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Messages - Joe Sr.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Westvleteren Beer Color
« on: June 10, 2015, 07:33:55 AM »
I believe sometimes it's Beet sugar but ultimately your assessment is accurate.

Beet sugar, cane sugar, whatever.  Once it's refined it's all just sucrose.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When can I test my s.g.?
« on: June 10, 2015, 07:10:41 AM »
As long as your sanitation is good, it shouldn't be an issue.

Personally, I would wait until signs of active fermentation have stopped.

If you think they are badly overcarbed and still carbing, you could open them to release pressure and recap them quickly.

Not an ideal solution, but better than bottle bombs.

If you do this, I'd make it a two person operation so they can be recapped as quickly as possible.  I don't think you need to take the cap off completely, just enough to release some pressure.

FTR-  I have never done this, but I've seen where others claim to have done so.

I know for sure that Victory uses a bottling yeast.  At least for Golden Monkey.  Same with Franziskaner.

There are a couple others I can't think of off the top of my head.

But, there are probably many many more that don't bother.

I've enjoyed a few bottle conditioned beers recently and was wondering if it's possible to cultivate the left over yeast. Is the yeast still viable after being conditioned in the bottle? How much leftover yeast would I need for a successful starter, if possible? I also wonder if the creation of CO2 by the yeast is enough to kill any existing yeast in the bottle.

This is pretty easy to do. Just make a very small starter 50-100ml and pour it in to the bottle after you have carefully poured out the beer and saved the yeast on the bottom. The biggest caveat is that many bottle conditioned beers use a different yeast at bottling for the carbonation, so you can't be sure that the yeast you are growing up are the same yeast that were used to create the beer in the first place.

This is all true.  There is a list on-line somewhere that someone put together of which beers use a bottling yeast and which don't.  Not sure it's 100% accurate, but for example Franziskaner bottles with a lager yeast.  You can culture it, but you won't get a wheat yeast.

Also, start with very low OG wort, be patient, and plan to step up several times. 

Served it on Saturday at a party.  The flavor is much improved.  What's left I will age for a bit.

T'was a rocking party until the waste stack burst.

Three or four guys with cups of 12% beer trying to figure out plumbing. 

We adjourned to elsewhere.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Green Beers
« on: June 05, 2015, 01:00:11 PM »
This, from an 1899 parliamentary investigation in to beer grists:

(a.) Stock ale, kept 4 to 12 months before delivery:—
Fine English malt - - 66 to 66
Fine foreign malt - - 25 to 34
No. 1 invert sugar or glucose - 9 to 0

(b.) Semi-stock pale bottling beers, kept about three months before delivery:-
Good to fine English malt - - -.,60
Good to fine foreign malt - - - 25
No. 2 invert sugar or glucose - - 15

(c.) Light pale ales (A.K.), kept about 2 to 4 weeks before delivery:—
Good to fine English malt - - -.,55
Good to fine foreign malt - - - 25
No. 2 invert sugar or glucose - - 20

(d.) Mild ale (X. or XX.—fourpenny) kept four to ten days before delivery :—
Good English malt - - - -50
Good ordinary foreign malt - - - 25
No. 2, invert or glucose - - - 25

The full post is here:

Dammit!  I've gone back down the rabbit hole.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Green Beers
« on: June 05, 2015, 12:34:04 PM »
The aging of traditional Brit IPAs was not to gain some benefit, it was the nature of transportation by ship.

True to some degree...but the fact is that in those days, many ales and most porters were intentionally and routinely long aged to benefit flavor, even for domestic use.

I'm curious enough about this to ask for your source.

I could be wrong, but I think Ron Pattinson covers this extensively in some of his posts at Shut up about Barclay Perkins.  His notates his sources pretty well.

My recollection is that the aged ales were also frequently blended back with fresher ales to get the benefit of the aged flavors.  But it's been awhile since I've dug in on his blog.  Good stuff over there.

EDIT: From a quick check over at Ron's site, stock and keeping ales were aged before sale.  Milds were sold unaged, "mild" having nothing to do with strength.  Like I said, good stuff over there.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Switching to O2
« on: June 05, 2015, 12:27:05 PM »
You want the bubbles to come out almost as slow as possible.  If it's bubbling out the top of the wort, then it's not going into solution.

I run mine for around 60 seconds or so.  I don't really time it. Bigger beers, I run longer than smaller beers.

My understanding is that it is extremely hard to over-oxygenate.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: kegerator bent freezer tray cover
« on: June 05, 2015, 06:52:02 AM »
I did the same thing you describe, years ago.

After bending the freezer portion down, the fridge never worked properly again.  It would cool when first turned on, but never cycle back on after it hit the set point.

It never made a whole lot of sense to me why it would not work, but it wasn't worth figuring out at the time.

If it's icing up as you describe, it sounds like either there's a kink in the lines restricting the flow of freon or something like that.  Or it's running too long and not cycling properly.

With these particular glass fermentors there has been an unusually high number of complaints about the glass cracking or breaking even from people who use other glass carboys. Apparently the glass is much thinner and some people have had them break just by placing them on the ground. It isn't just the use of glass but the use of glass that does not seem well designed for this purpose.

I wasn't aware of that.  Thanks for clarifying.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: harshness from keg hops
« on: June 03, 2015, 02:27:48 PM »
Rather than a sure screen, I've used a braided hose.  Like you would in a mash tun.

Same thing.  I had a dry hopped beer that was chunky.  I might have just tossed them in with no bag, I don't recall.  But it was like pouring a glass of hop matter.

Slipped the braided hose on the dip tube and all was good.

Yeah I don't know what they issue is or why NB/MW have selected a product clearly posing an unreasonable risk of injury through normal use.

What is the unreasonable risk of injury?  Glass breakage?  That's no different than any glass carboy.  And, while I no longer use glass, lots of people prefer it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 03, 2015, 10:22:27 AM »
I agree with Sean.  I store my yeast in exactly the fashion you are describing and regularly use slurries that are months old.  When they get beyond a yearI will typically toss them but more because that means its a strain I'm not using much than because I worry about sanitation or viability.

Make a starter.  Use a small amount and use some yeast nutrient.

I've found this approach works much better than trying to wake up the entire slurry.

There is no need to feed the yeast during storage and I would not recommend doing that.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low Attenuation/High Floc?
« on: June 03, 2015, 10:17:10 AM »
I'll give another vote to Windsor.  I will also second Mark's comment about Windsor/Nottingham working well together.

As far as 1968/002 being less attenuative, I know lots of people say it is but in my experience it attenuates quite well.  I wouldn't consider it as a low attenuator at all.

My recommendation would be to control the body/attenuation with your mash not with your yeast.  Yeast doesn't always do what you expect it to do.

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