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Messages - a10t2

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2791
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Inconsistent gravity readings.
« on: May 25, 2011, 08:30:13 AM »
The simple way to get a good gravity reading is to take it after you've aerated your wort, assuming you're oxygenating your brew by rocking or stirring your fermentor.

If you're brewing with extract, I think the simplest way is just to calculate it and not worry about taking a reading at all.

2792
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Selling.....maybe?
« on: May 24, 2011, 07:48:55 PM »
It is a government mandated skimming operation (in addition to the government's own skimming via alcohol taxes).

To keep statements like that in context, it's important to remember that 33 states (last I checked) allow self-distribution.

OK, so now you're looking at a business plan and a number of barrels that are needed to make it work, at a MINIMUM. What that number is, I don't know. 10? 20 a day?

For a brewpub it's much less than that. Half a barrel a day will keep the doors open no problem.

2793
I've heard of some breweries that follow a one day per degree Plato rule of thumb (for ales). In general though, I think experience will be your best guide. It seems like you have a pretty good handle on the conditioning times you like, so go with those.

2794
Ingredients / Re: Pitching temperature
« on: May 24, 2011, 03:31:09 PM »
It depends. If you're pitching and then very quickly (within a couple hours) getting the wort to your desired fermentation temperatures, they won't make much of a difference. If it takes a day for the temperature to stabilize, then the pitching temperature could be critical.

2795
All Grain Brewing / Re: All Grain Efficancy
« on: May 24, 2011, 03:28:47 PM »
I just can't believe that m is leading in the poll.

2796
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Selling.....maybe?
« on: May 24, 2011, 07:26:05 AM »
Cleaning is a bit tricky if you don't own an actual keg cleaner (which I plan on purchasing eventually, but they costs about $15,000 for the one I want). ... Takes about 4-5 hours to clean/sanitize about 60 kegs.

:o It's all about perspective. I can clean maybe 5-6 kegs/hour since we have to pull the stems (in the sixtels, for half-barrels we just debung them).

2797
All Grain Brewing / Re: Spent grain
« on: May 22, 2011, 08:07:16 PM »
This month in" Brew Your Own" magazine has some recipes for pizza dough, cinnamon rolls, and dog treats.

It's in Zymurgy, actually. This being the AHA forum and all. ;)

I make bread with it, but that only takes up about 2 cups per brewday. The rest gets thrown away or (now) composted.

2798
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Selling.....maybe?
« on: May 22, 2011, 06:15:47 PM »
The break-even points will be a little different for everyone, but I was looking at a very small brewery operation and determined that it just can't be profitable. At a bare minimum, you need about a 1-1.5 bbl system just to amortize the capital costs within a few years.

2799
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Missing FG???
« on: May 21, 2011, 07:12:47 PM »
I faill to see the relevance of the recipe or yeast type.

Do you have any experience brewing? Different recipes will have different FGs, and even fermenting the same recipe with a different yeast will alter the FG.

Regardless, somewhere along the line you input an expected attenuation into BeerSmith, which it is using to calculate the expected FG. It doesn't "know" anything about your beer, so it can't make a prediction.

There are some pretty experienced brewers on this forum, on the other hand, so if you'd tell us the recipe we *could* make a prediction.

2800
You only need two points to describe a line in 3-space. Of course, you have to define your axes, or "vertical" is a meaningless qualifier.

2801
All Grain Brewing / Re: Understanding the Mash (for noobs like me)
« on: May 21, 2011, 11:26:44 AM »
I think you'll find the answers to all those questions in chapters 14 and 16 of How to Brew.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14.html

2802
Ingredients / Re: Honey malt - should I bother?
« on: May 21, 2011, 07:56:49 AM »
I regularly use 1/2 pound of Honey Malt (along with a late addition pint jar of Honey) in my Honey Wheat.  Nice sweetness and flavor.

I'd normally use 3/4 lb C20, so it sounds like I could pretty much swap in the honey malt and be good to go. So that's probably what I'll do. If nothing else it'll be a good experiment. I'll be adding 1.5 lb of honey for a secondary fermentation.

Why not go half and half in this next batch

That was my first thought, but I don't have a LHBS and I'm getting sick of all the odds and ends left over in my grain bin.

2803
All Grain Brewing / Re: Understanding the Mash (for noobs like me)
« on: May 20, 2011, 03:40:53 PM »
So lets take two hypothetical brews, one mashed at the single temperature of 147 and another at 147 then 158 (i am just making up these numbers, but i think you get the idea). What, do you think, would be the difference in the finished beer assuming everything was the same (yeast, hops, grain, water/grain ratio, etc.)?

I'd expect the two-step mash to have slightly higher fermentability than the single-infusion. Maybe also slightly higher efficiency, if the pH wasn't quite right. Of course, the precise temperatures do matter, at least when talking about variations of more than a degree or two.

2804
The Pub / Re: May 21 - What are you planning ot do?
« on: May 20, 2011, 02:41:48 PM »

2805
Ingredients / Honey malt - should I bother?
« on: May 20, 2011, 09:30:42 AM »
I'm getting ready to brew a simple honey wheat for the summer. When I've done it in the past I've used a decent proportion of 20L crystal malt (about 12%) to leave some residual sugar flavor that I think helps to accent the honey. But now I'm wondering if replacing that with honey malt would do even more to increase the perception of honey. What's holding me back is that I've heard the honey malt can be unpleasant in large quantities.

So, what say you?

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