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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1276
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for English styles
« on: September 22, 2014, 11:32:13 AM »
When I think Munton's I think of the little foil packet that used to come with cans of extract back in the 90s, stamped with "ale yeast" or something like that.

But I know that we are worlds away from those days.

1277
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for English styles
« on: September 21, 2014, 09:23:32 AM »
I have done the Windsor+Nottingham combo and found that it worked well.


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1278
Ingredients / Re: maris otter
« on: September 20, 2014, 07:59:23 PM »
I love MO and use a lot of it.  I brew a lot of English style ales and its perfect for that.

I have to agree that it's style dependent, though.  Experimentation is great, but I wouldn't use it to replace Pils malt.  I also don't think I'd use it if I was going for an American ale, but it could work.

Warm and fuzzy = mold.

1279
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for English styles
« on: September 20, 2014, 07:52:02 PM »
I don't like Notty.  I get a weird tartness from it in lower gravity beers.

Side by side with WY 1968 (I know, not dry) it has that weird tartness in lower gravity beers, but oddly I like it better in higher gravity beers.

Notty performs well, no argument there.  I just don't think its as clean as people say and I don't care for the characteristic flavor.

I've not used s-04, but I've stocked it as a replacement for Notty.

I've had no bad experiences with Windsor.  Doesn't attenuate as well, IIRC.

1280
With a big beer, I think you need to be patient.  6 days is nothing.  Wait a couple weeks, there is no harm in that.

I have a RIS that's sitting for about a month now in primary.  I keep intending to check the gravity, but I'm not worried about it waiting.  Maybe next week.

1281
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Unrefrigerated Wyeast Pack
« on: September 20, 2014, 07:37:01 PM »
IMO yeast are more resilient than we give them credit for.

3711 is a beast.  I'm sure it will be fine.


1282
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: need advise on grains
« on: September 06, 2014, 11:33:01 AM »
If you're looking to convert to grains i'd go with 9lbs of grain if it's LME and 8 if it's DME.

My guess is amber extract has some crystal malt in it.

I'd start with 2-row and add specialty grains for the color and flavor you're looking for.


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1283
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: All Grain to Extract Success Stories
« on: September 05, 2014, 06:56:43 AM »
I just use a big grain bag (5 gallon paint strainer bag) and put it into the kettle when the water hits 165 or so.

No false bottom.  I don't typically re-heat the kettle, but sometimes I do.

I'm sure there are better methods.  My efficiency is not great, but it is consistent.

1284
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: All Grain to Extract Success Stories
« on: September 04, 2014, 06:58:04 AM »
I don't know that oats (and flaked corn, polenta, etc.) have the diastatic power to convert on their own so the benefit of steeping them may be limited.  Perhaps you get some flavor.

A steep of 30 minutes at 160F is so close to a mash that I'd just go ahead and add base malts and extend the time by 30 minutes.  There are some (Dtaylor, IIRC) who have run experiments and report that you can get full conversion in 30 - 45 minutes, so you're pretty much there already.

If you're steeping a bunch of grains with lower diastatic power, I just don't see why you wouldn't throw in some base grain.  I use 5 gallon paint strainer bags and can easily mash 6 to 7 lbs of grain in the bag on my stove top.

1285
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Foamy Beer in Keg
« on: August 26, 2014, 09:42:25 AM »
Try pulling the dip tube and putting a screen over it. Some people use stainless scrubbers. I have a braided hose I've used.

This way you won't risk oxidation from transferring.


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1286
Ingredients / Re: Briess Malts
« on: August 22, 2014, 01:56:58 PM »
Glad I'm not the only one who keeps a pound of fuggles in the freezer.


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1287
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Foamy Beer in Keg
« on: August 21, 2014, 03:01:23 PM »
If you disassembled and reassembled the keg, sometimes the dip tube will spin and push up against the wall of the keg when you reassemble.  Assuming you have one of the dip tubes with a bend in it.

I'll second re-seating the disconnect.  That worked for me last weekend.

I've also in the past put a stainless braid over the end of the dip tube for a batch that just kept clogging.  I can't remember which batch, but it was the only way to get a good pour.

1288
Weaker/thinner glass, not intended for reuse (though what is these days).  They won't hold up to the same pressure that pry-off bottles will/should.  But I've also had some pretty thin pry-off bottles.

I've got a couple twist offs in amongst all my bottles that have been reused many times over the years.  I crimp new caps on them and they work just fine.  I think if you have problems it will be from reusing the old cap.

1289
Equipment and Software / Re: Bottling under pressure from a gallon jug
« on: August 20, 2014, 10:14:47 AM »
I also made a bottle holder out of scrap wood with a hole saw and I can fill several without the worry of knocking any over.

Nice.  I like that idea.

As far as pressurizing the container, I've found that my aquarium pump aerator works pretty well.

I often use CO2 but even at very low pressure it seems to push out the punt on the bottom of my Better Bottles.

1290
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Choosing a house yeast
« on: August 19, 2014, 01:03:52 PM »
If you don't make many high ABV beers, WLP002/WY1968/S04 is perfect for most American and English styles (also ciders)

I use 1968 in my high ABV old ale with great success.  I've also used it in an imperial stout.  It's regularly taken both these beers from >1.09 to <1.02.

Treated right, it does just fine with high OGs.  Big pitch, good aeration, good fermentation temps.

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