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Messages - a10t2

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2641
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Campden Tablet
« on: November 20, 2010, 06:01:52 PM »
I definitely wouldn't sulfite anything before you're going to pitch yeast. Just stay on top of your sanitation and letting the wort sit overnight won't be a problem.

2642
Equipment and Software / Re: Refractometers
« on: November 17, 2010, 07:49:42 PM »
I just stick my brewing spoon into the boiling wort and let it drip onto the refractometer.  Why buy more stuff?
When I do that I get an elevated reading due to evaporation.

2643
Beer Recipes / Re: strong belgian christmas ale
« on: October 25, 2010, 07:13:49 PM »
so you used 9 grams of fresh ginger? or was that a combo of many spices?

That was 6 g of cinnamon and 3 g of cloves. Personally, I don't like ginger in beer so I've never tried it.

2644
That's impressive, that's getting up into heat shock territory.  I'm really interested to hear how this one turns out, I've never heard of anyone fermenting anything that warm.

I racked it into the keg tonight. It tastes totally normal - a little fusel-y, but not out of whack for a two-week old 9.8% ABV Belgian. Actually, I wish I'd started it a little warmer so there would be more fruitiness. With a little age on it I think it will be totally drinkable. I would like to have been able to leave it on the yeast another week or two, but oh well. The keg will be bouncing around on the back of a truck for three days, so hopefully whatever yeast is left will keep working.

2645
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 vs priming sugar
« on: October 25, 2010, 07:32:23 AM »
Prof: How much carbonation are you using? For 2.4 vol of CO2 at 60°F you'd need 22 psi - and around 20 ft of 3/16" line to balance. That's been my experience, anyway.

2646
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Temperature Step-Up Regimen
« on: October 24, 2010, 08:23:54 AM »
It would depend somewhat on the yeast/style, but for most things I'd start at 63°F and increase it by 2°F/day to 77°F. That would get most of your fermentation done in the 60s or low 70s.

2647
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Starter tastes like Cider
« on: October 24, 2010, 08:20:44 AM »
Unless it definitely tastes nasty I wouldn't worry. Starters aren't usually very good.

2648
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 5 gallon sanitizing bucket
« on: October 22, 2010, 04:53:23 PM »
I'd be nervous storing an acid-based sanitizer in non-food-grade plastic, but I'm pretty paranoid about that stuff.

2649
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager yeast slow to act
« on: October 22, 2010, 01:45:27 PM »
Well, with a 1 L starter, even "stepped up", you pretty significantly under-pitched. Standard would be ~400 billion cells, and you would have had between 150 billion (still starter, with airlock) and 350 billion (stir plate, no airlock). So a long lag would be expected. On top of that, pitching warm and then cooling the beer can "shock" the yeast and further increase lag time. It's always best to pitch at or below fermentation temperature.

I'm sure this batch will turn out fine. Just make larger starters and pitch cooler in the future.

2650
Equipment and Software / Re: Heating a Fermentation Fridge
« on: October 22, 2010, 07:47:47 AM »
The optimum for skunking is actually about 400 nm (green light). An incandescent bulb will produce light at those wavelengths, but not nearly as much as a fluorescent. If it's exposed for long enough, though, you will get skunking.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=409.0

2651
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pils-friendly Water chemistry
« on: October 22, 2010, 07:37:55 AM »
I mean, I can get 10 gallons of RO water....then add some of my water back to the mix, but to understand what the resulting chemistry of that mix will be is highly challenging to my understanding of what I have actually arrived at

When combining two different waters, just do a weighted average for each ion. (That isn't technically correct, but it's certainly close enough for our purposes.) If you're diluting with distilled/RO water it's really easy: just multiply each concentration by the fraction that's tap water.

So, for example, if your HCO3 is 337 and you mix the water 50-50 with RO, the resulting water will be 337*.5 ~ 168 ppm HCO3. If you use 2 parts RO, 1 part tap, it'll be 337*.333 ~ 112, etc.

Your biggest problem will probably be sulfate. For anything other than a very hoppy beer, you'll need to dilute at least 3:1 just to get that under control.

This may help, depending on where the difficulty lies: http://seanterrill.com/2009/08/08/water-water-everywhere/ It's a decent starting point, at least.

2652
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Overshooting FG
« on: October 21, 2010, 07:30:24 PM »
Just throwing this out there: are you kegging? It's extremely dangerous to stop fermentation in a beer that's going to be bottled.

2653
You added a really small amount of sugar. I'm sure it's just finished. The fact that you saw active fermentation is a good sign though.

2655
The Pub / Re: Distilling
« on: October 21, 2010, 12:00:29 PM »
Off topic, and maybe for another thread, but I'm curious as to why everyone feels that homebrewing is not cost effective.

Just the time involved. Obviously that's a crazy way to look at any hobby, but if we're talking about a true cost-benefit analysis, you'd have to include a fair value for what your time is worth. Which is why I was saying it's unreasonable to think that about distilling, but not brewing.

Actually, even the equipment costs can be amortized fairly quickly. I've probably invested more in the equipment than most (just under $2000) and after 48 batches the equipment and ingredients are under $1 per 12 fl oz.

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