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Messages - Joe Sr.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Secondary Fermentation
« on: November 09, 2017, 09:12:42 AM »
Here's the list I found:

62% 6.6 Liquid Malt Extract - Dark - 18° Extract
19% 2 Dry Malt Extract - Dark - 18° Extract
5% 0.5 Maltodextrin - US 39 0° Extract
5% 0.5 Caramel/Crystal 60  60° Steep
5% 0.5 Roasted Barley  300° Steep
5% 0.5 Black Patent Malt  500° Steep
1 Northern Brewer  Pellet Boil 60 minutes
0.5 Northern Brewer  Pellet Boil 45 minutes

1.Steep Grains with 2.5 gallons of water @ 150-165 for 20 minutes
2.Boil wort with LME, DME, and Maltodextrin @ 60
3.1oz Northern Brewer @ 60
4..5oz Northern Brewer @ 45
5.Cool wort, transfer, add water to make 5 gallons
6.Pitch Yeast (do not rehydrate)
7.Primary Fermentation @ 64-72 for 5-7 days
8.Secondary Fermentation for 2 weeks
9.Bottle with 3.5oz priming sugar into 2 cups water (boiled for 5 minutes)

With all that dark extract plus maltodextrin, that looks like something that could end up pretty sweet.  Which could be OK for the style.  Personally, I would add a half pound of sugar (or substitute it for a half pound of the dry extract) to try to have a lower FG than you're likely to get otherwise.

But if you want to keep it simple and stick to the recipe there's no harm in that.  Particularly for one of your first brews.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Secondary Fermentation
« on: November 08, 2017, 03:44:39 PM »
That is my next question for the Russian Imperial Stout kit from Brewers Best.
The packet of yeast says do not rehydrate.
What is the best approach?
Pitch the yeast or follow the directions?

Can you also post the recipe for the kit?  If it's all extract, we may have recommendations on simple steps that will improve your fermentation and make sure that an all-extract big beer does not stall out or end with a super sweet high final gravity.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Soy sauce stout
« on: November 08, 2017, 03:39:58 PM »
Soy sauce and kibble are big beer (High OG) oxidation flavors, homies.

I ran oxygen for about 30 seconds.
I am new to pure oxygen, typically I used to shake the carboy. I have also been nervous about using oxygen because I didn't want to eff up a beer, but I used the same amount of oxygen on a 10% wee heavy and the beer taste fine.

Typically how long should I oxygenate for if you think oxygen is part of the issue, I've read 30-60 seconds and plan to stick to thwith lower side of the timeline when I brew.

He's talking oxidation, not oxygenation.  60 seconds of oxygen pre-fermentation (oxygenation) is fine.  Exposure to oxygen post-fermentation (oxidation) can stale your beer or cause off flavors.

IME, it would be pretty hard for the beer to get badly oxidized in the primary fermenter.  How much splashing was there when you transferred to secondary?  You could oxidize there, but I don't know how quickly that would change the flavor to soy sauce.  I've seen oxidation change a beer's color pretty quickly, though.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: brewers best russian imperial stout
« on: November 08, 2017, 12:05:04 PM »
Or calculate it based on volume and recipe

Sure, if it's 100% extract.  Partial mash would be hard to be certain without a measurement.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: brewers best russian imperial stout
« on: November 08, 2017, 11:43:50 AM »
Also, if you did a partial boil and added water to top off, it's likely you didn't get an accurate OG measurement.

This is true.  After years of frustration, I determined the best way for a partial boil OG is to take the measurement prior to topping up and then add the amount of water you need to get to your target gravity.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: brewers best russian imperial stout
« on: November 08, 2017, 10:01:06 AM »
Was this an extract kit?  Dark extracts can have a lot of unfermentables in them.

If you want to be patient, give it another week or so.  Swirl the fermenter gently to rouse the yeast and warm it up a bit.  You may get a little more attenuation.

Beer Recipes / Re: Holiday porter
« on: November 04, 2017, 08:04:35 PM »
One way to do it is to make a tincture of the spices in vodka and then add to taste. It has been years since I have made a spiced ale so I don't have amounts handy. I would go easy on the clove.  Orange peel I have always added to the boil and it adds bitterness.  Coriander will and an orange flavor in my experience.

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The Pub / Re: Checking In
« on: November 04, 2017, 07:14:04 PM »
Good to hear from you Jim.

I bought my salmon stamp for the second year in a row an just can't get out to the lake.

Maybe a good thing as the fishermen in the lagoon found a couple duffle bags full of someone last week. Glad that wasn't me. In the bag or finding it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Darkening Malt
« on: October 20, 2017, 08:42:22 AM »
Wouldn't sinamar be what you want for darkening with no flavor?

I'm not positive, since I never used it, but I thought it's supposed to be flavor neutral.

Other Fermentables / Re: Cider questions
« on: October 13, 2017, 09:33:41 AM »
Sugar in the starter?  I don't see how that would help.  You want healthy yeast from a starter, not high alcohol.

As far as ciders, the simple sugars typically ferment out leaving you with the low FG and a tart cider.  You can backsweeten, but need to add sorbate or pasteurize somehow to kill the yeast or it will keep eating the sugar.

Keep adding sugar, and you'll wind up with AppleJack or something like that.

I understand, though I've never done it, that there are also ways to stop fermentation early, leaving the cider sweeter.  But these are not necessarily fool proof.

Other Fermentables / Re: Cider questions
« on: October 13, 2017, 08:26:58 AM »
"More like wine" in what sense?  In the fermentation?  Flavor-wise, I find it comes out very tart which is not at all what I look for in wine.

When I've made cider, I get about an inch of gunk on top so there is something like a krausen, just not nearly as much as with beer.

As for yeast, I thought Nottingham made the best cider out of the yeasts I tried.  I don't recall if I used Cote de Blanc.  I know I used a wine yeast and a champagne yeast and maybe also US-05.

Cider is not my thing.  Which is sad to learn after you ferment out about 20 gallons or so.

Equipment and Software / Re: Barley Crusher Revolutions per Pound
« on: October 12, 2017, 09:41:29 AM »
Dewalt made drills so I won't have to...

But, good to know, I guess, if I ever plan to mill by hand.  I would assume the number is variable based on mill gap and a million other variables (grain type, moisture content, etc. etc etc).

Equipment and Software / Re: Barley Crusher Revolutions per Pound
« on: October 11, 2017, 02:30:07 PM »
I'll keep that in mind....;)

It has already left mine.

I'd say there's no reason not to use as much as you can within equipment limitations. It'll be less expensive and arguably improve quality.

This is your answer.  I would add that, when I have done it (and if I do it again) all of my specialty grains go into the mini-mash, so you need enough base grain to convert those.  The extract is there to get the gravity up to where I want it and I use the lightest possible dry extract (Breiss Pilsen, IME).

I think vinegar and bleach = toxic gas.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I wouldn't mix the two.

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