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Messages - a10t2

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The Pub / Re: All eyes on europe
« on: December 16, 2009, 10:29:16 PM »

Euros is money, right?

The Pub / Re: What do you like besides homebrew
« on: December 16, 2009, 10:08:47 AM »
Dang, Rep! I did just under 1000 miles (971 according to the bike computer) this year and was feeling pretty good about that until now... the bike goes into storage once it starts staying below freezing though.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: OLD liquid yeasts!?
« on: December 15, 2009, 09:57:15 AM »
Three months is still ~40% viability, kind of a drag but not hard to deal with. It's a bigger deal as a customer service issue than a brewing issue.

The Pub / Re: Buying the Pabst Brewing Company
« on: December 14, 2009, 10:08:10 PM »
perfect for my even then quirky image  (I never drank 'normal' beer) ...and it was priced right.

Funny, that's why hipsters drink PBR now.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: freezing point
« on: December 14, 2009, 10:06:06 PM »
That's because a household freezer is around 0°F. A 5% ethanol solution freezes at about 28°F.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dry hopping in keg with pellet hops?
« on: December 14, 2009, 10:03:10 AM »
I use plain (unflavored) dental floss to hold my nylon knee-high.

This sounds like more of a discussion for The Pub...

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast pitching for a high OG noob
« on: December 12, 2009, 10:31:12 PM »
At 1.095 you won't need to do any re-yeasting. 250B cells is a little low though; standard would be about 350B.

If you like on really big beers you can aerate a second time after roughly 12 hours. As long as the yeast are in or just coming out of the "lag phase" it won't have time to oxidize your beer.

A couple of things still lurking in the gray cells that bother me.... Yes, Palmer addresses the exothermic action of fermenting beer, and says it can run as high as +10. Then in the same chapter he says pick a spot with an ambient temperature of 65-72 degrees to place your fermenter, which is exactly what I suspect the majority of folks do.

I don't want to speak for John Palmer, but I'm guessing that's because if he said "pick a spot with an ambient temperature of 60-64°F" most beginning brewers would say, "Damn! I guess I can't make beer!"

Plus, the lag time for the temp to reach the probe may cause the outer areas of the fermenter to be too cold before the controller shuts off.

The center of the fermenter and the outside will be the same temperature, at least within our measurement tolerances. Convection AND conduction will see to that.

This came up in a thread over at NB recently, which was the first time I'd actually bothered to do a simple estimate:

I went ahead and did the math. Fermentation of glucose (I couldn't find the free energy for any disaccharides) releases 235 kJ/mol. Assuming a 20 L batch and 10% drop in sugar (about average, I think, for a 1.060 beer) that's about 2600 kJ total. Without any heat being removed, that would raise the temperature of the 20 L of water by 31°C.

You can try to estimate how much of that heat will get removed by the air, but there are a lot of assumptions involved. Assuming the heat gets released at a constant rate over 72 hours, that's a steady state release of 14 W. Just eyeballing, a bucket has a surface area of about 0.55 m^2. I'm just going to use Newton's law of cooling for simplicity, with a coefficient of 10 W/m^2-K; that could be off by as much as half. Anyway, it works out to a differential of 2.5°C, about 4.5°F.

Beer Recipes / Re: What is Snowcap?
« on: December 11, 2009, 09:45:23 AM »
Deep mahogany in color, our full-bodied winter warmer is brewed in the spirit of British winter ales. Crafted with a flurry of roasted chocolate and caramel malts, and generously hopped, it delivers a smooth finish that makes this beer the perfect cold weather companion.

Original Gravity:
Alcohol By Volume:
2-Row Barley, Caramel 80L, Chocolate Malt
Nugget, Willamette, East Kent Goldings

Edit: damn you, ndcube!

- I saw "full boil" mentioned a couple of times, but am not really sure what this term means.

As ndcube said, you start with more than 5 gal (something like 6.5 for most people) and don't use water to top up. As a practical matter at the homebrew level, it means using a propane burner.

- As far as ferm. temp. control.  How sensitive are we talking here?  I am currently making a brown ale and my fermentation temp (ambient air) has been a solid 63-68 throughout the entire fermentation process.  Are you suggesting going to closed refrigerated systems or some sort of insulating jacket around the fermentor?

If you can keep the ambient air temperatures in the 60s, then temperature control can be as simple as setting the fermenter in a bucket or cooler with 5+ gallons of water in it. The extra mass will keep the temperature very close to ambient.

Are you doing full boils? If not that would be a logical next step. Either way, a chiller would be a good investment too.

You might want to do a small mash, to get a feel for whether or not going all-grain is something you want to do in the near term. I'm not familiar with the Miller book, but I see from Amazon that it's pretty short; you might want to get a copy of How to Brew. I wrote a quick and dirty guide to mini-mashing that might help:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Another Water Report
« on: December 10, 2009, 08:35:47 PM »
Have any epsom salt (MgSO4)?

Homebrewer Bios / Re: John Palmer
« on: December 10, 2009, 04:43:29 PM »
I can honestly say that if it wasn't for How to Brew I probably would have quit brewing after my first couple crappy extract beers.

Ingredients / Re: Peanut Butter Brew
« on: December 10, 2009, 04:41:55 PM »
I've heard you want to let it sit until there's an oil layer on top, pour off the oil, and repeat until it's mostly gone.

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