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Messages - a10t2

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast washing
« on: March 20, 2017, 01:44:05 PM »
I haven't washed yeast with chlorine dioxide, but it's my preferred brewery sanitizer, and I wouldn't recommend that anyone play around with it at home. A hood is all but mandatory for working with it in enclosed spaces.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch sparge efficiency
« on: March 20, 2017, 01:28:43 PM »
Can't find Seans forum name atm, but I wasn't aware he had an online version. Would have made my work a lot faster.

Don't worry, I found you! ;)

I'm using a similar approach now, but when calculating lauter efficiency by the ratio of volumes, you need to account for the volume displaced by the sugar during the mash, which he appears to be approximating using the C=1/SG coefficient. I'll need to check out his source code, as my calculator, which matches kai's to a couple decimal places (floating points yo) is calculating a difference of 3-6% lauter efficiency. When I lower the absorption rate to 0.12, they're pretty close though (.5-2%). Which matches the apparent absorption rate using preboilvolume - strike / grist mass.

That all sounds correct to me, but to be honest I haven't looked at my own source code in 3+ years. I'll try to dig into it a little more tomorrow.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast washing
« on: March 20, 2017, 09:25:06 AM »
Looks like a good harvest to me. What are you washing with? I've done acid washing on a commercial scale, but for a home brewer yeast is so cheap I wouldn't bother.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch sparge efficiency
« on: March 20, 2017, 09:22:16 AM »
Typically I'd  get about 82% mash efficency with fly and I only got 70% this time. My question is where am I messing up? I did two equal run offs through Beersmith and the second one was a 180 degree infusion which resulted in a 166 mash. I stirred it gently and let it sit for about 10 minutes before running it into the mashtun. Any thoughts?

Given that you get higher efficiency with fly sparging, I think the major mash parameters (crush, pH, temperature) are probably in line and your losses are coming in the lauter. My first suspect would be incomplete draining of first runnings - did you verify that the runnings were actually equal in volume? Another possibility is that if you are saving significant time over fly sparging, you aren't allowing for complete conversion that was previously happening during lautering. I always verify the gravity of my first runnings before I start running off.

If you plug your numbers into this calculator you can see how close you were to the theoretical efficiency:

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Best filling volume for keg
« on: March 16, 2017, 05:44:12 PM »
I figure any headspace you don't absolutely need is just wasted. I fill until beer starts coming out the gas post, and just sanitize the gas disconnect I use for carbonating afterward.

The Pub / Re: Brewers Association Top 50 Breweries 2016
« on: March 16, 2017, 12:43:34 PM »
Hey Sean, wasn't it a letter from August Schell's that also went viral. We plan to stop there making our drive to HomebrewCon.

Could be, I was working from memory.

If I can make it to NHC I'll try to join you at Schell's. It looks great.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear beer??
« on: March 16, 2017, 10:54:19 AM »
Absolutely, without the oxidation added from the fining agents to boot!

This is something I haven't heard before. Are there particular fining agents that are known oxidizers?

Does chill haze drop with time?  I assume so.  But I guess I don't know for sure since I'm asking.

IME it does but it takes a very long time (several weeks).

The Pub / Re: Brewers Association Top 50 Breweries 2016
« on: March 16, 2017, 09:03:30 AM »
Okay, then why is Yuengling a craft brewery and Pittsburgh (Iron City) is not?

As I remember it, Charlie Papazian and Tom Schlafly signed an op-ed in the Post Dispatch a couple years ago that singled out Yuengling as one of the "crafty" breweries trying to cash in on a trend. Yuengling's reply defending their beers went viral, and lo and behold they're on the list.

Iron City specifically seems to be wholly owned by something called Unified Growth Partners.

The Pub / Re: Brewers Association Top 50 Breweries 2016
« on: March 16, 2017, 08:51:20 AM »
Why is Duvel Moortgat USA considered to be a small and independent brewer, while Ballast Point is not?

The BA definition says that you're a craft brewer as long as your parent company meets the rest of the standards for a craft brewer.

Equipment and Software / Re: Kw's and quantity
« on: March 13, 2017, 12:40:19 PM »
Weight of water (8.30#) times the desired temp rise. In my case, I'm figuring 60*. My hot tap is about 125*, so 40* is plenty for strike water. So, 40* times my weight of the water, in this case 33.2 = 1328kw will heat that amount of water in one hour.

That would give you BTU (I think - I have very little experience with non-metric units). Google says 1328 BTU/hr is just under 400 W, which sounds more reasonable.

Also, with a submersed element not give me 100% efficiency? Why would you figure 80%?

You will get nearly 100% heat transfer to the liquid, but you need to account for the losses to the environment. FWIW my electric HLT averages about 88% efficiency, but it isn't particularly well insulated.

Equipment and Software / Re: Kw's and quantity
« on: March 13, 2017, 11:35:28 AM »
I'm not sure what the math is supposed to represent, but you can boil an arbitrary amount of liquid with relatively little power provided the kettle is well insulated. The only questions are how quickly you need/want to come up to a boil, and the boiloff rate once there. For example, if you have a 1500 W element and 80% heat transfer efficiency (pretty conservative), you can heat 7 gal from room temperature to 212°F in about two hours:

7 gal * 3.8 L/gal * 4.2 kJ/L-°C * 80°C / 1.2 kJ/s = 7448 s

And boil off about half a gallon per hour:

1.2 kJ/s * 3600 s/hr / (2257 kJ/L * 3.8 L/gal) = 0.50 gal/hr

Given that it's a 3600 W circuit, I'd assume you'll have more power than that going into the kettle. It should be totally reasonable for full-volume 5 gal boils.

I once had a valve fail on a glycol loop (it stayed open) and crashed a fermenting batch of 1.090 beer to 45 degrees on US-05 and the yeast was chugging along like nobodies business. It eventually warmed up into the lower 60s on it's on once I got the glycol shut off. Attenuation was right where I wanted it and taste was clean, no off flavors at all.

Early on in my career I was working in a brewery with no air conditioning, so in the winter I'd have to knock out in the 70s and by the time fermentation was wrapping up the beers were in the 40s. I won a couple awards for a "lager" brewed with that schedule and S05. :o

Ingredients / Re: HSI
« on: March 09, 2017, 10:53:56 AM »
For older/classic hops, Garetz's table is pretty complete. It should at least give you a jumping-off point for newer varieties.

That said, if you store hops cold and use them within a couple years, there isn't much (theoretical) need for aging calculations.

Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 06, 2017, 02:09:43 PM »
Thanks, Sean. I know it sounds like a crazy amount but I'll say in my defense that, if you look at Kelsey McNair's recipe (maybe from his NHC presentation?) , his hop schedule is on a par with mine. And he's done ok with his IPAs.  Or actually the Le Cumbre  recipes posted in Zymurgy - IIRC theirs used more. It's funny, I get one of those out of my system and it's on to kolsch and lagers for awhile.  ;D

I've been looking at some pseudo-canonical recipes and I'm just having a terminology hangup - I brew ~8% beers with around 4 lb/bbl pretty frequently but I tend to think of them as IIPAs. My "IPAs" that I almost always have on tap run around 6.2-6.5% and 8 oz hops per 5 gal. I go to La Cumbre every chance I get, but I don't think I've ever had two Elevated IPAs.

I just read the Kelsey McNair presentation and since I recently stocked up on hops, I think I'll try to slip something in that vein but with your hop schedule into the rotation. If my math checks out, his recipe is just over 10 oz per 5 gal, and other than the malt bill being lighter (no Munich) actually looks a lot like my IIPAs. I maintain that my low boil temperature means I get more flavor and aroma out of my hops though. ;)

Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 06, 2017, 01:12:20 PM »

However many oz of Chinook or Columbus it takes to hit 70 IBU @ 60 mins. Then 8-10 oz in a 170F whirlpool/stand. 5-6 oz dry.

Edit - should've added for 5.5 gallons.

WOW!  I don't think I've ever used even half that much. I need to try your IPA!

Having had a couple of Jon's APAs I can tell you it's well worth your time.

I just went through all my notes and 16 oz is the most hops I've ever used in a 5 gal batch - and that was a 14% ABV triple IPA. :o

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