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Messages - a10t2

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Where is the beer in the process now?

Edit: Looking at the recipe, that's a 1.036 beer with >25% of the fermentables coming from sugar. I'd be shocked if it only got to 3.0% ABV. How are you estimating the alcohol content?

All Things Food / Re: Pot Smokin
« on: February 05, 2011, 12:03:28 PM »
Is that just finely shredded wood you're using for the smoke?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Killing enzymes?
« on: February 05, 2011, 12:00:30 PM »
So, according to tschmidlin, and I have no reason to not believe what he says - I respect his knowledge, if some of these enzymes re-nature what would be the effect of starting hot, say 170f, and letting the mash cool down to 150?

I tried that once and it made a much less fermentable wort. One mash had rests at 144°F and 158°F, and the other started at 158°F and dropped to 144°F over the course of about an hour and a half. The control wort had about 65% RDF, and the other was about 45%. I don't have the notes with me.

Alpha amylase requires the beta amylase products to produce a reasonably fermentable wort. Doing it in reverse would be easier, but isn't really possible.

3 vol or so would be typical, and at that level they should be fine. I've heard of people having issues starting around 4 vol.

When do the locals say that spring comes to Silverton, weather wise?

We have two seasons, tourist season and off-season. The train starts running in May. ;)

Seriously though, snow in early June isn't unheard of.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Trying to read a Hydrometer
« on: February 04, 2011, 11:10:40 AM »
True, but I haven't come across one that wasn't...not that you're wrong. Just sayin.

Admittedly, I've only bought two of the typical homebrew-shop $8 models, but they were both calibrated at 20°C/68°F. Probably just different brands. The ones we have at the brewery are calibrated at 59°F.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Killing enzymes?
« on: February 04, 2011, 11:08:54 AM »
Kai, do you have a source for the Tm of barley beta- and alpha-amylase?  It might be in one of my books, but google can't find it for me.

About ten minutes at 70°C.

bluesman, I don't think 5°F divisions are going to be good enough for mashing. I use one of these:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Trying to read a Hydrometer
« on: February 04, 2011, 11:02:29 AM »
When calibrating your hydrometer in distilled water at 60F...

Assuming your hydrometer is calibrated at 60°F. ;)

The little slip of paper that came with the hydrometer will tell you the calibration temperature, and probably whether to read the top or bottom of the meniscus.

Isn't it 6 weeks until the actual start of Spring from 2Feb...?

47 or 48 days, so more like seven weeks, but pretty much.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Maibock 2010
« on: January 31, 2011, 10:52:08 PM »
I agree; wait until you see it in the glass. You can add Sinamar at any point.

It does look close to 6-7 SRM to me.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: January 31, 2011, 04:31:48 PM »
2-3 weeks in primary, then bottle or keg. No need to secondary this style IMHO.

When people talk about long primary times leading to off flavors, they generally mean more than a couple months.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Loss of CO2 at higher psi
« on: January 30, 2011, 04:10:53 PM »
I agree that it's probably a leak. The pressure will start to drop once the tank is about 10% full, and even at 30 psi it would only take ~0.3 lb of CO2 to carbonate. I don't think you'd get it fully carbonated in two days either.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: using bottled water
« on: January 27, 2011, 12:55:33 PM »
As far as I'm aware chlorine and chloramine are primarily contraindicated when all grain brewing.

I was under the impression that the main concern associated with chlorine is that it will bind with phenols and produce chlorophenols. In which case the phenolic compounds would primarily be a result of yeast metabolism, and independent of the wort source.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Forced Fermentation Test
« on: January 27, 2011, 08:54:16 AM »
There is one very famous wine yeast that is both POF negative and can ferment maltotriose. It is probably the largest selling wine yeast strain in the world. It is Lalvin K1-V1116. It was used in a beer kit for several years and it was the yeast of choice in a Canadian brew pub for several years.

Ooh, good find. Looks like that one's actually S. cerevisiae:

Might be fun to try it out in a beer wort.

The key will be to give them an abundance of maltotriose, so that as soon as one cell mutated to use it it would have a large competitive advantage over the other cells in the culture.

And for best results, apply regular doses of ionizing radiation.

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