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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1381
The Pub / Re: I now officially hate UPS
« on: October 15, 2014, 09:22:29 AM »
It could violate laws in some states, which is why I think the companies try to avoid it.

I don't see how me shipping to you should be an issue.  I do know that some states prohibit out-of-state retail shipments, but I think that's a different animal.

1382
Zymurgy / Re: Haven't Rcvd a Zymurgy Mag yet
« on: October 14, 2014, 02:43:15 PM »
You should have access to the e-version regardless.

I haven't checked it out in awhile, but I do recall having some issues logging in.  I think you need to establish a user ID on the AHA main page, and not just on the forum.

1383
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Ever have a keg post leak?
« on: October 13, 2014, 03:46:17 PM »
Funny thing.  I realized over the weekend that I have a keg where beer won't pour when it is over-pressurized.  You get a real slow drip.  Bleed off the pressure and it pours just fine.

I'm not talking about good pour vs. bad pour.  This is no pour or pour.

These old kegs sometimes are quirky.

1384
All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB grain bill question
« on: October 09, 2014, 06:12:13 PM »
Dave, what volume do you sparge with?

I do partial mash batches with BIAB for my mash and get low (50%) but consistent efficiency.  I'd like to improve it, and will likely buy a mill so I can crush as fine as I like.

1385
Going Pro / Re: Possibly stupid question about natural gas
« on: October 09, 2014, 09:50:22 AM »
This freaking process is unbelievable… The utility won't give us an estimate on running new gas and electric without plans drawn up by a licensed architect, the architect can't do the drawings without knowing which service(s) each piece of equipment will use, and I can't make an educated decision on that without knowing what it will cost to run the services. ::)

It's a good thing I don't have to worry about losing my hair over this…

IME, the utility shouldn't need drawings but they will need load calcs and/or a list of your equipment.  We typically start out with what we want and if the cost of service is too much, we back down from there.  I'm generally dealing with electric service, but I believe the same iterative process works with gas service.  What you intend to use will drive the size of the service.  On bigger buildings, that may change the entry point for the gas or water line depending on which adjacent street has the main that can provide the size of service we need.

Regardless, you should give the architect your ideal list of equipment.  He can calculate the gas service you need and/or pass that list on to the utility to do so.  The utility can tell you if what you need is available at that location.  If not, or if too expensive, alter your plans.

My final piece of advice on utilities, based on experience, is that ideally you want to stay within the parameters of the service that they already have available.  Second best is to stay within what they are REQUIRED to provide to new users.  Sometimes existing facilities don't match current requirements. 

If they need to bring new service it is #1 expensive and #2 puts you at the mercy of their scheduling.  Utilities are not known for keeping to schedule nor for staying within budget.

1386
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: overpitching and attenuation ?
« on: October 09, 2014, 08:29:50 AM »
I use 1968 all the time and have no issues with attenuation.

Last batch, it was showing signs of fermentation within four hours or so and attenuated very well.  I doubt I've ever over-pitched it but I've probably under-pitched it.  I find it to be very consistent regardless.

I do as Mort suggests and raise the temp after a few days which I believe helps with attenuation and prevents the yeast from floccing out as fermentation slows down.

Are you using other strains and not having this problem?

1387
With bigger beers in particular I think allowing fermentation to warm up towards the end is important to get the attenuation you're looking for.

Lately, I've been fermenting at approx 60 for about a week and then bringing the fermenter out to let it rise.  Usually peaks at 68, maybe low 70s depending on the outside temp.

1388
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Force carb vs Keg conditioned
« on: October 08, 2014, 11:52:11 AM »
Properly applied CO2 from a tank, allowed to fully dissolve into the beer, will be indistinguishable from any other source.

Have you tried a blind triangle on beers carbed each way, say 2 months after carbonation?

IMO, the "properly dissolved" and "two months" parts of your statements are the key.  I think that with shaking to carbonate (and perhaps force carbonating in general), people expect that they will have a perfect pour almost immediately and when they don't they compare it to bottle carbed beers that have been sitting for much longer without considering the time difference.

Naturally carbonating your beers forces a degree of patience that often gets overlooked when force carbonating.

1389
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Ever have a keg post leak?
« on: October 08, 2014, 10:35:56 AM »
Weird.  I have a post that is missing a chunk of the top, like someone bit off a small piece of the flat part that holds the o-ring in place.  It works just fine.

It almost sounds like for some reason your QD isn't fitting down far enough on the post.

Is this a new-to-you keg?

I had a new-to-me keg post leak over the weekend (just star san) but an extra o-ring on the dip tube solved that leak.  Completely unhelpful in your case, though.

1390
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 Tank Size
« on: October 08, 2014, 10:29:40 AM »
I have 2 tens and a five.  I may get a 20, but like Jim says - one leak would make me reconsider the choice.   

I think locally 20lb fills are the same as 5,10, 15.  It may be that 15 is the break-point though.  I thought a couple of my tanks were 25lb, but I can't find the invoice to check.

Regardless, more gas for the same price is the best way to go in my opinion.

What fries my ass is that they want $10 to refill a paint ball container.  No way.  I believe Dick's does it for $3.

1391
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best vessel to dry hop in?
« on: October 04, 2014, 02:31:23 PM »
Never tried rinsing. Never worried about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1392
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best vessel to dry hop in?
« on: October 04, 2014, 07:18:45 AM »
I use pellets when I dry hop.  They go into a stainless tea infuser.  Not too much gets through the mesh, but you will get haze.  If the keg has settled the first few pours might have hop material.

I'll transfer to another keg for serving if clarity is a concern.

1393
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Manhattan Quad - Please offer advice
« on: October 03, 2014, 03:01:39 PM »
I'd lose the wheat and bump the Munich up to a lb.

You're so down on wheat in quads.  But I think I agree with you.  I'm not sure what the wheat brings to the table in this beer.

1394
Ingredients / Re: English Barleywine
« on: October 03, 2014, 09:05:45 AM »
I recommend a big pitch of 1968.  I can't get enough of that yeast.

It performs very well for me in big beers and just took a RIS down from 1.094 to 1.020.  Tastes great now, but needs to age.

1395
Beer Recipes / Re: New Recipe for Belgian Quad Ale - Please Critique
« on: October 03, 2014, 07:27:41 AM »
That's a good point, but I the inspiration was to brew a beer with honey, figs, etc.  So leaving it out might not fit the OPs goal.

You could add it late, or even to the secondary to preserve as much honey flavor and aromatics as possible.

Or maybe use sugar and a little honey malt.  I'm not sure that honey malt = honey flavor though.

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