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Messages - a10t2

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When do the locals say that spring comes to Silverton, weather wise?

We have two seasons, tourist season and off-season. The train starts running in May. ;)

Seriously though, snow in early June isn't unheard of.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Trying to read a Hydrometer
« on: February 04, 2011, 11:10:40 AM »
True, but I haven't come across one that wasn't...not that you're wrong. Just sayin.

Admittedly, I've only bought two of the typical homebrew-shop $8 models, but they were both calibrated at 20°C/68°F. Probably just different brands. The ones we have at the brewery are calibrated at 59°F.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Killing enzymes?
« on: February 04, 2011, 11:08:54 AM »
Kai, do you have a source for the Tm of barley beta- and alpha-amylase?  It might be in one of my books, but google can't find it for me.

About ten minutes at 70°C.

bluesman, I don't think 5°F divisions are going to be good enough for mashing. I use one of these:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Trying to read a Hydrometer
« on: February 04, 2011, 11:02:29 AM »
When calibrating your hydrometer in distilled water at 60F...

Assuming your hydrometer is calibrated at 60°F. ;)

The little slip of paper that came with the hydrometer will tell you the calibration temperature, and probably whether to read the top or bottom of the meniscus.

Isn't it 6 weeks until the actual start of Spring from 2Feb...?

47 or 48 days, so more like seven weeks, but pretty much.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Maibock 2010
« on: January 31, 2011, 10:52:08 PM »
I agree; wait until you see it in the glass. You can add Sinamar at any point.

It does look close to 6-7 SRM to me.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: January 31, 2011, 04:31:48 PM »
2-3 weeks in primary, then bottle or keg. No need to secondary this style IMHO.

When people talk about long primary times leading to off flavors, they generally mean more than a couple months.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Loss of CO2 at higher psi
« on: January 30, 2011, 04:10:53 PM »
I agree that it's probably a leak. The pressure will start to drop once the tank is about 10% full, and even at 30 psi it would only take ~0.3 lb of CO2 to carbonate. I don't think you'd get it fully carbonated in two days either.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: using bottled water
« on: January 27, 2011, 12:55:33 PM »
As far as I'm aware chlorine and chloramine are primarily contraindicated when all grain brewing.

I was under the impression that the main concern associated with chlorine is that it will bind with phenols and produce chlorophenols. In which case the phenolic compounds would primarily be a result of yeast metabolism, and independent of the wort source.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Forced Fermentation Test
« on: January 27, 2011, 08:54:16 AM »
There is one very famous wine yeast that is both POF negative and can ferment maltotriose. It is probably the largest selling wine yeast strain in the world. It is Lalvin K1-V1116. It was used in a beer kit for several years and it was the yeast of choice in a Canadian brew pub for several years.

Ooh, good find. Looks like that one's actually S. cerevisiae:

Might be fun to try it out in a beer wort.

The key will be to give them an abundance of maltotriose, so that as soon as one cell mutated to use it it would have a large competitive advantage over the other cells in the culture.

And for best results, apply regular doses of ionizing radiation.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Forced Fermentation Test
« on: January 26, 2011, 02:34:49 PM »
Apologies for the thread drift, but does anyone have experience using wine yeasts to do a FFT?

I'm sure it would work, but the results wouldn't be applicable to the fermenter with the beer yeast. AFAIK no wine yeast strains can ferment maltotriose, so the FFT gravity would likely be higher than the main batch.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I tried to make tap handles
« on: January 25, 2011, 11:09:38 PM »
 my brewery

Dragging it further off-topic, but I must have missed this the first time around. Keith, great-looking site! Now those big beautiful pics of the beers need to link to something - maybe some recipe details for us home brewers? ;)

There are about a half-dozen utilization correlations in common use, and there can be some pretty extreme variations between them. The best thing to do is settle on one and use only it, so that at least you'll be able to compare numbers between recipes.

I like Glenn Tinseth's:

That's also the curve that Palmer uses in the link tygo posted.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Waxing caps
« on: January 23, 2011, 06:51:11 PM »
I've only done it once, but what I did was put the wax into a can, then put that into a pot of water on the stove. A double boiler, essentially. Then just invert the bottles, dunk them in the wax for a few seconds, spin, and set them aside to dry.

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