maltodextrin @ 60
3.1oz Northern Brewer @ 60
4..5oz Northern Brewer @ 45
5.Cool wort, transfer, add water to make 5 gallons
6.Pitch Yeast (do not rehydrate)
7.Primary Fermentation @ 64-72 for 5-7 days
8.Secondary Fermentation for 2 weeks
9.Bottle with 3.5oz priming sugar into 2 cups water (boiled for 5 minutes)

With all that dark extract plus maltodextrin, that looks like something that could end up pretty sweet.  Which could be OK for the style.  Personally, I would add a half pound of sugar (or substitute it for a half pound of the dry extract) to try to have a lower FG than you're likely to get otherwise.

But if you want to keep it simple and stick to the recipe there's no harm in that.  Particularly for one of your first brews.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Secondary Fermentation
« on: November 08, 2017, 03:44:39 PM »
That is my next question for the Russian Imperial Stout kit from Brewers Best.
The packet of yeast says do not rehydrate.
What is the best approach?
Pitch the yeast or follow the directions?

Can you also post the recipe for the kit?  If it's all extract, we may have recommendations on simple steps that will improve your fermentation and make sure that an all-extract big beer does not stall out or end with a super sweet high final gravity.

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Soy sauce stout
« on: November 08, 2017, 03:39:58 PM »
Soy sauce and kibble are big beer (High OG) oxidation flavors, homies.

I ran oxygen for about 30 seconds.
I am new to pure oxygen, typically I used to shake the carboy. I have also been nervous about using oxygen because I didn't want to eff up a beer, but I used the same amount of oxygen on a 10% wee heavy and the beer taste fine.

Typically how long should I oxygenate for if you think oxygen is part of the issue, I've read 30-60 seconds and plan to stick to thwith lower side of the timeline when I brew.

He's talking oxidation, not oxygenation.  60 seconds of oxygen pre-fermentation (oxygenation) is fine.  Exposure to oxygen post-fermentation (oxidation) can stale your beer or cause off flavors.

IME, it would be pretty hard for the beer to get badly oxidized in the primary fermenter.  How much splashing was there when you transferred to secondary?  You could oxidize there, but I don't know how quickly that would change the flavor to soy sauce.  I've seen oxidation change a beer's color pretty quickly, though.

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