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Messages - a10t2

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Will it ferment?
« on: December 18, 2010, 04:41:40 PM »
OK, can do a fast ferment test, especially wit bread yeast as per the article, I got plenty of that..... any suggestions on how much bred yeast per volume?

It doesn't really matter. The idea is to pitch an overwhelming amount of yeast and get the fermentation finished as quickly as possible. In a sample that's a few ounces, even a gram of dry yeast would be more than enough.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Transfering to a barrel.....
« on: December 14, 2010, 10:50:00 PM »
Sorry I can't answer your barrel question, but the easiest way to add photos:

1. Go to
2. Drag the photo from your PC into the browser window.
3. Copy and paste the link into a forum post, inside image tags:

Code: [Select]
[img]paste your URL here[/img]

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: All grain conversion
« on: December 14, 2010, 07:10:12 PM »
To get a precise conversion you'll need your efficiency from the AG recipe, but once you have that it's a piece of cake.

Equipment and Software / Re: Malt Mill
« on: December 13, 2010, 10:19:38 PM »
FWIW, I have and like a Barley Crusher, which is adjustable and also fits on a bucket. I'd get an adjustable mill. Over your brewing career the cost difference will be negligible, and you never know when you might need it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ut-Oh...newbie needs a 2nd opinion
« on: December 13, 2010, 06:11:10 PM »
I can't really tell from the pictures. Wait a week and see what happens.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Question about multi step stater
« on: December 13, 2010, 06:08:17 PM »
Is there a reason web calculators aren't an option for you?

The Wyeast calculator ( will let you change from Activator to Propagator.

The MrMalty calculator ( lets you set viability manually, just enter 25%.

It looks like you'll need about a 1.5 L first stage and 3 L second stage, using a stir plate or continuous aeration. Without a stir plate or air pump it would be three stages at 1 L, 2 L, then 5 L.

Ingredients / Re: Building water for a BDS
« on: December 12, 2010, 10:39:34 PM »
I'd be leery of having the sodium that high. I also doubt you'll need the RA all the way up at 188 for a 25 SRM beer.

Personally, I'd do something like .25 g/gal CaCl, 1 g/gal CaCO3, 0.25 g/gal NaCl, 0.5 g/gal NaHCO3, 0.25 g/gal MgSO4. That gives you:

Ca 125
Mg 7
Na 63
SO4 27
Cl 74
HCO3 253
RA ~115

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Refractometer - Which one is best?
« on: December 12, 2010, 05:45:39 PM »
Mine also has an SG scale in addition to Brix which is convenient.

Unfortunately, they're also wrong. The manufacturer didn't convert from Brix to SG correctly.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Banana Taste
« on: December 11, 2010, 08:25:54 PM »
when fresh yeast slurry is mentioned is that the equivalent of me picking up a new package of yeast and activating it in a little sterilized warm water and adding it in or am I way off here?

Yeast slurry is what you would harvest from the fermenter during or after fermentation. The idea is that to restart a stuck fermentation, or to clean up a beer that was racked too early, you want a lot of yeast, and you want it to be relatively fresh. If you don't have any slurry or anyone around who could give you some, your best bet is to make a new starter and pitch it at high krausen.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Banana Taste
« on: December 11, 2010, 08:19:56 PM »
Boy, I've got maybe 10 fermometers and they're remarkably accurate.

Yeah, I have five and they all agree within ~1°F. I've heard that getting them wet can ruin them though - don't know if that could be your issue.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Banana Taste
« on: December 10, 2010, 11:30:33 PM »
How many days is "a few"? A lot of yeast strains will produce banana flavor/aroma early in fermentation and clear them up later. By transferring off the yeast too soon you could have prevented that from happening.

Equipment and Software / Re: Counter top brewery.
« on: December 10, 2010, 11:26:49 PM »
Well, he's handy.  He could design something like a coffee machine.  Dump some crushed grain into a basket filter, pour some water into it, push the button and cooled wort trickles out all ready to be fermented.

I actually designed something pretty similar a couple years ago, thinking maybe there would be a market in the Mr. Beer crowd. Got as far as pricing out the components and realized it would cost more to produce than a proper 5 gal AG brewing setup.

Ingredients / Re: can I turn crystal 40 into crystal 80?
« on: December 10, 2010, 10:05:35 PM »
You could try. Crystal malts are kilned wet though, so you won't get the same results from dry kilning. Maybe it'll be close; I don't know.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using Munich Malt
« on: December 10, 2010, 05:55:58 PM »
The ones I use is the Munich II from Weyermann. It is listed with 20-25 EBC which is about 8 L. Many other  maltsters sell light Munich malt that has the same color.

Wouldn't 20-25 EBC be ~10-12 L? That would be more typical for dark Munich. Light Munich seems to be in the 6-9 L range.

The Pub / Re: We have a gusher!
« on: December 09, 2010, 08:20:02 PM »
Now I kind of want to send some gushers in to comps, just to mess with people.

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