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Messages - Joe Sr.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wow!
« on: January 17, 2014, 08:12:22 AM »
I stopped using it.  Too finicky combined with too lazy.

Wyeast probably didn't stress enough over the years the ferm temp requirements of that yeast. Amanda emailed them last year about 3724 and they replied that it needs to ferment @ 90F +.  It stalled on me a few times before knowing that, like it does for most people at cooler temps.  I've fermented it twice now @ 90F and it works fantastic there.

That's where the lazy comes in.  I've followed most of the threads about it, as I think it's spectacular when it works, but I'd have to invest time and effort into a way to warm my fermenters.  I use BBs and I'm not too keen on strapping a brew belt or other heat source directly to the plastic.  I have trouble getting beers above 70 in my basement.  Cool I can do, warm is a whole different thing.  Space to build a warming chamber is not currently available.

So, for now 3711 will be my choice.  And I have a slurry in the fridge so I need to plan to use it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 2 year old yeast?
« on: January 17, 2014, 08:07:39 AM »
It's not like the yeast have become zombies and your beer is going to turn out awful.

I agree.  I've seen performance changes on successive pitches, though, and that's where I'd be most concerned in a lighter beer like a Kolsch.  You're looking for a certain flavor profile and there's not as much room to hide as there would be in a big stout or something heavily hopped.

The biggest change I've noticed in yeast is reduced flocculation and not flavor characteristics.  My guess is that I get less of the most flocculant yeast when I harvest the yeast cake (though I do my best to get the entire cake, there's always some left in the fermenter).  Gelatin does the trick, though, so I don't worry too much.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 2 year old yeast?
« on: January 17, 2014, 07:58:07 AM »
That's pretty old.  I keep my yeast for a long time, too, but that may be pushing it.

Since you pitched into the starter, you'll know soon enough.  If the starter seems OK you can take the risk and pitch it.  Probably not a huge risk but with the time and stress on the yeast you may not get what you're hoping for.

I'd probably trot out and get a new smack pack, myself.  I just dumped some yeast from my fridge last weekend that was a wee bit old and I figured it was time for new.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wow!
« on: January 17, 2014, 07:52:36 AM »
I'm going to give the hybrid another week just to be sure on Diacetyl.

Google "forced diacetyl test" and save yourself a week.  ;)

And yes, it's possible. I like getting my Dupont strain as a fresh dump from a good friend's fermenter. It ferments to 1.006 from 1.050 or so in 8 days. Yes, the Dupont strain can finish in 8 days. There. I said it.

+1.  Happened for me too !

I stopped using it.  Too finicky combined with too lazy.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Frickin cleaning time
« on: January 17, 2014, 07:42:07 AM »
I've got a pretty big kitchen sink, but I don't think I could fit a carboy in it....
i have to use the sprayer hose to rinse, but the carboy will lay in there on its side.

Funny, I have a floor drain in the basement, but it never occurred to me until reading this that I could use it for cleaning up after brewing. Of course, since I brew in the kitchen it doesn't make much sense. But now I suppose I have to think about starting a basement setup....

Sent via mobile

I suppose it would fit in on the side as it's not that much bigger than the kettle.  I brew in the kitchen, too.  Carboys (Better Bottles) stay in the basement.  I carry the hot wort down the stairs.  Only had one idiot moment where I ran the kettle into the side of the dryer and spilled a bunch.  Never an issue on the stairs, though now I've probably cursed myself.

Best move I ever made was to install a Pex line to my garage - I hook it up manually to a slop sink in the basement and run either hot (for cleaning) or cold (for chilling) through the line.  A hose bib is the terminal end in the garage.  Makes cleaning a keggle and mash tun a snap!

My garage is a good 30 feet from the rear of the house.  I dream of renting a Ditch Witch and cutting a trench to bring out extra electric, water, etc.  I even have the routing planned.  It will never happen.  But it's nice to think about.

I enter three earlier thus week. First comp ever.

Planned to do it last year, bottled em, never entered em.

Got Monday off so I'll be bottling.

Looks like the marked as paid may still be an issue but you're probably aware.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Frickin cleaning time
« on: January 16, 2014, 08:45:32 PM »
The floor drain is where I cracked the lays glass carboy I will ever use. Not the drains fault though.

It's nice to have but it dries out in the winter so I have to cap it. The tile is cracked and it's not worth digging up the floor. In the summer the dehumidifier dumps into it and keeps it full which is nice.

I've got a squeegee for when I hose off the floor but I don't know where my son put it. He's only two so he doesn't remember.  I found out after the last time I hosed off the floor.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Frickin cleaning time
« on: January 16, 2014, 03:01:10 PM »
Hmm. I've always just used our kitchen sink. I've never thought that it was any bigger than anyone else's sink, but maybe it is if all you guys are saying you can't fit everything into yours. Once in awhile I will take a carboy outside and hose it out, if the weather is decent and it's a time of year when we have the hoses connected anyway. But generally our sink works fine for me.

Your right, the kitchen works OK for carboys and 5 gallon buckets.  When you start to use vessels much larger than that, the typical kitchen sink becomes more challenging to work with.

I've got a pretty big kitchen sink, but I don't think I could fit a carboy in it.  My 7 or 8 gallon kettle pretty much is the largest thing I can clean in there.

Thankfully, I have a floor drain in my basement and a hose attached to my slop sink.  I just have to make sure I don't spray Jr. when he's "helping out."  He loves to stir the bubbles in the bucket of star san.  Often with his whole arm, sleeve and all.  He goes back upstairs dripping wet.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chest freezer concern
« on: January 16, 2014, 02:43:09 PM »
It must be a big block carboy.  Probably has a 4 barrel carburetor.   ;D


That's a four barrel carbonator, pal.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: sediment in bottom of bottles
« on: January 16, 2014, 10:19:58 AM »
Theoretically, the number of yeast cells needed to be present to carbonate the beer is pretty low which is how some of the commercial breweries can do it and have such minimal sediment.  Where the threshold between just right and not enough lies, I have no idea.

When bottle conditioning I'd rather have a little more sediment than flat beer.

There are also yeasts intended/marketed for bottle conditioning that supposedly form a more compact layer and are not as easily disturbed.  One of the dry yeast manufacturers (Frementis?) markets a yeast for this.  I have no experience with it, but I imagine you'd want to cold crash, fine, and then add the bottling yeast to the bottling bucket with your priming sugar.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Classic American Pilsner
« on: January 16, 2014, 09:03:57 AM »
Nevertheless,  my question stands... having no commercial example in this style is really testing my OCD.

Since the style calls for native American hops, which there is no such thing, their native to China if memory serves, maybe this is a mythical beer and that's why a commercial version doesn't exist.

Jim,  I think you'll need to visit Mr. Peabody and use the wayback machine.  Could be a good time.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: First Kegging Attempt - Pressures?
« on: January 16, 2014, 08:22:44 AM »
I think this is something where you're going to have to experiment a bit and figure out what works best for you.

Serving pressure will depend on a number of factors including type of beer, length of line, ID of line, temp, and probably others.  You'll want to start with a longer line which gives you the option to cut it back if necessary to get a good pour.

I typically hook up the gas at 30 and shake the keg.  I'll shake for about a minute at a time and maybe give it two or three times.

Overcarbing can be a PITA but is not the end of the world.  The beauty of kegs is that you can adjust them.

Events / Re: Looks like some can already buy registration for NHC
« on: January 15, 2014, 02:49:41 PM »
Does the NHC have sponsors?

Typically the (non brewing) industry conferences I've been to all sell sponsorship packages that come with a certain number of passes.  Most of the time sponsors are vendors (law firms, accountants, etc).

I wouldn't expect anything different here.  My guess is the conference doesn't pay for itself simply through ticket sales but maybe it does.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Hydrating US-05
« on: January 15, 2014, 02:22:52 PM »
I vote for sprinkle without hydrating. I've tried both ways, and my sprinkle batches are every bit as good as my hydrated ones. I've stopped hydrating for simplicity's sake.

Hydrating is pretty damn simple, IME.  I typically hydrate, but I've done it both ways with good results.

It's easy enough to set aside a small glass of water with the yeast in it while the wort cools.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary options
« on: January 15, 2014, 09:51:55 AM »
My experience is that my beer is best left undisturbed.  Adding dry hops to the primary would be my preference (one less racking - so a lower likelihood of contamination).  Sometimes, however, reasons exist for using a secondary (where harvesting yeast from the primary, fruit is added, extended aging, spicing, or a true secondary fermentation of some other additive).

In the past two weeks I've done a couple things I haven't done in ages. I added fruit, I dry-hopped, and I used a secondary.

I dropped the fruit right into the primary since I wasn't planning to harvest the yeast.  Never really thought about transferring.

I transferred to a secondary before dry hopping, but mostly because I was splitting the batch and wanted it in smaller fermenters.  In order to minimize O2 exposure, I put a carboy cap on the smaller carboys and flushed them with CO2 through a racking tube, pushing the air out the other hole in the carboy cap.  I then hooked the transfer line to the racking tube and fed the beer straight to the bottom of the new carboy with no splashing.

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