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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1621
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Bottle size
« on: November 23, 2014, 10:25:49 AM »
Time helps. If they tasted yeasty and now they don't I'm guessing the suspended heat has settled out.


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1622
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: ive gotta ask
« on: November 22, 2014, 11:46:29 AM »
It only happens to me when I'm trying ti kill an almost empty keg to put another one on tap.  I keep drinking and drinking and there's still beer left....

You just need a bigger glass.

1623
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast stout question...I'm a little drunk!
« on: November 22, 2014, 11:44:44 AM »
I made starters for years without a stir plate.

I started making them in growlers.  No stir plate.  Worked just fine, but I do like my stir plates.

1624
It will just speed up what would also happen in the chest freezer.  This includes maturing and staling - its all a matter of time and temperature.

This is true.

1625
For me, if it was repulsive,  like moldy dust, poo, rat urine, vinegar etc, it's probably not ever going to be good.

Is rat urine distinctive from urine in general?

1626
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Saving a bad beer
« on: November 20, 2014, 04:26:16 PM »
Feeling bad for him and recognizing that you're better off dumping it are two different things.

50 gallons, but each individual brewer probably only contributed 5.  So the loss is 5 gallons of bad beer.

The other option, if you have the space and inclination, is to package it and wait.  I don't know if a bad beer will get better, but waiting is free especially if you have a spare keg.

1627
Wood/Casks / Re: Whats the consensus on oak ageing with cubes
« on: November 20, 2014, 09:40:00 AM »
I think a year is crazy long.  I don't believe I've gone much past 10 days with chips, but cubes should take longer to impart the same oakiness.

Definitely you will want to start tasting samples after a week or so.  Package when you think it's where you want it to be.

1628
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fining options
« on: November 19, 2014, 11:57:13 AM »
Not at all.  I have a box of Knox gelatin purchased specifically for fining.  I use it for beers for the reasons described by Ynotbrusum.

My point, and I think that of others, is that unless you're in a rush there is no real need to use finings to get clear beer.  Time and cold will do just fine in most cases.

There are also some (minor) downsides to fining.  Gelatin (I've never used biofine) will strip out some hop flavor, particularly if the beer was dry hopped.  Also, if you're vegan gelatin is not what you want to use.  I think biofine may be OK for vegans.

1629
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Raising Ferm. temps
« on: November 18, 2014, 07:45:24 PM »
I typically keep my fermenters in my cool room for the first 24 - 36 hours and then bring them out to let them warm up to ambient and finish.

I just moved two tonight.  Currently they are 57 degrees and I expect they will rise to 68 and finish out.

I've never used mechanical means of warming, and I've given up on 3724 so I don't think I'll ever need to.

IME, the beer will rise to ambient at a relatively slow rate due to the thermal mass.  Some control the rise for a degree or two a day, but I've never been that detailed about it.

And I agree with Denny that controlling the temp at the outset is more important than controlling what temp the finish at.  57 is a little lower than I tend to go with Belgian yeasts (which is what I just moved) but it's damn cold out so that's what I got.

1630
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fining options
« on: November 18, 2014, 07:40:36 PM »
Or you can just wait.  I've only had a few stubborn beers that won't clear with time. In that case, gelatin works very well.

But for the most part, time and cold do wonders.

1631
The Pub / Re: Reminiscing
« on: November 18, 2014, 04:04:09 PM »
If I look back, I see all the things I didn't do.  I didn't drill my new pot for the weldless valve.  As a matter of fact, I haven't used that new pot yet.  Or the burner.  I didn't finish my mash tun (and it's a cheap and easy approach) and I didn't brew that 10 gallon batch outside in the yard.

But I do have a saison and a dubbel fermenting in the basement.

And there's always next year.  I'll  be starting it off with a decent list.

1632
I use O2 and a sintered stone, so I can't comment much on how to whip up your wort.

However, I would comment that your IPAs might seem to be coming out better because the higher IBUs are masking the sweetness.

What are your starting and finishing gravities?  Are you giving the beer enough time?

O2 is particularly important, IME, in getting high gravity beers to ferment well but while it's beneficial for average and lower gravity beers I think you can get good attenuation without it, assuming you have pitched a good quantity of yeast.  I'm not saying don't do it, just that your problem may lie somewhere else.

What sort of extract are you using?  Is it dark extract?  How much?  In a bigger beer, you can sub regular sugar for some of the extract to get better attenuation.

1633
My suggestion would be to use Centennial.

100% agreement.

1634
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Storing open container of liquid yeast
« on: November 18, 2014, 09:34:03 AM »
I agree with Jim.  Alternatively, you can collect the slurry after you rack your first beer and reuse that yeast for your next.  It's as simple as pouring the yeast into a sanitzed jar/container.  I use tupperware one liter bottles.

1635
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 3864 - Canadian/Belgian Ale
« on: November 14, 2014, 07:26:56 PM »
No argument here. I have a starter going for tomorrow. One of my favorite yeasts.

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