Messages

1471

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Universal Poppet O-ring

« on: April 20, 2015, 08:01:46 PM »

I'd probably just buy a new poppet, to be honest. I do really like the universals, have them for all my kegs.

Meh.  I disagree.  I have extras, so it's not an immediate concern, but clearly the rubber part will wear out.  Those springs look like they'll never wear out.  Why toss the poppet rather than replace the o-ring?

For less than $5 for 100 o-rings it's worth it even if I just toss them into the tool box.

One of the other poppets is going to need an o-ring eventually.

1472

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Universal Poppet O-ring

« on: April 20, 2015, 04:47:56 PM »

Cool.  Thanks.

Of course, what will I do with 100?  But I'll probably get them nonetheless.

1473

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC 2015 First Round Results

« on: April 20, 2015, 04:07:02 PM »

Chicago took forever last year, too.

The results must be scrootin'd.  It's Chicago, after all.

1474

Kegging and Bottling / Universal Poppet O-ring

« on: April 20, 2015, 03:49:56 PM »

I had one of these tear recently.  They are theoretically replaceable.

Anyone know where to get them in bulk?  I've seen a couple on-line vendors selling them individually for $0.10 or $0.15, but I don't want to place an order for less than $1.

Anyone know a McMaster Carr part #?

1475

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Question About Beer CO2 Absorption

« on: April 20, 2015, 03:37:59 PM »

I have a keg with a bad popette (yes I should replace it and I even have the new piece, just haven't done it yet) when I remove the gas QD it starts losing gas through the post. I can jimmy with the popette and it stops but I don't trust that keg for long term storage. You could well have a popette with a slow leak. it wouldn't show up while the gas was connected.

I've fixed this on a couple kegs recently, and it can be a sneaky problem.  On one of the fixes, the o-ring on the universal poppet was torn, so I replaced the problem with the same problem.  Drove me a little crazy.

I also believe that if the keg has relatively low pressure already and then you chill it, you can lose the seal on your lid.  That's my theory, anyway.  I've moved kegs to the fridge and had them seem like they have no head pressure once they chill.  Well carbed, but no pressure.

1476

Equipment and Software / Re: Burner for anniversary

« on: April 17, 2015, 08:46:48 PM »

Is that copper on the legs?

From the Northern Brewer site, Question and Answer section:

"The copper pieces on the Bru Burner are copper plated, not painted"

So not solid copper but not painted either.  Either way, its a think of beauty.

Paul

That's good. You wouldn't want all that weight on solid copper

Shoot, if it was solid copper the scrap metal guys would strip it before the water came to a boil.

1477

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Why are corny keg posts different? Why not switch them to all liquid posts?

« on: April 16, 2015, 07:22:06 PM »

I know that the corny keg posts are different, but I don't know why it was ever setup this way. Most kegs are labeled inlet and outlet so you can tell which post/disconnect belongs where, but I don't know why.

Of the four kegs I have I am 99.999% sure there are no labels on the kegs identifying which post is which and even if there were labels there is always the chance that after cleaning I accidentally reverse the tubes.

Most of my kegs are scribed "in" on the gas side.  Not all.  Others have a bump or a divot on the rubber handle.  I assume the bump means "out" and the divot means "in" but I've not tested that theory since it just came to me as I was typing this.

1478

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: S#!T customer service with Better Bottle

« on: April 16, 2015, 07:09:33 PM »

I've been using Oxyclean on my better bottles for years with no problems (and some soaks have been weeks) but I don't use any of the accessories.

Competitor to BB?  Just about everyone offers a BB-like fermenter these days, including Northern Brewer who has one with a wide opening. 

Sorry for your frustration.

My experience is the same as yours.  Long soaks, no problems.  No pbw, but I soak with oxy clean and cascade.

Looking at the NB "Bubbler" I have to think that whatever patent Better Bottle had has expired.  The Bubbler is the same exact thing.

1479

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: almost a lost year brewing

« on: April 15, 2015, 04:03:48 PM »

It sounds like you've been pretty thorough in chasing this down.  I think you've gotten some good advice here, but you may have exhausted almost everything we can offer.  Trying to diagnose the problem without seeing, tasting, and smelling the problem is near impossible.

I say it comes down to a process of elimination.  What remains consistent amongst all the batches that have been contaminated?  It sounds like two things: 1) the brewing/fermenting location and 2) the equipment.

Change one or the other.  Then change the other.

I would recommend brewing small batches for these tests, if you can, to save money and heartache.

1480

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: almost a lost year brewing

« on: April 13, 2015, 08:37:17 PM »

Unless, Lars has recontaminated the equipment during the replacement process...

Right.  But then there is something in his process that is introducing the contamination.  It is not (at least initially) resident in the equipment.

1481

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC 2015 First Round Results

« on: April 13, 2015, 08:08:55 PM »

I know I got one through in Chicago. I also know that 3 of them didn't make it through. Still waiting to  hear on the stout, though. The placing RIS's close to my own, but I think one of them belonged to the coordinator. Of course, I'll just have to wait for confirmation!

Nice.  I hope one of the other stouts is my own.

1482

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: almost a lost year brewing

« on: April 13, 2015, 08:00:19 PM »

Do you filter your water?

Yes, I do

Do you do a full boil?  I didn't see that in the earlier posts.  If not, do you boil your top-up water?

It looks like you've replaced most of your equipment and still have the problem.  So the problem is likely something in your process.

Maybe try a small batch with bottled water.

1483

The Pub / Re: Sourcing ingredients post apocalypse

« on: April 06, 2015, 11:14:20 PM »

I think cider will become the drink of choice.  Much easier to source and make.

I've got booze for at least a month or more in the cellar.  Ammo?  Not so much. 

1484

All Grain Brewing / Re: Boil Vapors = Bad?

« on: March 27, 2015, 08:02:21 PM »

I'm casting a personal preference to go out in a vat of Pappy (any of them) or Lagavulin 16.  Though I suppose I could be talked into buying it in a vat of Rochefort 10.   

Wouldn't a vat of Pappy really just be a vat of pre-barrelled Weller?  I'm ok with it either way, but if it's a vat of Pappy I want it to be a slow death so I can enjoy it.

Yeah, that's what I've heard. Definitely needs to be a slow demise. Like a week or more.

I think I could manage to slip and fall in while wearing a flotation device.  And carrying a glencairn glass.

Yeah, a heavy guage inner tube with a backup air compressor. And the glass.

I'll meet you at Buffalo Trace.  I'll be the guy in the life vest.  Pretend you don't know me.  I'll pull you in when you try to "save" me.

1485

All Grain Brewing / Re: Boil Vapors = Bad?

« on: March 27, 2015, 07:27:49 PM »

I'm casting a personal preference to go out in a vat of Pappy (any of them) or Lagavulin 16.  Though I suppose I could be talked into buying it in a vat of Rochefort 10.   

Wouldn't a vat of Pappy really just be a vat of pre-barrelled Weller?  I'm ok with it either way, but if it's a vat of Pappy I want it to be a slow death so I can enjoy it.

Yeah, that's what I've heard. Definitely needs to be a slow demise. Like a week or more.

I think I could manage to slip and fall in while wearing a flotation device.  And carrying a glencairn glass.