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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1441
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Goose Island beer
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:50:40 AM »
We've started getting Goose Island in the past few months. I like a lot of the beers and they aren't showing up in poor quality. We're not getting BCS or either Pepe beers but I'm hopeful it will show eventually.

Pepe Nero has to be the nastiest beer I ever tasted.  Or close to it.

1442
Equipment and Software / Re: O2 regulator noise
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:31:50 AM »
Used mine last night.  I can hear the gas being released, but it does not whistle.

If it's really audible, I'd follow up with William's and see what they say.  I've found their customer service to be great.

1443
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Pin lock VS Ball Lock
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:18:06 AM »
Of course, you can also get converted pin locks.  Ball lock connections, pin lock dimensions.  I see these more and more.

I like my 3 gallon kegs, but the price of those things is crazy.  You can get two 5 gallons for the same price, even on fleaBay.

For me, the wider dimensions of the pin lock kegs is the deal breaker.  I can just barely fit two ball locks in my Sanyo mini fridge.  I don't think I could do two pins.

You know what that means? Time to stock up! :)

I really don't need more, but I keep cruising eBay and Craigslist looking for deal... $50 is looking like a deal these days.

1444
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Goose Island beer
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:07:18 AM »
Love their Pere Jacques and drank a 750 while brewing yesterday.  Of course, I added 1.5 lbs of sugar to the wrong kettle...

I've been drinking their beer pretty much since they opened.  Their growlers are a great deal and they give the AHA discount without question.  The brew pub always has a variety of stuff they don't bottle.

1445
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: British Yeast Recommendation
« on: May 13, 2013, 06:57:40 AM »
I pitched 1968 in a stout last night and it's rocking this morning!

I grew the starter up from some slurry from last November.  Love that yeast!

1446
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Drinking while brewing
« on: May 11, 2013, 09:26:53 AM »
I think it kinda depends on your definition of "work"  Ferment wort, yes.  Make good beer, probably not.

And that depends on you definition of "good."

1447
The Pub / Re: A bomber is rarely a good deal
« on: May 11, 2013, 09:26:08 AM »
Joe, I am not sure I can help you. You are very confused. Buying one 12 ounce bottle is not even close to the same thing as buying a six pack.  I am talking about buying ONE 12 ounce bottle of beer vs ONE 22 ounce bottle of beer.  NOT six packs, twelve packs or even cases of 12 ounce beers. JUST ONE BEER.

But that's EXACTLY what the original post is about.  With pictures.

I can buy single bottles, just like Sean is saying, in a make-your-own six pack deal.  I've not checked those prices but if it makes you happy, I will do so and post back.

I honestly can't figure out what your trying to say, but simply repeating it doesn't prove your point.  Give some examples.  Arguments backed by evidence are much stronger.

1448
The Pub / Re: A bomber is rarely a good deal
« on: May 11, 2013, 08:13:32 AM »
Show me a brewery selling 12ouncers for a better deal than bombers, then you have an article.

I don't get it. The most I've seen a 6-pack of beer go for is roughly $15, which works out to $4.58 for a 22 fl oz bomber. At least around here, bombers bottom out at $4.99, so the same beer in a 6-pack is always going to be cheaper, per unit volume.

A 6-pack is not 12 ounces its 72. Yes as you go up in volume,  price goes down per unit volume. If the brewery sold you a 12 ounce beer for a better deal than the 22 ounce bomber, the bomber would never sell and cease to exist.  IME you can get a 6 pack for about the same a 2 bombers. Bombers are a really bad deal.

Neither the math nor the article you are challenging are in disagreement with your latest statement.  Although you seem to be saying both that bombers are cheaper or they wouldn't sell and also that they are a bad deal.

If Sean believed a 6-pack was 12 oz, the math above would be over $1 per oz with an equivalent bomber price around $25.

If I'm misunderstanding that you are now in agreement with us, then please post something to support what appears to be your previous contention that 12 oz bottles are more than 22 oz bombers on a per ounce basis.

1449
Equipment and Software / Re: Mesh bags for hops?
« on: May 10, 2013, 11:47:15 AM »
I've never melted a bag in 20 years of using them.

I've tied them off to the pot handles, tied the to spoons laid across the pot, clipped them to the side, etc.  Everything but the hop spider.

If you use the muslin bags they let a lot of hop material through into the wort.

I've heard/seen people claim that the bags can reduce hop utilization by 10%.  I have no idea if that's true.  I have no problem making hoppy beers when I want them.

1450
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Handle on 20 LB CO2
« on: May 10, 2013, 10:10:39 AM »
I have too many tanks so I don't go too often.  The last couple times I went, I had to get tanks recertified so it was around $40 for the fill and recert.  The fill itself was only $20+/- a couple dollars.

Maybe $50 includes recert?

1451
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Looking for experience
« on: May 10, 2013, 08:15:59 AM »
I bought a Jak Pak, which is supposed to be used as for portability of pneumatic tools.  It fits paint ball tanks and has a regulator.  I have never actually used it, since I can't get paint ball tanks filled in the city.

I have all my lines set up with quick disconnects, so my plan is to do the same with the Jak Pak so that I can change out whatever fitting I need on the line.

I think it was like $40 on ebay, which is a deal compared to the Leland regulators you can get at some on-line homebrew places.

1452
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison help
« on: May 10, 2013, 07:30:38 AM »
3724 is very finicky in my experience.  It's been years since I've used it simply because I've always had a hard time getting it to finish.  I don't have a reliable way to warm the fermenter to bring the temp up at the end, which may be my problem with this yeast.  Once it stalls, it takes forever to finish.

I've recently used 3711 and my experience (one batch) is that it is important to raise the temp to get it to finish.  I had it in the low 60s and it seemed to stall.  I moved it to a warmer location, roused the yeast and was able to get it up to 70 and it finished nicely.

T-58 does not seem to be so temperature sensitive.

Of course, none of these are the White Labs strains so there may be some variation in performance.

1453
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Drinking while brewing
« on: May 10, 2013, 06:56:31 AM »
seems like a few of you are not very well functioning drunks. Just sayin'.

Yeah, I'm trying to figure this out myself. Brew day is usually 5 to 6 hours....A beer an hour can't hurt you... well at least it doesn't affect me too much. The only thing that I ever forget on a regular basis is whirlfloc. I have started to add a 10-15 minute hop addition, so I add my tab to that baggie.

The two things I always forget, regardless of consumption, are Irish moss and yeast nutrient.  I suppose I should add them to my recipe so I remember. I'm very much a list person.  If it's not on the list, I'm likely to forget it.

1454
Equipment and Software / Re: PBW
« on: May 10, 2013, 06:53:34 AM »
My LHBS has a Better Bottle on display with a crack at the bottom where the wall meets the bottom.  The crack apparently was due to chemical stress or some other environmental stress fracture.  It has a sign on it reminding you not to store chemicals (PBW, StarSan, etc.) for extended amounts of time; just clean and sanitize and get the chemicals out and let it dry.  Always put water in first, then the chemicals, etc.  I know I get lazy and let my carboy sit for days with PBW until I get around to cleaning it.  I guess if I ever replace them with Better Bottles I will have to make sure I am careful about that.

I've let mine sit and soak for days on end with no ill effects.   I am not using PBW, so maybe that's the difference.  I dunno.  I've had nothing but good with my BBs.

Ya know, I've heard that bacteria thing or years and I think it's hooey.  Not only have I never had a problem, but I have a hard time imagining bacteria could hide somewhere that PBW and StarSan couldn't get to.

I agree with this.  I've got one BB where I did not treat it quite right at first and I know it has scratches from a carboy brush.  With good sanititation, I've had no issues fermenting in it.

I did have one infected batch a couple of years ago, but I'm not certain it was this fermenter and one bad batch out of many is not enough for me to toss the fermenter.

1455
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling for Competitions?
« on: May 09, 2013, 01:26:11 PM »
Carb tabs can work just fine.  I've used just about all of the brands out there and there is some variation in consistency, but they all work.

The Munton's product left weird waxy floaty things in my beer, so I stopped using those.  From what I've read on forums from that time it was bad batch and they supposedly fixed the problem.

I don't submit to competitions, so I can't give you any feedback on that. 

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