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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1081
Homebrew Competitions / Re: Final Round Scores
« on: June 13, 2015, 05:02:53 PM »
Well, I'm pouring a coffee stout and getting ready for the puck to drop.

We'll see how the stout did in the morning, probably.  Not sure I'll stay up for the scores to post from the west coast.

1082
Homebrew Competitions / Re: Final Round Scores
« on: June 12, 2015, 09:56:36 AM »
My banquet will be here in Chicago.  Watching the Blackhawks hopefully whoop up on Tampa.

1083
Homebrew Competitions / Re: Final Round Scores
« on: June 12, 2015, 09:47:37 AM »
I want to look, too.

I think I'll wait and postpone the disappointment.

1084
All Grain Brewing / Re: Priming 1 12 oz bottle??
« on: June 12, 2015, 07:41:23 AM »
1 sugar cube per bottle

This remains on my list of things I need to try.

I've found the Brewer's Best conditioning tablets to be inconsistent.  But, that may be attributable to how I store them and the fact that the break into pieces sometimes.

1085
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 11, 2015, 02:59:45 PM »
I know people do it, but I am just totally averse to starting a siphon by sucking on it.

These days, I pressurize by Better Bottles to start the siphon.  Back in the day, I used to fill the siphon hose with water to get it started, which was a PITA but better than sucking on the hose.

1086
All Grain Brewing / Re: Are my grains still good?
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:05:07 PM »
I'm not sure I understand why efficiency would suffer.  The starches should still convert just fine.

Also not so sure why you think color would be off.  We're talking about grain, not old LME which will darken with age.

The flavor of the grains may not be as fresh, but I think that would be the only impact.  I'm not even sure how that would translate through to the finished beer, but it could have a flavor impact for sure.

I say brew with it.  If you're really worried, mix it in with some fresh grains to minimize the impact.

1087
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 12:47:31 PM »
I have a test tube-type cylinder that I take my readings in.

I use a turkey baster to remove beer from the fermenter and place it in the the tube.

If you're using a carboy or better bottle, this should work pretty well for you.

1088
All Grain Brewing / Re: Westvleteren Beer Color
« on: June 10, 2015, 07:33:55 AM »
I believe sometimes it's Beet sugar but ultimately your assessment is accurate.

Beet sugar, cane sugar, whatever.  Once it's refined it's all just sucrose.

1089
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When can I test my s.g.?
« on: June 10, 2015, 07:10:41 AM »
As long as your sanitation is good, it shouldn't be an issue.

Personally, I would wait until signs of active fermentation have stopped.

1090
If you think they are badly overcarbed and still carbing, you could open them to release pressure and recap them quickly.

Not an ideal solution, but better than bottle bombs.

If you do this, I'd make it a two person operation so they can be recapped as quickly as possible.  I don't think you need to take the cap off completely, just enough to release some pressure.

FTR-  I have never done this, but I've seen where others claim to have done so.

1091
I know for sure that Victory uses a bottling yeast.  At least for Golden Monkey.  Same with Franziskaner.

There are a couple others I can't think of off the top of my head.

But, there are probably many many more that don't bother.

1092
I've enjoyed a few bottle conditioned beers recently and was wondering if it's possible to cultivate the left over yeast. Is the yeast still viable after being conditioned in the bottle? How much leftover yeast would I need for a successful starter, if possible? I also wonder if the creation of CO2 by the yeast is enough to kill any existing yeast in the bottle.

This is pretty easy to do. Just make a very small starter 50-100ml and pour it in to the bottle after you have carefully poured out the beer and saved the yeast on the bottom. The biggest caveat is that many bottle conditioned beers use a different yeast at bottling for the carbonation, so you can't be sure that the yeast you are growing up are the same yeast that were used to create the beer in the first place.

This is all true.  There is a list on-line somewhere that someone put together of which beers use a bottling yeast and which don't.  Not sure it's 100% accurate, but for example Franziskaner bottles with a lager yeast.  You can culture it, but you won't get a wheat yeast.

Also, start with very low OG wort, be patient, and plan to step up several times. 

1093
Served it on Saturday at a party.  The flavor is much improved.  What's left I will age for a bit.

T'was a rocking party until the waste stack burst.

Three or four guys with cups of 12% beer trying to figure out plumbing. 

We adjourned to elsewhere.

1094
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Green Beers
« on: June 05, 2015, 01:00:11 PM »
This, from an 1899 parliamentary investigation in to beer grists:

(a.) Stock ale, kept 4 to 12 months before delivery:—
Fine English malt - - 66 to 66
Fine foreign malt - - 25 to 34
No. 1 invert sugar or glucose - 9 to 0
100

(b.) Semi-stock pale bottling beers, kept about three months before delivery:-
Good to fine English malt - - -.,60
Good to fine foreign malt - - - 25
No. 2 invert sugar or glucose - - 15
100

(c.) Light pale ales (A.K.), kept about 2 to 4 weeks before delivery:—
Good to fine English malt - - -.,55
Good to fine foreign malt - - - 25
No. 2 invert sugar or glucose - - 20
100

(d.) Mild ale (X. or XX.—fourpenny) kept four to ten days before delivery :—
Good English malt - - - -50
Good ordinary foreign malt - - - 25
No. 2, invert or glucose - - - 25
100

The full post is here: http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2010/03/parliament-investigates-beer-grists.html

Dammit!  I've gone back down the rabbit hole.

1095
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Green Beers
« on: June 05, 2015, 12:34:04 PM »
The aging of traditional Brit IPAs was not to gain some benefit, it was the nature of transportation by ship.

^^This^^
True to some degree...but the fact is that in those days, many ales and most porters were intentionally and routinely long aged to benefit flavor, even for domestic use.

I'm curious enough about this to ask for your source.

I could be wrong, but I think Ron Pattinson covers this extensively in some of his posts at Shut up about Barclay Perkins.  His notates his sources pretty well.

My recollection is that the aged ales were also frequently blended back with fresher ales to get the benefit of the aged flavors.  But it's been awhile since I've dug in on his blog.  Good stuff over there.

EDIT: From a quick check over at Ron's site, stock and keeping ales were aged before sale.  Milds were sold unaged, "mild" having nothing to do with strength.  Like I said, good stuff over there.

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