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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1186
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lagering/Filtration
« on: August 21, 2015, 12:04:58 PM »
Yeah.  I probably boiled it the first time.  But who knows?  That was way back in the day.

The last few years I have followed pretty much the same method that you posted and no problems.

1187
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lagering/Filtration
« on: August 21, 2015, 11:50:58 AM »
I can see the gross factor. 

Time and cold work just as well.  I reserve gelatin for stubborn beers that just. wont. clear.

The first couple times I used gelatin I don't know what I did for sure, but I did it wrong.  I wound up with bottles that had chunks of gelatin in the bottom.  It was years before I tried it again. 

I will fine a keg.  Then transfer to a clean keg.  All the grossness gets left behind.

1188
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lagering/Filtration
« on: August 21, 2015, 11:12:31 AM »
Denny, you crash in buckets, yes? Does it suck all your sanitizer back from the airlock? That's only thing I don't like about cold crashing.
Gelatin works, but then you have to put that nasty sh*t in your beer. I try not to add anything "unnatural" if I can help it.

Gelatin is not "unnatural."  Quite the opposite.

It is, however, not vegan.

1189
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: hot, young beer
« on: August 20, 2015, 07:40:55 AM »
By 'hot' do you think fermentation temps got a little high? Bigger beers that fermented cool enough can seem boozy early on, then smooth out in a month or three. Higher temp 'hot' fusels make for headache bombs. I bet it'll be a totally different beer in a month.

It fermented with us05 around 63F for the first few days then I let it free rise to around 70f over a couple of days and it finished up there never getting above 72. Maybe I should have kept it at a lower temp longer. I plan to bottle next week and hope for a good brew. By hot I just meant alcoholic tasting like booze. I rarely brew higher og beers so I don't have first hand knowledge here. I would say the long mash at a low temp with some simple sugar did the trick here...

I don't see any issues with your fermentation schedule.  Letting the temp rise helps bigger beers to finish, IME.

I think you might be rushing a little on bottling.  I would bulk age it for a bit and see if it mellows.  I'd give it at least another week, probably two, beyond what you're planning.  Waiting will not harm the beer.

1190
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: keeping conan
« on: August 18, 2015, 02:00:33 PM »
You can also culture 3864 from the bottle.

But that doesn't help Homo.

I have used year old slurries, stepped up, with no problem.

Yeast is pretty hardy, IME. 

1191
Ingredients / Re: Honey in beldian strong ale
« on: August 16, 2015, 07:42:17 PM »
I used buckwheat honey once and thought it was horrible.

All of the sweetness was gone and there was the nasty strong flavor of buckwheat.

There are some what liked it.  And I gave them as much as they would take.

I would recommend you use a very small amount.

1192
Bigfoot is open fermented.

Speaking of Bigfoot, I need to get better at being able to squirrel away that beer.

I have a case in the basement that I won at a silent auction. I do not enjoy big foot so It will age.

If there's another case available this year I will bid on it, but not really planning to drink it.

I've tried. Don't enjoy it.

But it will. E interesting to see what happens to it in a few years.


1193
FWIW, plenty of breweries use compressed air.
Sierra Nevada uses sterile filtered air for most of the beers with the Chico yeast. Bigfoot is open fermented. I don't know what they do for their lagers.

Don't they know that they're not doing it in the absolute best way possible?  They could be making better beer if only...

I had to go check out HBT after reading this thread.  There are people over there who know the absolute best way of doing everything. 

But seriously, the dude talking about pure O2 making a night and day difference in his beer is a pompous goof.  I have changed many processes over the years, and none made a night and day difference. 

I've had incremental improvement over a long period of time, so perhaps if you benchmarked my beer made more than 15 years ago with no thought to fermentation temp, no aeration (other than splashing), and no starter against the beer I'm making today you would get night/day differences.  But that didn't happen over night or from one simple process change.

1194
We're 3/4 of the way through 2015.  Should we not start a new thread?

I shall not be brewing this weekend.  Kegging a saison, perhaps.  Assuming 3724 has had enough time to finish.

1195
How does this person on HBT know what level of dissolved oxygen they're getting in their wort?  Just because you're using pure O2 doesn't necessarily mean you're using it right, and even if you are how are you going to tell that you're at 14ppm and not 6ppm?  This guy could be running his O2 tank WOT and just blasting it through the wort without any benefit.  It's kind of like carpentry.  You can have the nicest set of tools in the world, but if you have no skill...

I use O2 because I bought the set-up and I like it.  My most recent batches I used the old aquarium pump.  In truth, I'm not sure I really notice a difference but on larger beers I go with the O2 just because.

I do not have a flow meter.  I have no idea what level of dissolved O2 I'm achieving.  I could probably do just as well with a mix-stir, but I don't own one.  My beer comes out quite well, though I am not always 100% pleased with it.  However, my issues don't have anything to do with how the wort is oxygenated.

Last word - the stone on a stick is the only way to go.  As far as maintenance, it's minimal. 

1196
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Second pour always less carbed
« on: August 12, 2015, 08:42:50 AM »
The first pint will always have a bit more head because the beer will warm in the line causing the beer to shed gas. Probably it's just that; the carbonation should remain the same due to the pressure and temperature of your set-up.

This is your answer. If your lines were chilled as well as your kegs, all of the beer would pour the same.

I'm not sure this is 100% accurate.  I serve from picnic taps that are entirely inside the fridge with my kegs.  The first pour is always different due to the beer that is in the lines.  I don't know if the beer in the lines loses carbonation or what exactly happens, but the best approach for me is to clear the lines (drink or dump) and then pour.  After the lines are clear I will get a consistent pour.

I don't pour a pint every day (even not for several days) so my experience may be different from yours if your taps are in regular use.

1197
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Ageing times
« on: August 04, 2015, 07:51:55 PM »
I agree.  I don't even touch a beer like that for four weeks.  Then check gravity.  Then give it a week and check again.

Age it in the keg for as long as you can.  Taste it occasionally, or regularly.

I'm just now polishing off some old ale that's maybe from 2013 or so.  I wasn't so happy with it back then, or even back at Christmas.  But it's damn tasty now as the keg is running out.

1198
Have you reached out to the brewery?

Their Kolsch is reviewed on Beer Advocate and other sites and no one mentions that flavors that you experienced.

1199
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Stuck or Done?
« on: July 24, 2015, 07:45:39 AM »

3724 is what I used - thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep it warm and let it be. Upper 70's minimum, 80's preferred. It may take a few weeks, but it will finish.

+1.  I've got a batch with 3724 sitting at 86* for the last two weeks.  I'll check the gravity this weekend and see where it's at.  Hopefully, it's dropped from the stall at 1.014.

The batch with 3711 was done well over a week ago.

1200
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dripping beer faucet
« on: July 23, 2015, 11:06:30 AM »
Thanks.  I ordered a bunch seals for I think #4 and #10 earlier this week.  Along with the crazy wrench for taking off the collar.

I'll be tearing these down over the weekend, maybe.

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