Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - a10t2

Pages: 1 ... 164 165 [166] 167 168 ... 290
Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 12, 2012, 03:55:19 AM »
That look fine. There *probably* isn't any reason to add additional Mg, and you certainly won't get any benefit from an additional 6 ppm.

How much of lag time is actually time that passes before fermentation starts rolling, and how much time is spent filling up the head space of the fermentor?  How much pressure needs to build up for a regular airlock to bubble?

The pressure required to move a 1" column of water is ~250 Pa, or 0.036 psi. So filling the headspace is a non-issue. Some respiration would have to occur for the wort to become saturated with CO2, but that's also negligible - about 0.2°P of fermentation, or an SG drop of a little less than one "point" - give or take a bit depending on temperature.

Does the exposed surface of wort as a proportion of wort volume make a difference?  ie, if I had a wider 6.5 gallon fermentor that's half the height of the standard plastic pails will that produce a noticeably different beer?

The amount of headspace makes no difference, because the pressure of the air column is the same whether it's inside or outside the fermenter. The height of the wort column does matter, because the hydrostatic pressure will affect the flavor compounds created during reproduction and fermentation. All other things being equal, a taller wort column will result in suppressed ester formation, for example. But like hokerer said, the effect won't be noticeable at homebrew scales. IME, it isn't even noticeable in 7 bbl fermenters.

Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 11, 2012, 11:09:14 PM »
I strongly suggest that a10t2's recommendation might get some brewers into trouble.

Would that be when sodium concentration is also high?

The reason why I so strongly oppose the use of a Cl:SO4 ratio is that almost every day, I see a post from a home brewer who has carefully tweaked his salt additions to get the ratio just right, but has the actual concentrations at ludicrously high or low levels. I have to assume that for every brewer who bothers to ask about it, there are a dozen others who are naively calculating the ratio without knowledge of the caveats that go into using it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Good Old American two step
« on: January 11, 2012, 09:03:02 PM »
Any chance you'd be willing to post Mosher's cereal mash schedule?

I'll post it tonight. PM me if I forget.

Just in case it isn't clear, Mosher's tables are for fly sparging and Kai's are for batch sparging.

Tom, great idea the only problem I have with your idea is that i don't have a second chiller.  I'd prefer to have ~30 minutes between each just to ensure i have enough time to chill the beer.

In that case, just sparge with hot (>185°F, 85°C) water so that you're doing a mashout. The wort can then sit in the tun as long as needed.

Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 11, 2012, 07:33:36 PM »
Isn't 100-150 ppm Cl too high? Bru'n water says the recommended range is 10-100.  What concentrations of SO4 should I be targeting? How well would this profile work?

I'm sure Martin's forgotten more about water chemistry than I'll ever know, but here's what Palmer says:
Quote from: How to Brew
Brewing Range = 0-250 ppm.
The chloride ion also accentuates the flavor and fullness of beer. Concentrations above 300 ppm (from heavily chlorinated water or residual bleach sanitizer) can lead to mediciney flavors due to chlorophenol compounds

Remember, recommendations are just that. I've never personally noticed any issues with 100-150 ppm, and that's almost always what I target for a malty beer like this. For SO4, I would avoid adding any. If you're getting 26 ppm from your water, that should be fine. The exception would be in a Maibock, where I shoot for ~100 ppm Cl and ~50 ppm SO4 to make sure the hop bitterness is more pronounced.

Ingredients / Re: Zythos and Bitterless Black wheat malt
« on: January 11, 2012, 06:13:08 PM »
40%???? That sounds insane!

I could be way off on that number, but it's definitely a "wheat beer" grist. Just black wheat instead of pale. There's no roast to it at all. It's a new seasonal for this year, BTW.

Ingredients / Re: Bock Water
« on: January 11, 2012, 05:32:49 PM »
I have also read that it doesn't matter at low concentrations of sulfate and chloride. Is this true?

I would say yes. In this case, for a malty bock, I'd shoot for 100-150 ppm Cl. That will make the ratio work out to something ridiculous, but it doesn't really matter.

Actually, I would argue that the ratio *never* matters and that what you should be doing is targeting specific SO4 and Cl concentrations.

Also, Bru'n water lists Magnesium Chloride and Pickling Lime as possible water additions. I have not been able to find either of those. Where can those be obtained from and are they ever really useful?

MgCl2 is widely available as de-icing salt, although to find a food-safe source you might need to go through a chemical supplier (Cole-Parmer et al). Calcium chloride is more readily available and will do the same thing.

Pickling lime (aka slaked lime, canning lime, etc.) is calcium hydroxide. Any grocery store with a good selection of canning supplies should stock it. It's useful for reducing alkalinity if you have alkaline water.

Ingredients / Re: Zythos and Bitterless Black wheat malt
« on: January 11, 2012, 05:30:32 PM »
Do you get New Belgium down there? Their "Snow Days Wheat" is brewed with a large proportion of midnight wheat (around 40% IIRC).

Zythos is a blend of 14 varieties, including Simcoe, Citra, Amarillo, and Sorachi Ace. Focusing on low-cohumulone varieties, apparently.

Beer Recipes / Re: The Maibock
« on: January 11, 2012, 04:19:36 PM »
Yep, this pseudo winter will be over before you know it.

If I end up taking a winter off to ski and not getting any skiing done, I'm going to hurt someone.

Ingredients / Re: Hemp Seeds
« on: January 08, 2012, 01:34:06 AM »
Well, that's just, like, your opinion, man.

What I'm not sure of is how the rated capacity applies at the temperature differential that I am looking for

I know people have done something similar to what you want, although on a larger scale, using a window air conditioner. That might be the cheapest and/or easiest option. Any commercial unit should be overkill for what you need.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Reputable kits online
« on: January 07, 2012, 09:04:48 PM »
I can personally vouch for the Rye IPA and Waldo Lake amber kits from NB.

Imagine that. ;)

erockrph, in addition to the shops you mentioned, you could probably add half a dozen other to the list. MoreBeer and Rebel Brewer come to mind.

Equipment and Software / Refractometer FG Calculator (now with PHP!)
« on: January 07, 2012, 05:07:01 PM »
I've had quite a few requests, so I figured I'd post something to let people know it's finally done.

Refractometer Calculator

Any help with error checking and such would be appreciated. Cheers!

am I missing something?

No, but I am because we want surface area, which is (2*27*40)+(2*40*24)+(2*24*27) = 5376 in^2 = 37.33 ft^2. And the power required is 249 BTU/hr.

Apparently I shouldn't have done that late at night.

Pages: 1 ... 164 165 [166] 167 168 ... 290