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Messages - a10t2

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2806
Equipment and Software / Re: Wort Chillers
« on: April 13, 2011, 08:46:07 PM »
A CFC and a plate chiller are basically the same thing, and either will be more efficient than an immersion chiller. The advantage of the plate chiller is that it's going to be easier to clean, but it's also more likely to need cleaning IME.

2807
Equipment and Software / Re: Tasting arm questions
« on: April 12, 2011, 07:03:44 AM »
For little stuff like that I usually use stpats.com - looks like they're $1.50-$4.00 depending on size.

2808
Equipment and Software / Re: Tasting arm questions
« on: April 11, 2011, 09:04:33 PM »
Are these TC fittings? If so you'll want to use a white Teflon gasket, not the black rubber ones.

2809
All Grain Brewing / Re: Is This A Problem?
« on: April 11, 2011, 09:52:57 AM »
"During the respiratory phase of this process, these tiny monocellular organisms convert the available oxygen in the hopped wort to carbon dioxide"

Well, if "monocellular" was a word, that would be true... ::)

2810
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Aroma Hops...Optimal Wort Temp
« on: April 10, 2011, 09:45:24 PM »
Room temperature (20°C/68°F) for 7-10 days, IMHO. ;)

2811
I'm about the same as bluesman, but it's more like a 6-pack or a bomber every 2-3 weeks, just because that's how often I get to town.

2812
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: High final gravity - bottle or not?
« on: April 10, 2011, 06:52:54 AM »
US-05 will have no problem fermenting at 15°C.

As far as the expected FG, *you* are telling Beer Tools what to expect. All it does is take the attenuation you specify and do the math.

2813
All Grain Brewing / Re: Watering down beer
« on: April 09, 2011, 07:53:06 PM »
For me, the best plan would be to try to find a 3.5% mild recipe or something.  If I could make a full bodied, good tasting 3.5% beer, that's really all I want.

I've been on a similar quest recently. I think the key is to keep the sparge runnings high in gravity (or do a no-sparge mash), mash for moderate-to-low attenuation, and use a yeast that will contribute a lot of esters. I have a split batch of 3.6% ABV blondes on tap right now (one with English yeast, the other Belgian) and it's great. My 7.5% IPA feels thinner.

2814
Equipment and Software / Re: Best Hydrometer?
« on: April 09, 2011, 07:00:44 PM »
It's worth mentioning that when brewing with extract and/or sugar, there's no real need to take an OG reading, as long as you can measure the volume of the wort and the weight of the extract/sugar accurately. You can simply calculate the gravity.

In all-grain brewing, a refractometer is handy because you can take very quick pre- and mid-boil gravity readings. In an extract beer, you know that you'll always hit your target OG, so that isn't really a concern.

2815
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Cervesa Recipes?
« on: April 07, 2011, 08:17:43 PM »
i plan on subbing in rice or corn maybe even both and i will tell you how that goes to.

You can't use corn or rice in an extract beer. You need a mash to convert the sugars.

2816
All Grain Brewing / Re: Watering down beer
« on: April 07, 2011, 06:50:13 PM »
I know Mike McDole is a big fan of this technique. He'll have a ~8% ABV beer on tap, along with a keg of carbonated water, and dilute to whatever strength he wants.

2817
Equipment and Software / Refractometer FG Update
« on: April 07, 2011, 05:16:20 PM »
Since I had some unplanned free time today, I finally got around to posting an updated refractometer FG spreadsheet: http://seanterrill.com/2011/04/07/refractometer-fg-results/

There are some minor tweaks, but the big news is that I was able to collect data from six other brewers, and the precision of the new FG correlation seems to be about on par with the typical $8 homebrewer's hydrometer.

2818
The Pub / Re: Smoke on the Brewery
« on: April 07, 2011, 04:23:41 PM »
Thanks for the well wishes, everyone. I was in the brewery for a little while this afternoon. We still don't have power, so it's hard to be sure exactly what the extent of the damage is. There's standing water in the brewery, but only a couple inches, so the beer in the tanks is probably OK. If we go too much longer without being able to heat them the actively fermenting beer might have to be dumped, but that's only a couple dozen barrels or so. All the packaged beer should be able to be hosed off and be fine once the cardboard is replaced. The restaurant upstairs is going to be a total rebuild - the ceiling came down in several places and everything was totally saturated with water and smoke. We were supposed to be opening the first week of May, and I doubt that will happen, but we probably won't miss the entire season like POW and Adelaide's. We've already notified the insurers, so once they do their walkthrough we'll know more.

2819
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Cervesa Recipes?
« on: April 07, 2011, 11:57:34 AM »
If goose island, two brother's or great lakes made a beer similar to busch would it now be a good craft beer?

Goose Island are bad guys now, remember? We shall speak of them no more.

2820
Equipment and Software / Re: Prepping a cooler
« on: April 07, 2011, 10:11:08 AM »
For example, today it started at 154 and an hour later the thermometer is reading about 144.  I'm guessing I'm losing a lot of heat to warm the cooler so I'm wondering what you do.

Just add 10 degrees to your strike temperature next time - so in this case, calculate the infusion for a 164°F rest. The exact amount lost to the cooler will change with the mash volume and liquor:grist ratio, but that will definitely get you within a couple degrees.

If you want to get fancy, you can estimate the specific heat capacity of the cooler and - in my experience - hit the mash temperature right on target every time.

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