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Messages - a10t2

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2836
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water Calculators
« on: June 11, 2010, 08:55:32 AM »
I'm still struggling with the chloride to sulfate ratio though... I'm making a Belgain do you think a chloride to sulfate ratio of .79 is okay for the style?

.79 is probably fine depending on what the ion levels are - just citing the ratio doesn't give any information. For most Belgians I just try to get both around 30-50 ppm and call it a day. None of the traditional Belgian breweries do extensive mineral additions AFAIK.

2837
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water Calculators
« on: June 10, 2010, 12:04:00 PM »
Do you use a water softener? Have you had your water tested? It could just be excess salt (Na, Cl) in the water.

2838
All Grain Brewing / Re: Critique my water?
« on: June 10, 2010, 06:44:59 AM »
You have a lot of bicarbonate, but also a lot of calcium, so your RA is about 40. That might be a little high for a pale ale but is about right for an amber. For really light beers you'll need to dilute, and for dark beers you'll want to add more carbonates.

2839
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Shipping?
« on: June 09, 2010, 05:06:45 PM »
Did you see this thread? http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=1771.0

Long story short: USPS is illegal, don't tell UPS/FedEx what's in the box.

2840
Equipment and Software / Re: CO2 Tank
« on: June 09, 2010, 12:02:13 PM »
CO2 costs about a third as much in a 20 lb tank - I'd say that's well worth drilling a hole and mounting the tank/regulator outside.

I'm sure he's aware of what pressure to set his regulator at considering he lives in or near the mile high zone

Good call, at 5000 ft you need to add about 2 psig. The pressure differential due to something like a storm front or temperature variation is tiny.

2841
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: super high gravity
« on: June 07, 2010, 09:22:01 PM »
I dont actually think it has anything to do with the yeast being slow. At that ABV level, you're just getting to the point at which the yeast are dying off faster than they can ferment. Successive pitches are the only way to get around that.

This might be helpful: Batch 25

edit: Fred Bonjour has some good advice too: How to brew a really BIG beer

2842
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: noob boil question
« on: June 07, 2010, 09:19:03 PM »
You probably aren't hurting anything, although you might have trouble making very pale beers (due to darkening in the long boil) or beers with little malt character (due to the formation of Maillard products).

Offhand, I would say you probably aren't gaining anything by boiling for 3-4 hours instead of 1-2, so I would sparge less. Also, you might as well start measuring your boiloff volume per hour, so you know when to start the 60 minutes. Topping off is just a waste of gas/electricity IMHO.

2843
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How to know more about beer
« on: June 07, 2010, 09:15:37 PM »
Damn, Drew! I didn't know you wrote a book. I'm going to pick that up for sure.

2844
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Curious...part 2
« on: June 07, 2010, 09:14:00 PM »
2: Until a year ago, I lived in an apartment, and all of my beer equipment had to fit in a closet, plus the kegerator. Bucket fermenters stack, boil kettles nest and sit on top of the propane burner with the chiller inside, miscellaneous equipment inside the mash tun. It was actually the coat closet, and the beer equipment only took up the space from the floor to the bottom of the actual coats.

3: There are only two cons to small batches, IMHO: the extra time commitment per beer, and the fact that not having a keg filled just seems like a waste of space to me. Other than that, you get more experience, more variety, etc.

2845
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Just curious...
« on: June 07, 2010, 09:09:02 PM »
My kegerator will hold seven kegs - actually, I think I could shoehorn in an eighth, I just don't have one (yet). But, since I usually have something in there fermenting or lagering, there are usually 5-6 beers on tap. And almost always 1-2 fermenting or conditioning.

Right now, on tap: Berliner Weisse, Porter, Black Lager, THA Clone, Tripel
Lagering: Oktoberfest
Conditioning: Barrel-Aged Oatmeal Stout
Fermenting: Triple IPA, APA

That means I have two fermenters open, which isn't unusual since the move. Tragically, I now have fewer people coming by to help me drink. :'(

2846
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Stovetop/oven mashing
« on: June 06, 2010, 05:09:11 PM »
Would this work for you, Denny?

http://seanterrill.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_1928.jpg

edit: and one of stovetop sparging: http://seanterrill.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_1929.jpg (might need to blur the logo)

2847
World Class is our craft beer distributor (well, subsidiary of a larger BMC distributor). They're really great guys to work with, and they love beer.

2848
Equipment and Software / Re: ATC Refractometers
« on: June 03, 2010, 02:34:25 PM »
I did some playing around during my brew day yesterday. First I took some pre-boil readings (actually about three minutes after the boil started and I was confident I didn't need to babysit it to avoid a boilover).

The first sample I drew was treated normally, which means I pulled ~2.5 mL using a syringe, and then immediately inverted it into a glass of ice water, so that only the tip remained in the air. It sat there while I took the rest of the readings, which ended up being about ten minutes. The first mL or so was discarded and the sample taken from the middle of the syringe. The rest of the samples were pulled with the cheap plastic dropper that came with the refractometer. In each case I placed three drops on the sample plate, waited a given amount of time (by watching a digital clock), then closed the plate, waited 30 seconds, and took a reading looking through the refractometer at the (overcast) sky. The plate and cover were then wiped dry with a paper towel.

RI in Brix (no wort correction applied)
chilled - 19.9 °Bx
<1 s - 20.2 °Bx
10 s - 20.7 °Bx
20 s - 20.9 °Bx
30 s - 21.1 °Bx
60 s - 21.0 °Bx
90 s - 21.1 °Bx
120 s - 21.1 °Bx

This compares pretty well to a refractometer sample that was covered with plastic wrap and chilled in an ice water bath to 20°C, then shaken to make sure it was uniform. That sample read 20.0 °Bx (uncorrected) and 1.079 using the hydrometer - a difference of about 0.0013 SG assuming a "wort correction factor" of 1.04.

Post-boil, I did my normal whirlpool/chill, which got the wort down to 18°C in 28 minutes. Then I killed the pump and let it settle for 36 minutes while I did some cleanup. A sample from the top of the kettle read 25.3 °Bx. I ran off about a quart into the fermenter to make sure the lines were clear, then pulled a sample from the stream, which also read 25.3 °Bx.

2849
Only 12 states left that don't allow some form of self-distribution.
What I mean is that a brewery should be allowed to brew their beer, put it in their truck, and sell it to whomever they want (stores, grocery, bars, etc).

FWIW I agree completely. I was just pointing out that self-distribution is legal in 34 states (sorry, my memory was off). And in fact 26 states allow a brewery to do exactly what you describe, although there's generally a production cap of anywhere from 10,000 to 300,000 bbl/year. Drew posted a link to the BA page that links to the relevant legislation: http://www.brewersassociation.org/pages/government-affairs/self-distribution-laws

2850
The Pub / Re: Post count went down?
« on: June 03, 2010, 08:13:00 AM »
a10t2 needs to post quickly.  (if you are of the superstitious type)

Bah, I make my own luck. I was tempted to hang out at 666 for a while, but I couldn't give Paul the satisfaction of taking #5. ;)

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