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Messages - a10t2

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16
What happens when a place goes out of business? Does anyone go pick up the handles?

That's my guess. Except for the nationals it seems to be mostly Northeast breweries.

We were going to get fancy ones but went with the cheaper "pub" style ones and we are still over $30 each.

I have a friend who's 3D-printing ours out of solid billets of aluminum for not much more than that. If his printer can manage it they're going to have a captive ball, which I'm irrationally excited about.

17
Equipment and Software / Re: Synec
« on: February 13, 2015, 09:07:01 AM »
I don't think I get it. The oxygen pickup filling the bags is the same as a growler; you have the advantage of the beer staying carbed between pours, but a few 32 oz growlers also solve that problem and save a ton of counter space, plus $290.

Edit: We got an email from them asking if we'd fill the bags. As far I can tell, they conform to CO law, so yes.

18
The Pub / Re: Will beer cans be the "Food Babe's" next target?
« on: February 12, 2015, 07:59:32 PM »
Having watched canning lines in action as opposed to bottling lines, I can't see how cans are better since there is no way they aren't being exposed to oxygen fir a longer duration than a bottling line.

That can be true straight off the line, but a few weeks out the can will always win because even the best-capped bottle allows some oxygen ingress.

That said, best-practice packaging and storage essentially negates what minimal oxygen exposure occurs for either bottles or cans.

19
The Pub / Re: Will beer cans be the "Food Babe's" next target?
« on: February 12, 2015, 07:25:15 PM »
I love that people can live in big cities, inhaling POUNDS of hydrocarbons per year, and spend the whole time obsessing about what they ingest at the femtomolar level.

20
Equipment and Software / Re: stupid refractometer question
« on: February 12, 2015, 07:20:31 PM »
That is exactly what I thought, but of course this is after I've stopped boiling and the wort was still. It seems there is a thin layer of more watery wort near the surface of still wort.

I've seen the same thing and always attributed it (without evidence) to hop oil accumulating on the surface of the wort. As long as I sample (using a syringe and pulling ~0.5 mL, so that it cools almost instantly) a little below the surface I get consistent readings.

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: High gravity efficiency troubles
« on: February 06, 2015, 08:15:24 AM »
So my preboil gravity was 1.041 and it was then that I thought I had a problem.

What was your pre-boil volume? You should have extracted 3.5 gal using that mash schedule, giving a post-boil of ~1.066.

22
All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 05, 2015, 11:40:57 AM »
I didn't know tannins were nutty.

23
All Grain Brewing / Re: How do you know what mash/sparge volumes to use?
« on: February 04, 2015, 10:43:50 AM »
Can you explain this more?

I should have said that to optimize lauter efficiency, you want to mash as thick as possible. If the total water volume is constant, reserving more liquor for the sparge will more thoroughly rinse the grain bed.

At homebrew scales (or nano scale, for that matter) it doesn't really make much of a difference, but at bigger breweries it's nice to get that last few percent, if only because it translates into less grain you have to lug around.

24
All Grain Brewing / Re: How do you know what mash/sparge volumes to use?
« on: February 03, 2015, 08:02:46 PM »
Assuming 6.5 gal is your pre-boil volume, yes.

25
Beer Recipes / Re: Captain stubings light lager thoughts
« on: February 03, 2015, 07:13:32 PM »
Maybe switch out the base malt for a Pilsner (or Pils-Vienna if you're being adventurous)? Might make it just interesting enough to be good.

26
All Grain Brewing / Re: How do you know what mash/sparge volumes to use?
« on: February 03, 2015, 07:09:06 PM »
12 lb of grain will absorb ~1.5 gal (0.12 gal/lb), so you need to sparge with enough that your total water volume is your pre-boil volume plus 1.5 gal. e.g. If you're trying to start the boil with 6.5 gal, you would want to infuse another 6.5 + 1.5 - 4.5 = 3.5 gal.

In practice, the liquor-to-grist ratio (1.5 qt/lb in this case) doesn't make much difference. If you're batch sparging, you want to try to get the two (or more) runoff volumes to be equal. For fly sparging, you want to mash as thick as you can work with.

27
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter from table sugar?
« on: February 03, 2015, 03:28:17 PM »
Interesting thought... so you take your wort from the mash tun into a milk jug, trusting that the temps in the tun were sufficient to kill the cooties?

No, I boil it for a minute, then go straight from the stove to the milk jug.

28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter from table sugar?
« on: February 03, 2015, 02:55:42 PM »
Interesting.  I like easy and time saving.  As long as it boils prior to use, what could be the issue?

You don't even have to boil it a second time. I just pour the near-boiling wort into a milk jug, cap it to pasteurize, then thaw it and pour directly into the starter vessel when I need it.

29
All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 02, 2015, 07:01:08 PM »
North American base malt?

For ales, always. Generally a Continental pils malt for lagers.

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 02, 2015, 06:13:55 PM »
What have the breweries that you have worked at do? Your pro experience is of interest, as time tied up in the mash tun is money at a production brewery.

IME, it's very equipment-specific. I've done "rests" as short as 15 min and as long as 45, but every brewery I've worked at has had at least 30 min lauters, with most if not all of that time being at conversion temperatures.

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