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Messages - a10t2

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The Pub / Re: Potential brewpub location
« on: June 22, 2011, 03:06:21 PM »
What's the best way to do labeling? Nothing fancy, just something nice.

We just buy stickers (3x5 in) from an online print shop. It's time-consuming to apply them, but for low production volumes it's cheaper than a labeling machine. Of course, you may need to get someone to do the graphics, but that's a one-time expense.

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Virtual Homebrew Clubs And Competition
« on: June 22, 2011, 01:38:53 AM »
Maybe your club doesn't meet all my criteria, but it certainly meets the most important one- regular, physical meetings.

Your assumption that that is the most important criterion smacks of elitism to me. I don't live within two hours of a population center - so by your standards, I'm prohibited from belonging to a club?

The internet isn't going anywhere. Deal with it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Swamp cooler duration
« on: June 21, 2011, 02:44:15 PM »
IME using a swamp cooler in conjunction with a towel draped over the fermenter and a fan blowing across it will drop the temperature ~6-8°F below ambient. If you can keep fermentation in the mid-60s for the first week and then it warms up to the low 70s while you're gone, that won't be a problem. That would be a pretty typical fermentation schedule even for someone with precise temperature control.

The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: June 21, 2011, 02:27:08 PM »
It's the first day of summer!

We had snow last night. ::)

The Pub / Re: Potential brewpub location
« on: June 21, 2011, 02:21:26 PM »
Phil, I actually love the look of the building and wouldn't change a thing on that front. My concern would be space. 180 m2 is already borderline too small for a brewpub, and I'm assuming the upper story wouldn't accommodate heavy equipment and that there's no elevator to easily move supplies up and down. (Take it from someone who has to haul sacks of malt down a flight of stairs - you don't want to do it.) So you'd be left with trying to shoehorn a brewhouse, kitchen, and the front of the restaurant into 120 m2. I just don't see you being able to get enough seatings to turn a profit.

Whatever you do, get equipment which is larger than you think you will need. No one ever said they have too much capacity.

That depends on the capitalization structure and planned expansion. Quite a few breweries have failed because they started out with a 50 or 100 bbl system and didn't have enough demand to be able to amortize the startup costs.

Frankly, if you have a degree in microbiology, I'd skip "Yeast" and just get "Brewing Yeast and Fermentation" by Bolton and Quain. It's pretty much the bible.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low lager ferment temps
« on: June 18, 2011, 03:29:17 PM »
The built-in thermostat will probably only get up to around 40°F. At that temperature, you run the risk of the yeast floccing out early, or not fermenting at all. It also probably won't hold the temperature all that steady.

Serving temperature (~45°F) is pretty good for most lagers, so as long as there's room you could always ferment them in the kegerator. At worst you'd just have to bump it up a few degrees when there's something fermenting in there.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Rate for WLP-810?
« on: June 18, 2011, 03:58:36 AM »
Thanks for the help. Can you tell me how you figured that? I'm using the chart from the White & Zainasheff book Yeast.

I don't have the book with me, but I'm using Jamil's pitching calculator. According to that, even starting with 75% viable yeast, after making a 2 L starter you're at ~260 billion cells. From there another 2 L gets you to ~540B.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Rate for WLP-810?
« on: June 18, 2011, 01:26:10 AM »
In that case a second 2 L stage should get you where you need to be.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Rate for WLP-810?
« on: June 18, 2011, 12:43:58 AM »
Does that sound correct? Is there an easier/better way to get my starter to the needed 568 Billion?

Are you using a stir plate? If so, your starter volumes sound larger than they would need to be. If not, swirl the flask up as often as possible and use the "intermittent shaking" option in the MrMalty calculator.

Ingredients / Re: Hops Direct announced this years crop
« on: June 17, 2011, 01:56:11 PM »
I saw that too. I think someone is having a little fun with the emails.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew auto-correct
« on: June 16, 2011, 03:15:14 AM »
You know brewing has insinuated itself into your brain when you read that first sentence and see "dry hop" instead of "dry mop"... :-\

All Grain Brewing / Re: Deschutes Brewery uses Malt Conditioning
« on: June 15, 2011, 02:40:30 PM »
Wet milling isn't quite the same thing as malt conditioning. Wet milling generally involves spraying the malt in a hydration collar to about 20-30% moisture content immediately before milling. It's actually fairly common in large breweries where crush speed and dust production are major concerns. Conditioning involves barely wetting the husks with something like <5% water.

Ingredients / Re: American Amber Ale advice
« on: June 13, 2011, 11:47:50 PM »
If it's an "American" amber, wouldn't Perle, Tettnang and EKG be out?

Not necessarily. The BJCP guidelines (to the extent you care about them) say that "citrusy American hops" are common, but not required.

jt, my AAA grist is 76% pale ale malt, 12% Munich, 8% Med Crystal, and 4% Ex Dk Crystal, and it's done pretty well in competitions. In case that gives you any ideas.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Recipe Development
« on: June 13, 2011, 05:23:30 PM »
I might do better to just read the style guidelines and like Denny said, use my own imagination from the git-go.  I'm kind of liking this as a philosophical jumping-off point.

That's pretty much where I try to start too. Recently I've also been trying to reduce the total number of ingredients across all my recipes. Do I really need Centennial *and* Cascade on hand? Can I get close enough to Munich II by using Munich I and CaraMunich? That's probably a combination of lifestyle (no LHBS) and the "pro brewer mindset" starting to insinuate itself into my brain though. One of the big advantages of home brewing is that you can keep 37 malts in the cupboard with no consequences.

Regardless, as a general rule I think it's best to start with the simplest recipe possible and add things that are missing. Some of my early recipes were muddled messes with a dozen ingredients, and once you get to that point it's just impossible to figure out what to change. My porter is a good example: it started out with three malts but now it's up to seven, because I had to add things one at a time until I got the combination of flavors I wanted. If it had started out with seven malts I probably would have ended up scrapping the recipe and starting over anyway, because I would have had no idea where to start when adjusting proportions.

Plus, if the beers of yours that I've had are representative, you don't need any help with recipe development. ;)

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