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Messages - a10t2

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Ingredients / Re: Standard 2Row vs Pale Ale Malt
« on: August 19, 2015, 04:26:20 PM »
Hm, I'm brewing an IPA on Saturday with 94% Belgian pale malt. The original recipe says two-row, which I cannot find in Belgium. Should I maybe combine pale and pils malt?

Your pale malt is almost certainly two-row. Pale *ale* malt, in most maltsters' language, is two-row that's kilned a bit darker. Pale ~2-3 SRM, pale ale ~3-5 SRM.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Phenolic Feedback
« on: August 19, 2015, 01:52:12 PM »
Isn't mixing bleach with any acid a basic no-no?

Adding pretty much anything directly to an acid is a no-no. Dissolving acid in a dilute bleach solution is OK. I'd still do it outside or under a hood just in case.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Phenolic Feedback
« on: August 19, 2015, 08:02:32 AM »
I've been using starsan for years with good luck,

I think you answered your own question. ;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: keeping conan
« on: August 19, 2015, 07:52:44 AM »
And maybe you can get it on an ongoing basis, but me,  poor little inhabitant of Antwerp, proud city of the Bolleke Koninck, cannot.

I just meant that you don't have to worry about maintaining the purity of the only culture. Even if the yeast labs won't ship to you, I would. ;)

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Things you wish breweries would figure out
« on: August 18, 2015, 10:56:28 AM »
The combination of a reasonably good palate and a willingness to dump beer seems to be rare.

All Grain Brewing / Re: color of Susan
« on: August 18, 2015, 10:00:22 AM »
Brew it hazy and over-saturate slightly?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: keeping conan
« on: August 18, 2015, 07:02:23 AM »
Do you mean -80°C? -18°C is a normal household freezer, in which you could definitely store slants or stabs if you wanted to go that route. But a culture stored under beer in the fridge will be viable for years. I'd try not to go more than a few months if possible, and maybe keep two cultures for defense in depth. We're also talking about a strain you can get on an ongoing basis, just not easily.

Beer Recipes / Re: Spaten Oktoberfest clone
« on: August 17, 2015, 09:10:31 AM »
WLP820 has a very looooong lag time, and is a poor attenuator.  It is less than mediocre and is probably the worst lager yeast on the market, i.e., use any other lager yeast and get better results.

Do you think the information/speculation that WLP820 is Weihenstephan 206 is incorrect? I haven't had any problems with it as Wyeast 2206.

FWIW, plenty of breweries use compressed air.

Beer Recipes / Re: barleywine >20% ABV
« on: August 14, 2015, 09:40:04 AM »
Hey Brandon, I saw your PM and figured it would be better to post here.

Here's what I wrote up at the time:

Most of the info is in the Northern Brewer posts. What I did was boil down to a really concentrated (>1.2 SG) wort, dilute for the initial pitch, then monitor gravity and add a slug of the concentrated wort every time it started to level out. The idea is to keep the gravity low throughout fermentation.

Once I ran out of wort I switched to staggered sugar additions instead. I wouldn't use the dark candi sugar though, since the whole objective is high attenuation. You'll probably also need to rack onto a fresh yeast cake at least once during fermentation. High-gravity Belgian strains seemed to work well, but Chico is also a good choice with the low flocculation.

How does this person on HBT know what level of dissolved oxygen they're getting in their wort?

This. Oxygenating without a DO meter is just guesswork. With aeration, you can at least say with some confidence that you're getting close to saturation levels - which are ~9 ppm at 18°C/64°F and ~12 ppm at 8°C/46°F. So the guy arguing didn't even do his math right.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Filtering by Gravity
« on: August 10, 2015, 03:49:37 PM »
Based on your process I agree the best solution would be finings. Added once the beer is cold and left for a 3-day cold rest you should be racking very clear beer over. No need to lager 6 weeks after that treatment either. 1-2 weeks is usually enough.

Anyway, I think your plan is sound. Keep up with the sanitation on the filter, since that will probably be the weak link. 5 micron nominal won't get all your yeast for powdery strains, so don't expect it to be a silver bullet.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting Smegma out of Better Bottles
« on: August 10, 2015, 08:50:33 AM »
I'm fairly sure the only penis I've had in beer is raccoon penis.
Was that Al's coon pecker beer??

It was at NHC, so probably?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting Smegma out of Better Bottles
« on: August 09, 2015, 07:00:59 PM »
I don't even know what sebaceous means



Some quick math suggests about 75% mash efficiency and 30% alpha acid utilization. Your results may differ, but those seem like reasonable assumptions to me.

The lager recipe explicitly calling for one pack of yeast that was posted recently was pretty bad.

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