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Messages - a10t2

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Equipment and Software / Re: Unibrau V3
« on: October 26, 2017, 11:06:24 AM »
My first thought is that you could probably put together something functionally equivalent but less shiny for about half the price using a turkey fryer with the included basket.

Tri-clamps are nice, but they seem especially extravagant for a BIAB system. You're going to change one hose connection per brew day.

Do you have a pump and/or heat exchanger now? I'm wondering if the 12 W rating on the pump is accurate too; that's ~1/60 HP. Would probably make for pretty low flow rate through the plate chiller.

Are you brewing electric now? A 1500 W element takes almost two hours to heat 10 gal of strike liquor. Something to think about.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Clorado Question
« on: October 25, 2017, 11:34:23 AM »
All else being equal, I would expect fermentation to go a little faster at lower pressure. I've never fermented down there at low elevation though. ;D

I wouldn't do any adjustments until your papers and meter are in agreement. A single data point gives you no indication which is off.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cellar Temperatures
« on: October 23, 2017, 09:28:52 AM »
If you're aging things in the sense that they're big beers that need a little extra time for the yeast to clean up, I'd go with room temperature to keep the yeast active. For general storage, I always keep things as cold as possible so any commercial beers I buy go in the kegerator at ~43°F.

Remember that as a rough rule, a month at room temperature is like two months at cellar temps or four months in the fridge.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: A Sneak Peek
« on: October 22, 2017, 07:53:38 PM »
I'm going to write it up and post all the pictures tomorrow, but for now I'm off to have the inaugural beer from each tap.

I guess not really, because the draft system's all the same, though.

And I think the SRM looks a little falsely elevated because I used Rahr grain in the instructions say to add 3L to that because they acidify their malt?

I don't think that would change anything though. Even if the beer is actually more like 6 SRM, it's exhibiting the pH effect of a 9 SRM beer.

SRM 9 .1 and estimated room temperature mash pH of 5.41 (after water adjustment next).

Water adjustment:  Set to distilled water at dilution 100%. I used yellow dry profile and got close with overall finished profile of: calcium=52, magnesium=9, sodium=5, Sulfate=102, chloride=50, bicarbonate=NA.

It does sound like you're missing something in the sheet. That would have an RA of ~-50, which would be fine for a yellow beer as indicated, but you're verging on amber and would almost always need an RA >0. Are you sure you weren't supposed to add some carbonate salts?

I'm inclined to think your pH strips are closer to reality than the 5.7 reading from the meter.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation timeline with wlp007
« on: October 21, 2017, 01:51:02 PM »
Are you monitoring beer temperature? 68°F air temperature would be on the warm side.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mashtun recommendations
« on: October 18, 2017, 11:11:03 AM »
I brew in a cooler, following the instructions of your web, and I've never been able to get more than 70% (2 runoffs). Last sunday I brewed a hefeweizen and I got just 60%. I'd like to be around 80%.

If you're batch- or no-sparging, it's easy to check your predicted efficiency:

If you aren't getting close to the predicted efficiency (which will be >80% for any average-gravity beer), it means either time, temperature, pH, or crush is out of range. Barring something obvious like excessive dough balls.

They probably were using North American 2-row with high DP, right?

Primarily pilsner malt, but same principle.

Sean Terril is active on here, maybe he will see this.

I see it! Don't know that I can summarize any better than what's been said though. ;D

I believe that fermentability and attenuation can be strongly influenced by shortening or lengthening the mashing duration.

I've seen that firsthand at a brewery that had an under-sized grain mill. It would take 60-80 minutes to mash in for big beers, and even jumping immediately into vorlauf (i.e. no mash "rest"), there was nothing we could do to drive down attenuation.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation Stone and sanitaion
« on: October 16, 2017, 07:52:53 PM »
...To elaborate, the stainless won't be harmed, but the stone will definitely get clogged over time. You'll want to rig up a way to circulate your cleaning and sanitizing solutions through the stone in both directions when you break it down.

Kegging and Bottling / A Sneak Peek
« on: October 13, 2017, 07:11:56 PM »

Equipment and Software / Re: Barley Crusher Revolutions per Pound
« on: October 13, 2017, 06:34:48 PM »
Mine runs about 60 cranks/lb, maybe because I'm crushing finer? I have it down to .030".

I'd say there's no reason not to use as much as you can within equipment limitations. It'll be less expensive and arguably improve quality.

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