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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1201
The Pub / Re: Kickstarter for bathroom remodel
« on: October 22, 2014, 06:35:03 PM »
It is a bad idea to sell your future production for discounted price in these fund raisers.

We're talking about a bathroom here, aren't we?  Future production...  I suppose you can sell that to someone.

1202
Pitch as much active yeast as possible since they are going into a hostile environment.  You want them working when they hit the beer so that they do as much as they can before they crap out.

I'm not sure I follow you're concern about aeration.  Are you worried about oxygen in the starter?

1203
And what to use when a recipe simply states "pale malt"

The answer is likely "it depends."  It depends on the style of beer and what you like.

Breiss 2-row will taste different from Rahr 2-row.

I'd go with the 2-row over the pale ale malt, generally.  If the receipe is for an English ale I might go with the pale ale malt, but in that case I'd likely go with Maris Otter.

Whichever you go with, take notes so that you know how to repeat or avoid what you did for the next batch.

1204
I don't think your fermentation is stuck...I think it's done.  That's why nothing you've tried has worked.  You could do a forced ferment test to confirm that.

I dunno.  If it's the same kit as the others, it should hit the same FG or close to it.  Is it the same kit?

I do agree that all extract, depending on the extract, could be done at 1.020.  Especially if it's dark extract with who knows what percentages of what in it.

Also, have to agree with Dave.  The temp drop probably stalled the yeast and it flocc'ed out and then you racked.  Throw some active yeast at it and see what happens.  Worst case is it's done.

1205
Beer Recipes / Re: Rye Bourbon barrel aged RIS
« on: October 22, 2014, 07:54:29 AM »
The bourbon will add some sweetness which should offset some of the bitterness.

But you'll also want to be sure the beer attenuates enough that the extra sweetness doesn't make it too sweet.

1206
Beer Recipes / Re: Rye Bourbon barrel aged RIS
« on: October 22, 2014, 07:33:10 AM »
If I were doing it, I would sub out some of the MO for sugar.  I think that with MO as your base and mashing at 156 you're going to have a beer that has sufficient body and the sugar should help it attenuate.

I would sub East Kent Goldings for the Fuggles at the end.  But I like Fuggles, too.  I just like EKG more as a finishing hop.  I think it's classically English if that's what you're going for.

I'm not familiar with 1028, so I can't comment there.

1207
The Pub / Re: Kickstarter for bathroom remodel
« on: October 22, 2014, 07:25:20 AM »
If I kick in funds, do I get unlimited usage rights?

1208
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sludge
« on: October 21, 2014, 02:14:38 PM »
Basic Brewing Radio did an experiment that concluded that the beers that had the trub left in turned out better.  Here's another...http://hbd.org/discus/messages/40327/41534.html

My bad, but that's not nearly convincing enough for me.

Well, then there's my own experience!

Mine, too.  Independently verified. 

I've never done a side-by-side but I don't intend to.  Not messing with what works.

1209
Kegging and Bottling / Re: kegging newbie question
« on: October 21, 2014, 12:28:00 PM »
For tanks, 5lb is pretty standard and a good place to start.  I have 5, 15 and 20lb tanks.  And a set up for paint ball CO2.  For me, the price to fill 5, 10 and 15 is the same.  20lb costs more to fill.

To fill bottles, I use a piece of racking cane and a drilled stopper.  I think it's a number two stopper.  Jam the cane into a picnic tap, push it into the bottle so the stopper seals, start filling, burp the stopper to release pressure as necessary.  If I'm bottling for competition or long term storage, I will flush the bottles with CO2 from a second tank (or a split line) using a pneumatic air gun and a hose.

1210
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sludge
« on: October 21, 2014, 06:49:35 AM »
I dump it all in.  I don't make an effort to get every last bit of trub into the fermenter, but I've given up on pouring it through a sieve.  I have had no issues with clarity, head retention, bitterness, etc.

My batches are partial mash, so perhaps I'm not getting as much trub as you might with a full all-grain batch.  But I am mashing 6-8lbs. of grain.  My hops go in hop bags.

1211
Equipment and Software / Re: Brew kettle issue
« on: October 17, 2014, 02:15:16 PM »
I've had the same thing with new kegs.  Just clean them before you use them and all is good.

1212
Kegging and Bottling / Re: b0ttle cap issues
« on: October 17, 2014, 07:55:53 AM »
Nothing is impossible.  Since I have at least four cappers, perhaps the wear and tear has been spread out.

1213
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: HELP: WLP540 Abbey IV Attenuation
« on: October 17, 2014, 07:54:39 AM »
I also start cultures from a bottle at 1.20 or so

This is exactly what I was thinking.  If I'm culturing from a bottle, I start low and step the gravity up with each successive step.  Same methodology as S. is talking about, and it works quite well.

1214
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: HELP: WLP540 Abbey IV Attenuation
« on: October 17, 2014, 07:16:38 AM »
If you start chilling you likely won't go any lower.  If you're happy with 1.021 that's fine, but if you think it should be lower I would just wait.

I've left big beers for two months to reach terminal gravity.   Sometimes you just have to be patient.

1215
Kegging and Bottling / Re: b0ttle cap issues
« on: October 17, 2014, 07:14:39 AM »
What bottles are using? I find certain bottles cap better than others.

This is so true and I'd bet this is where the problem lies.  I find that Goose Island bottles have an odd shaped neck and don't cap as well as most other standard bottles.

I have a number of cappers acquired over the years and if a bottle doesn't seem to seal right, I'll go to another capper for the second crimp.  My cappers are from the 90s.  I don't think something so simple wears out.

Mostly, I just weed out the bottles that have the odd shapes/sizes.

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