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Messages - a10t2

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Beer Recipes / Re: How to Doctor a Belgian Blonde
« on: January 13, 2012, 09:54:06 AM »
I do like the idea of using some candi syrup. Do you guys think half a pound in a 5 gal batch would be noticeable? I don't want to bump up the gravity too much.

I also just remembered that I have some Citra, and I'm thinking that would make a terrific dry hop for something like this.

Decisions, decisions...

The Pub / Re: Coming to a cable channel near you
« on: January 13, 2012, 12:20:46 AM »
Fantastic! Let's hope they can get to market.

Beer Recipes / How to Doctor a Belgian Blonde
« on: January 13, 2012, 12:04:43 AM »
I'm getting ready to do a split batch of a Belgian-style Blonde Ale for the new BBR-BYO experiment, and while I love the style, I'm not sure I want to have 10 gal of the base beer on tap. So what would you do with the second batch? I have a source of local wildflower honey, but I'm not opposed to a fruit beer - notwithstanding that nothing's in season. I'm also debating spicing it in one way or more.

What would you do?

FWIW, the base beer will probably be 78% pale malt, 17% Munich 1, 5% CaraVienna. Magnum at 60 min for ~20 IBU, and Wyeast 3787. Any additions will have to be made post-fermentation, to either the fermenter or the keg.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ambient vs. Fermentation Temps
« on: January 12, 2012, 11:47:09 PM »
Set it a couple of degrees cooler then your desired fermentation temp

+1. Also, get a $3 LCD thermometer for each of your fermenters so that you can monitor the actual beer temperatures.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Wars?
« on: January 12, 2012, 11:44:22 PM »
If one yeast gives so and so characteristics, and the other gives such and such, do you end up with such and so, or does one yeast outdo the other, or do problems ensue?

AFAIK, in beer, either (1) or (2) but not (3). There are "killer-positive" yeasts that will actively kill others, but I don't believe any beer strains are among them.

It's hard to know what will happen without trying it. Different strains reproduce at different rates, and it's likely that one will out-compete the other, but you may still get some combination of their characteristics.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Good Old American two step
« on: January 12, 2012, 11:37:51 PM »
Do you have a page number? My copy doesn't have a chapter or subsection with the title "Other Fermentables". The passage I quoted does have an accompanying chart.

Edit: I found it, in Chapter 11, "Beyond Barley". The two are identical.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Good Old American two step
« on: January 12, 2012, 11:09:15 PM »
Any chance you'd be willing to post Mosher's cereal mash schedule?

I'm thinking this is what you want.

Quote from: Mosher p. 205-206
In this method, a small amount (5 to 10 percent of the total batch) of six-row malt is added to the wheat and oats. This is stewed at 122°F (50°C) for fifteen minutes, then raised to 150°F (65.5°C) and held for another fifteen minutes. This goo is then heated further and boiled for fifteen minutes. At this point, you should have your malt mash at the protein-rest stage (122°F/50°C)) [sic], and the boiled grains, when added to it, will bring the whole mash up to 155°F (68.5°C). This fairly high mash temperature is used to produce a wort with large amounts of unfermentables, which helps contribute to its texture. After forty-five minutes of mashing, the mash is raised to 170°F (76.5°C) to stop enzyme activity and help liquefy the whole thing. Traditionally, the wheat chaff removed at threshing was added back to help provide a filter bed. Rice hulls, about 1 pound per 5 gallons (0.45 kilograms per 19 liters), will do the same thing. Be sure not to let the bed drop below 160°F (71°C) during sparging or runoff will become very difficult.
If all of this seems a bit overwhelming to you, there's a workaround. With a high proportion of malted wheat (70 percent is about right), you can achieve a similar thick, lubricious body. Use instant oats rather than the old-fashioned kind, as they require no precooking.

If you're worried, you can normalize it a bit by building a cheap fermentation chamber, basically a box .  It won't be as subject to fluctuations over a short time scale.  No need for any temp control.

Or put the fermenter in a tub of water. That will even out the temperature swings, but also knock a few degrees off. So it might be too cool, depending on the ambient temperatures.

Just out of curiosity, where do you live that you can ferment in the basement during the winter?

The Pub / Re: How to deal with an a$$hole coworker?
« on: January 12, 2012, 03:14:29 PM »
Being as big an asshole as the co worker doesn't seem like a very good solution to me....

To be fair, most of these suggestions would make him a *bigger* asshole. ;D

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Reputable kits online
« on: January 12, 2012, 02:39:52 PM »
Rebel Brewer sells most (maybe all?) specialty malts in 1 oz increments.

Ingredients / Re: Zythos and Bitterless Black wheat malt
« on: January 12, 2012, 01:27:12 PM »
There's no way they used 40%. Look at it.

I wasn't there for the brew session or anything; that's just what one of the brewers told me.

Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 12, 2012, 12:59:37 PM »
I keep hearing that grain and malt based wort's provide a lot of Mg to the wort, and as shown above, I still can't confirm that with definitive numbers.

Anecdotally, I've tested worts for all of our beers with a basic home testing kit and found 380-510 ppm total hardness, 190-230 ppm Ca hardness. The base water has 50-60 ppm Ca and 2-7 ppm Mg after salt additions. So that works out to the malt contributing 16-32 ppm Ca and 37-78 ppm Mg, assuming my math is right. I'm assuming that the wide spreads are at least in part due to the wide gravity range (10.4-16.5°P), since the base malt was the same in all cases and made up at least 3/4 of each grist.

Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 11, 2012, 08:55:19 PM »
That look fine. There *probably* isn't any reason to add additional Mg, and you certainly won't get any benefit from an additional 6 ppm.

How much of lag time is actually time that passes before fermentation starts rolling, and how much time is spent filling up the head space of the fermentor?  How much pressure needs to build up for a regular airlock to bubble?

The pressure required to move a 1" column of water is ~250 Pa, or 0.036 psi. So filling the headspace is a non-issue. Some respiration would have to occur for the wort to become saturated with CO2, but that's also negligible - about 0.2°P of fermentation, or an SG drop of a little less than one "point" - give or take a bit depending on temperature.

Does the exposed surface of wort as a proportion of wort volume make a difference?  ie, if I had a wider 6.5 gallon fermentor that's half the height of the standard plastic pails will that produce a noticeably different beer?

The amount of headspace makes no difference, because the pressure of the air column is the same whether it's inside or outside the fermenter. The height of the wort column does matter, because the hydrostatic pressure will affect the flavor compounds created during reproduction and fermentation. All other things being equal, a taller wort column will result in suppressed ester formation, for example. But like hokerer said, the effect won't be noticeable at homebrew scales. IME, it isn't even noticeable in 7 bbl fermenters.

Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 11, 2012, 04:09:14 PM »
I strongly suggest that a10t2's recommendation might get some brewers into trouble.

Would that be when sodium concentration is also high?

The reason why I so strongly oppose the use of a Cl:SO4 ratio is that almost every day, I see a post from a home brewer who has carefully tweaked his salt additions to get the ratio just right, but has the actual concentrations at ludicrously high or low levels. I have to assume that for every brewer who bothers to ask about it, there are a dozen others who are naively calculating the ratio without knowledge of the caveats that go into using it.

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