Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - a10t2

Pages: 1 ... 208 209 [210] 211 212 ... 290
3136
Questions about the forum? / Re: White Pages of Death Support Thread
« on: April 01, 2011, 11:16:28 PM »
This actually just happened to me for the first time today. Had to click reload 5-6 times before the page would render.

3137
If you aren't getting full conversion in an hour I think your mash chemistry may be a little out of whack. As long as I get my pH in range I have >90% conversion when I start recirculating at 45 min.

3138
I always mash longer than 1 hour. One hour is not long enough, IMO.

Long enough for what?

3139
Questions about the forum? / Re: Getting weird "index" downloads
« on: April 01, 2011, 05:32:54 AM »
Simple things first: is there any chance you're accidentally holding down whatever key would cause you to download a file instead of rendering it in the browser? By default I think that would be Control.

3140
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Partial Mash Vacation
« on: April 01, 2011, 05:29:27 AM »
I did something similar recently. AG, but a stovetop partial boil. Total time including cleanup was 3:40. It's amazing how low-maintenance a brew day can be once you have everything sorted out. I remember my first few brewing sessions as 8 hour debacles.

I pitched the yeast, cleaned the kettle, put everything away, then checked my watch. "1:30?! What do I do the rest of the day?"

3141
All Grain Brewing / Re: Great Western 2-row vs. Pale Ale
« on: April 01, 2011, 02:14:16 AM »
Depending on how darkly kilned the pale malt is, you may not notice any difference. If it's particularly dark (>3 SRM) you may notice a slightly sweeter or maltier character. If the recipe has a lot of character grains, that difference probably wouldn't even be perceptible.

3142
On the subject of the wort densities being different, I usually wait 10-20 minutes after the whirlpool to transfer so the break can settle.  Is it generally thought this will result in vastly different gravities in the first and second half of the wort?

I'm with Denny on this one. I don't know exactly how long you'd have to boil to homogenize the wort, but I don't think it could be more than a few minutes. Once that happens you just have a uniform sugar solution, well below the saturation point. It shouldn't be possible for anything to precipitate out, so the entire wort column will have a uniform density.

3143
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Cervesa Recipes?
« on: March 30, 2011, 03:24:11 PM »
Well technically lagering just means "storage", not cold storage. ;)

3144
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is a refractometer worth the $$?
« on: March 30, 2011, 03:21:20 PM »
FG readings with my hydrometer (I double checked calibration) 1.025 and 1.024 after adjusted for temperature.  None of them come that close, off by about 5 points across the board.  This is similar to what I saw before.

Thanks for posting this, Tom. The problem you're seeing is due to the fact that the OG range used in the initial data set was 8.8-24.3°P, and outside that range the correlation falls off pretty quickly. I'm seeing this with all the very high- and low-gravity data people have sent in. The other major issue I want to address is that I didn't test any worts with (real) attenuations less than 59%, which I thought was a reasonable floor for typical beers - apparently I was wrong about that, since I've gotten several submissions with RDFs in the 40s. There's going to be a 3.0 release in the next week or two that will hopefully address both issues.

FWIW, the new correlation I'm playing around with (as of now) puts the FGs at:
A: 1.022
B: 1.021

Which still isn't "good enough" IMO, but it's getting there. How confident are you in the 25.5°Bx value? If you'd like I could incorporate it into the new dataset.

Also, how did you cool the sample? I've noticed that if I don't chill it in a sealed container evaporation can increase the gravity significantly. It might not explain the discrepancy in the spreadsheet, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

3145
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is a refractometer worth the $$?
« on: March 29, 2011, 05:52:43 PM »
While this is true, in my experience none of the existing spreadsheets or conversion factors for post fermentation refractometer readings are very accurate.  They are sometimes off by more than 4 points from what my hydrometer reads.

Does "conversion factors" plural mean you've tried mine out and it didn't work for you? As far as I know every other tool uses the same formula.

3146
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Favorite brewing software?
« on: March 29, 2011, 02:45:30 PM »
If you run straight Mac OS X (no Boot Camp), there is currently only one choice: BeerAlchemy.

What about BeerTools Pro, QBrew, Brew Target? Granted that was from memory, so I'm probably forgetting some.

beer_monger, did you try a search? This has been covered many times:
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=406.0
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=6413.0
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=4825.0

3147
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is a refractometer worth the $$?
« on: March 29, 2011, 02:35:12 PM »
I guess I'm not familiar w/ all of their functions.  What target is it you're checking during the boil?  IBU's?  You can't adjust gravity at that point beyond boiling off, right?

Right, but if you take a reading right as you start the boil, but before adding hops, you can adjust the boil length and guarantee you'll hit your target OG exactly.

What 'adjustment' needs to be done to the reading?  Don't you just put a sample on the refractometer & look through to read?

Basically, but there are some subtleties. Pre-fermentation, you need to divide by a "wort correction factor". http://seanterrill.com/2010/06/11/refractometer-estimates-of-final-gravity/

I adressed more of how to use a refractometer in brewing in a BBR interview last year: http://media.libsyn.com/media/basicbrewing/bbr09-02-10refract.mp3

3148
How did you split up the yeast? If you were just eyeballing it I'd chalk it up to that.

Are the fermenters at the same temperature (verified with a calibrated thermometer)?

I've heard that some break material in the fermenter can help with yeast growth, but I doubt the effect would be that dramatic.

3149
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: stuck fermentation ;(
« on: March 28, 2011, 10:27:32 PM »
or should I say: what is the purpose of that test then?

A negative iodine test (if it's done correctly, which is a big "if") tells you that there are no starches left in the wort. It doesn't tell you anything about what kind of sugars you've created. I think that's what Denny was getting at, anyway.

3150
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I'm really doing it! (pics added)
« on: March 28, 2011, 05:43:23 PM »
Also, I don't have a kilt, can I still make beer or am I just wasting my time?

A kilt isn't required per se. As long as you aren't wearing pants the beer will turn out OK.

Pages: 1 ... 208 209 [210] 211 212 ... 290