Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - a10t2

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 247
1
It only seemed appropriate to brew an American Pale Ale… Fermented with the Liberty strain, of course. 8)

2
I should mention that purging techniques are pretty contentious over on ProBrewer. There's a continent that thinks that it requires less CO2 to fill from the bottom while constantly bleeding the tank from the top via a spunding valve or restricted butterfly.

I've only checked product DO levels, but it would certainly be an interesting thing to test with a sniffer.

3
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: Today at 12:34:20 PM »
Once I got the post on (prior to attaching tubing), it started to squirt some of the trub out even after I continued to bleed CO2.

That doesn't sound like a great practice anyway. The tubing would be full of air prior to starting the transfer. What I do is start the siphon with the end of the tubing in a bucket of sanitizer, then attach the QD to the tubing under the level of the sanitizer once beer has filled the tubing.

Regardless, it's really weird to have anything coming out of the liquid post with no pressure on the keg. Are you sure the PRV was locked open?

4
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: Today at 11:07:52 AM »
I figured as much. Still not sure I understand what's happening though. Beer is coming out of the PRV when you vent it? Or leaking from somewhere else?

You wouldn't need to purge a "dirty" keg, by the way. It's already full of CO2.

5
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: Today at 10:07:30 AM »
 :o I think you need to clean the keg...

6
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: Today at 09:25:30 AM »
Gave this a try yesterday and even after purging the empty keg with the PRV multiple times, gunk kept squirting out of the keg randomly. Did I do something wrong? Figured something was off so I never bothered trying to transfer beer this way.

I'm guessing you can't do a closed transfer without using two kegs. In my case I'm using a keg and a fermenter.

What kind of gunk? Squirting from where?

And no, it isn't a true closed transfer. Although I've been thinking about modifying one of my bucket lids to have ball-lock posts and a dip tube.

7
Exactly. Your assistant can never set a fermenter to freeze the beer, for example.

8
r1 and r2 make sense but then I can't figure out the reason for r0.

r1 and r2 don't set the maximum/minimum allowed temperature, they set the max/min *setpoint*.

If you had sp=40, r0=5, r1=38, and r2=42, the temperature would rise to 45, then the controller would kick on.

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Another efficiency thread
« on: July 03, 2015, 04:22:51 PM »
How are you sparging? If it's batch, check your numbers against this: http://seanterrill.com/2013/10/05/batch-sparging-calculator/ It could be incomplete draining of the first runnings if the mash was sticking due to the wheat.

If you're fly sparging, then the floating screen was probably the issue.


10
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Lazy Kegging
« on: July 03, 2015, 01:19:34 PM »
I've actually done this twice in a row over the past couple months. If the beer is sanitary and the keg is sanitary my only concern would be sediment building up.

11
Most homebrew IPAs I drink are oxidized (maybe grin dry hopping maybe not). I agree the risk can easily be mitigated though.

That's been my experience as well, although I think it's most often from open-air transfers. My hoppy beers got a lot better once I started obsessing about oxygen exposure.

And Denny, I completely agree, although of course I'm going to be pedantic about the difference between "theoretical" and "hypothetical". ;D

As modern brewers we get the benefits of centuries of work on best practices in brewing. Knowing why those practices are what they are is always a good thing though.

12
No experience, but the way it's worded seems straightforward.

r1 and r2 are a dummy-check to keep your set point reasonable. As long as r1 < sp < r2, you're good. If you need to move sp outside that range you'll need to adjust.

c2 and c3 are the on/off times for the failure mode where the probe is disconnected or broken. 5 min on, 5 min off isn't going to be great for a compressor, and since you're running a freezer would probably result in it freezing. I'd change c3 to 45 min, since that's what seems to be working for you.

c4 is the minimum time the compressor will stay on. I don't see any reason to increase it.

c5 is the minimum time between compressor cycles. As above, 10 min is pretty short but it seems unlikely you'll ever cycle it that much.

13
I would consider that there's a risk of oxidation by dry hopping late, except I've never experienced it!  I would guess that I've dry hopped 200-250 batches and never had an oxidized beer from the dry hops.  If it doesn't happen, I'm not going to worry about it.

Risks can be mitigated, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

I'm not going to worry about oxidizing a beer by dumping in some hop pellets and resealing the fermenter, but I'm also not going to toss the pellets in one at a time from across the room. ;)

14
Equipment and Software / Re: Orbital Shaker
« on: July 02, 2015, 08:24:33 PM »
So homebrewers with small children could sell it to their spouses as an automated cradle-rocker, you say...

15
Equipment and Software / Re: Orbital Shaker
« on: July 02, 2015, 07:05:41 PM »
Yowza. I've seen washing machines with smaller motors.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 247