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Messages - Joe Sr.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry Yeast for a Belgian Dubbel
« on: July 18, 2013, 10:17:49 AM »
I have a dubbel with 1214 finishing right now.  Pitched in low 60s, let it go up to 68 and held for three days before taking it out and turning it loose.  It's at 72 right now, which is as high as it went.

I'm going to pull a sample tonight to see if it's finished.  I'm expecting banana, but we'll see.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry Yeast for a Belgian Dubbel
« on: July 18, 2013, 09:32:32 AM »
Just to add, the dry Belgian yeasts always taste so phenolic. All band aid no fruit not awful, but not great. that's my experience anyway.

This has been my experience as well.  I have also had issues with WLP500 with this phenolic taste when fermented in the low 60s.  It does fade with age somewhat though.

Interesting. I seem to have the other problem with that strain. Too much bubble gum.

I get bubblegum at higher temps.

I've gotten banana at higher temps.  But that's with 1214, not WLP500.  Supposed to be the same strain, IIRC.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry Yeast for a Belgian Dubbel
« on: July 18, 2013, 07:52:28 AM »
I have decided to split the batch and try at least two yeasts. Half the fun of making beer is experimentation.

This is the way to go.  I have done this many times.  I think you'll be surprised by the differences.  I always am.

IMO this is the best way to determine your own personal favorite yeasts for a style.

As far as the dry yeasts, the only one I've tried is T-58 in a small Sorachi Ace saison.  It's OK, not awesome.  I'm not sure how much of that is the yeast and how much the hops as it's my first time using each.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry Yeast for a Belgian Dubbel
« on: July 17, 2013, 01:49:25 PM »
Personally, I would use WY3787, 1214 or similar, and you'll have a more accurate end result.

Agreed.  I prefer 3787 for dubbel and tripel.

I like 1214 for a dubbel.  Not sure I've ever done 3787 in a dubbel, but it does make a nice tripel.

To be honest, I've not used a Belgian yeast that I have disliked.  Some I like more than others, but none I do not like.

Mangrove Jack makes a dry Belgian, but it sounds more like a saison yeast from the description.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Uh oh, didn't mix yeast well.
« on: July 17, 2013, 09:37:36 AM »
Shouldn't the carbonated bottles have a layer of yeast on the bottom?  I would think that would be an easy thing to check.

Other Fermentables / Re: Strawberry Soda
« on: July 17, 2013, 09:09:16 AM »
My kids like strawberries warmed up with maple syrup.  I think vanilla would be a nice touch.

Sounds kinda like Fanta Red Pop.

I always force carb soda, but that's just me.

Equipment and Software / Re: Cool trick
« on: July 17, 2013, 07:44:42 AM »

I use starsan on my IC. I like to drop it in after flameout instead of 5-10 minutes prior. I'm not letting the IC soak in the starsan however- I'm looking for about a minute contact time and then into the wort.

I do exactly as Euge does.  The wort is still hot, but not boiling.  A quick dip in star san and then into the pot.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1056 Smack Pack Viability
« on: July 17, 2013, 07:41:35 AM »
If you don't have a 5 liter flask or a gallon jug, use two .5 gallon or even 1 quart jugs and make 700 ml starters with 70 grams of DME each. pitch one smack pack into each.

Growlers work great for this.  They're what I used for my first starter.

Don't be afraid of the starter.  It's the easiest thing you'll ever do.  Shake the wort initially to oxygenate it.  Swirl it whenever you walk past after you pitch the yeast.

You don't need an airlock on the growler, just cover it loosely with foil.  If you want to use an airlock, go ahead but it's not necessary.

Equipment and Software / Re: Outdoor Gas Cooker
« on: July 16, 2013, 07:26:47 AM »
I use a Camp Chef Explorer
Has two burners, wind shield, sturdy. Handles two 14 gallon pots no problem

The camp chef looks awesome.  You use it right out of the box on the stock frame?

I'm going to lean on the wife for a 14 gallon pot for my birthday.  Or a grain mill.  Maybe both if she really loves me.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Spartanburg SC Beer-Out Plastic Piece
« on: July 15, 2013, 11:29:14 AM »
Maybe someone couldn't find a replacement for a faulty poppet, and this was a homemade fix?  (Just a wild guess.)

No.  For whatever reason, some kegs were made with a tapered plastic gas-in dip tube.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Spartanburg SC Beer-Out Plastic Piece
« on: July 15, 2013, 11:28:25 AM »

Just had the same issue.  Stainless washer and an o-ring and you're good to go.

Much more detail in the link.

Ingredients / Re: When to add sugar for Biere de Garde
« on: July 12, 2013, 08:30:54 AM »
Aeration is also important in bigger beers.  I've got a tripel with 2lbs of sugar fermenting right now.  No signs yet of stalling.  If it does, I'll report back but I don't expect it to.

Definitely, you need a good pitch of healthy yeast for a beer this size.

Ingredients / Re: When to add sugar for Biere de Garde
« on: July 12, 2013, 07:40:00 AM »
I add everything to the kettle, but either way works.

1/2 lb is not so much that I would think it makes any difference either way.

If you're talking about reaching maximum achievable ABV, then I could get into the staggered sugar additions to the fermenter.  Otherwise, IMO it's close enough to equal either way.

Ingredients / Re: Candi sugar
« on: July 10, 2013, 12:00:15 PM »
I add all my sugar additions at the end of the boil, unless I forget.

When I forget, which happens, I just add the sugar straight into the carboy.  Usually this is table sugar, not syrup.  Once the fermentation is going, I think the yeast will find the sugars so I'm not too worried about whether or not they settle to the bottom.  I don't think I'd do a whole 1.5lbs at once though.  I'd stage that over a couple additions.

I don't see any impact in attenuation in adding everything in the kettle.  I don't have a comparison, but my attenuation tends to be very good and I would not want it to go further.

As far as sanitation, the brix of sugar/syrup/honey should be high enough that nothing's going to grow on there.  I wouldn't worry about it, and I don't.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Ball lock vs. Pin lock
« on: July 09, 2013, 07:52:55 AM »
If I were to start out now, I would be pin lock.

Due to availability?  Or some other reason?

Just curious.

I haven't seen such a huge price difference at least locally.  All kegs seem to be hovering around $50.

Definitely, though, I agree that there's no reason to pay more just for the ball lock connections.

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