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Messages - Joe Sr.

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46
All Grain Brewing / Re: Another efficiency thread
« on: July 06, 2015, 10:48:30 AM »
Thanks for all the responses.  I'm batch sparging, not fly sparging.  I thought I had the crush set pretty fine, but I did not adjust it for the torrified wheat.

I'll have to give it another go and see if I can improve.  So far, draining the mash has been the biggest issue I've encountered.  The sparge water drains a LOT better than the original mash.

47
All Grain Brewing / Re: Saison attempt
« on: July 06, 2015, 07:24:28 AM »
Nice.  This thread has inpsired me to try 3724 again.

It's chugging away right now in a side-by-side with 3711.

Hopefully, no stall.  But if so, I can be patient.

48
All Grain Brewing / Re: Another efficiency thread
« on: July 03, 2015, 03:43:26 PM »
Thanks, Euge.  It was a beautiful day so it was nice to sit outside and get it done.

It seemed like the screen on the drain (I'm using a stainless mesh deal, like a sure screen) was floating up in the mash.  Not sure if that caused an issue or not.  It seemed to.

Do I need to weight that down somehow?

49
All Grain Brewing / Another efficiency thread
« on: July 03, 2015, 03:22:16 PM »
Finished my first out door all-grain batch today.  I did one all-grain on the stove top, years ago, so this maybe counts as my first.

Anyway, on to the questions.

My efficiency is maybe around 65%, which seems low.  I milled my own grain, and I've got it set pretty tight.

Strike water was 160 and dropped to 140 in the tun.  I add boiling water to bring it back up to 150.

I mashed for 90 minutes.  Recipe is Saison d'ete from NB.  Pils, Vienna, torrified wheat.  Expected OG = 1.041.

Mash was three gallons (I mashed in two round coolers, so 3 gallons each).  Sparge was 4 gallons.

My boil was pretty hard (Dark Star burner,  LOTS of soot but NB is sending a new one with a redesign to control the soot).  I wound up with 8 gallons at 1.048.

Curious as to thoughts on how to increase efficiency.  Was my mash and sparge water not enough?  I think pH was fine but didn't check.  Crush, as I said, was pretty fine.  The mash had trouble draining. Sparge drained pretty much OK.

I've been doing partial mash batches on the stove-top, BIAB.  That efficiency has been crappy, too.  But there wasn't much sparge with that process and I never worried about it because I adjusted with DME.

Here's Himself (Jr.) stirring the mash.


50
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast shipped warm.
« on: July 02, 2015, 09:02:37 AM »
with dry I wouldn't stress unless you are noticing issues related to poor yeast health. With liquid making an appropriate sized starter with some nutrient included is your best bet for revitalizing the yeast.

I think this is your answer here.  You're making a starter anyway, I assume, so give it a little extra love, start it small and step it up.

As with many things, I think there's a greater margin of error than you might expect.  Making a robust starter should be enough to account for any handling/shipping issues with the yeast on its way to you.

51
Classifieds / Re: Good Deal on Kegs
« on: July 02, 2015, 08:57:13 AM »
I sure don't need anymore, but it's always fun to look.

If the one's he's shipping look like the ones in the photos they're in better condition than half of mine.

52
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: July 01, 2015, 12:33:53 PM »
Get an espresso machine.  The only time I ever used mine was when I had newborns in the house.  It works miracles.

53
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: July 01, 2015, 11:59:25 AM »
How would you attach the auto-siphon to the liquid post? What if I don't use an auto-siphon anymore and simply fill the keg with a silicone tube from my ball valve on the fermenter.

The tubing from the autosiphon runs to a disconnect which is attached to the liquid post.

You would attach the tubing from your ball valve in the same fashion.

Don't over-think this.  The goes-out from the fermenter attaches to the goes-out on the keg (which is now effectively the goes-in).

54
Equipment and Software / Re: Fermentation Chamber suggestions
« on: June 30, 2015, 10:11:20 AM »
Dunno.  Too much.  I gave it a short blast but the regulator was probably at 5 psi or so.  Maybe more.  I use an air gun attachment and cram it into the carboy cap.  Sometimes I get lazy and try to feather the air gun to control the pressure.

The BB lifted slightly and then settled right down.

55
Equipment and Software / Re: Fermentation Chamber suggestions
« on: June 30, 2015, 08:28:30 AM »
Interesting suggestion Johnnyb.  I ferment in plastic carboys so I would be worried about them bursting.  I like the idea of using CO2 to eliminate oxygen though!

Paul

I use CO2 to transfer from my Better Bottles.  They won't burst, but if you over pressurize the will lift a little as the punt pushes downward.  Never had them crack or leak, but there's probably a weak spot in them now...

56
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: classification for beer comp
« on: June 29, 2015, 02:21:04 PM »
I would think that if the lime and lemongrass are not strong you could just enter it as a blonde.

But I don't compete much.

57
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What makes a lager a lager?
« on: June 29, 2015, 01:48:37 PM »
Tradition is just doing something the way it has always been done.  If you stuck to tradition, you wouldn't have west coast IPAs.  You'd only have English IPAs.

Not too long ago people would tell you that you absolutely need to ferment your lagers cold.  Marshall's lager fermentation schedule puts the lie to that.

If you submit a beer to a BJCP comp as a lager and it wins, it's a lager to me because it meets all of the required stylistic characteristics (assuming the judges know what their doing, of course).

No one who's tasting it knows what yeast you used unless you tell them.

58
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What makes a lager a lager?
« on: June 29, 2015, 08:32:36 AM »
That's why this whole discussion, as rabeb25 is questioning, seems to be just to kill time.

We're on the internet, thus by definition we are killing time, no?

59
Equipment and Software / Re: Stir Plates
« on: June 26, 2015, 02:11:40 PM »
Wow.  $86?  Are they worth that much?

I built mine, so the cost was minimal, but if I had to pay $86 I'd lean towards the shake and bake method.

60
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What makes a lager a lager?
« on: June 26, 2015, 11:11:29 AM »
I saw that one. I was thinking clean ale yeast fermented at cool temp vs lager yeast fermented at low temp

IME, "clean" yeasts are never really all that clean.  Different yeasts will perform differently and give different flavors.

Fermented cold, the difference are probably minimized, but they'd be different.

Clearly, you can ferment cold with an ale yeast and get lager-like flavors.  I see no reason you couldn't call that a lager as no one who drinks it will be analyzing a yeast sample under the microscope.

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