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Messages - a10t2

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: stir plate vortex
« on: March 22, 2010, 08:07:59 PM »
Awesome. I put together the LM317 circuit tonight, and got a set of 1"-2.5" stir bars on eBay. Now I just need to decide which hard drive to pull apart, and find/buy a box to put the thing in.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: stir plate vortex
« on: March 22, 2010, 11:28:23 AM »
What style stir bar are you using? The only thing holding me back from building a stir plate was that I'd have to get a big ol' flask, but if there's one that will stay centered on a convex bottom...

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting Times
« on: March 20, 2010, 04:23:02 PM »
Nah, making beer is dirt cheap and stupid easy. Your great-great-great-great-great-great-grandfather could do it, after all.

Now making GREAT beer, that's an art and a science. Let a few things slide and you still end up with GOOD beer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Higher SG than OG?
« on: March 20, 2010, 07:02:35 AM »
I guess we're all assuming you're using extract - if so your OG was fine, just thrown off by the water.

A 1.030 FG is a more serious issue. What yeast did you use, how much, and what are the temperatures like?

If it seems to be fermenting still, you may want to warm it into the high 60s or low 70s and swirl it occasionally, to make sure the yeast stay active.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting Times
« on: March 19, 2010, 08:21:29 PM »
I'd worry more about a week in primary not being enough, than any problems with secondary/bottling. It's possible that fermentation wouldn't be finished after 7 days.

70-74°F may be warmer than you want for most yeasts too.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Where are the fruity esters coming from?
« on: March 15, 2010, 10:37:45 PM »
Well, you pitched a tiny little starter, relative to the beer. That wouldn't even be enough for 5 gallons. So that might have resulted in excessive esters.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Finally sent for water report
« on: March 15, 2010, 11:22:54 AM »
I see lots of Chloride-Sulfate imbalances in these reports.

Except for hopfenundmalz, they all seem pretty tame to me. FWIW I don't think there's anything magical about a SO4:Cl ratio. 20:10 won't taste anything like 100:50. For that matter, mine is about 20:1 but hoppy beers don't taste quite right without more gypsum.

Anyway, here's mine. Lawrence, Indiana - we're surrounded by, but separate from, metro Indianapolis water.

Ca 96
Mg 26
Na 21
Cl 2
SO4 39
HCO3 358

The Pub / Re: Dinosaurs -vs- Cattle
« on: March 12, 2010, 12:28:04 PM »
As silly as this discussion is, it actually has merit. I am a little puzzled by the pirate connection to GW, but I've heard crazier ideas.

Nothing could be more straightforward:

The connection between piracy and global temperatures is irrefutable.

The Pub / Re: Dinosaurs -vs- Cattle
« on: March 12, 2010, 10:19:09 AM »
Are you implying that global warming was caused by dinosaurs? :D

Everyone knows global warming is caused by pirates.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Finally sent for water report
« on: March 11, 2010, 08:54:26 PM »
Does that mean I can brew low SRM beers as it is, and would have to adjust to brew something like an Imperial Stout?

Not quite; you'd probably want to add gypsum (for hoppy beers) or calcium chloride (for malty beers) - at least enough to get your calcium to 50 ppm. The only time you would have to dilute with distilled or RO water would be for something like a pilsner. For anything darker than maybe 10 SRM, you'll need to add carbonates with chalk and/or baking soda.

Ingredients / Re: Hop pellets imparting color?
« on: March 11, 2010, 12:17:48 PM »
I've noticed that with Hallertauer too; they seem to have much more chlorophyll than other varieties. Or something like that.

Am I batch sparging correctly, and am I moving in the right direction?

Your procedure sounds good. If anything, I'd say you could save some time and effort by skipping the 168°F mashout and going straight to the sparge. Do you know what kind of efficiencies you're getting?

Not if I'm drinking directly from the container. Aluminum, lined or not, still has a metallic taste.

Well, no offense, but if someone is drinking directly from the container, taste (or at least aroma) can't be a huge concern for them.


Two of the same beers, at the same price, on the shelf, I'm going with bottles. I'm looking for the best taste. I'm not buying good beer to save the earth.

Cans reduce oxidation, reduce skunking, are less likely to break, cheaper to produce and package, less likely to break, and allow more beer to be shipped/stored in a given volume. I can't think of a way they *aren't* superior.

If taste is your main concern, you should prefer cans.

Ingredients / Re: Westmalle water
« on: March 10, 2010, 04:07:17 PM »
Unless you were able to get a sample of the mash liquor from the brewery, it wouldn't necessarily tell you anything anyway. They could very well have their own RO units.

Besides, I'd hate to see you give up beer space in the luggage. ;)

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