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Messages - realbeerguy

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: craft brewery & local homebrew club
« on: September 08, 2014, 09:03:56 AM »
Our local in Savannah brews the winning BOS from our Summer Suds competition.  (Which I won this year, I might add!)

Also, they are great about providing slurry when available.  As to sacks of grain, they do not.  They do not want to step on the LHBS's business.

Equipment and Software / Re: ball valve or butterfly valve
« on: August 27, 2014, 07:35:21 AM »

There are also sanitary fully encapsulated ball valves that prevent trapping liquid behind the ball.

Typically they are cavity  filler seats.  Still by nature, a ball valve is not completely sanitary.

Beer Recipes / Re: American Mild
« on: August 24, 2014, 07:30:40 PM »
I made a dark English Mild recently.  I decided to mash at 160 and use London Ale yeast, so the gravity went from 1.039 to 1.019 after three weeks.  I like drinking Imperial Pints of it without guilt.

When I was working on my Dark Mild last year,  Denny suggested London Ale III.  It was the missing link.

Denny, I think that you are on the right track with one exception.  Go with a single hop charge upfront with American hop, Chinnock would be a good choice and dry hop.  Mashing at 160 dF will give nice body, low alchohol, and the dryhop will shine thrugh.

Other Fermentables / Re: Fast mead fermentation
« on: August 23, 2014, 06:52:30 PM »
I've heard Ken Schramm say that with the right nutrients and conditions it shouldn't take more than a week.

That is correct and he says he ferments in the 62-63F range.

This for 71b

Equipment and Software / Re: ball valve or butterfly valve
« on: August 23, 2014, 06:51:11 PM »
I will be the big dissenter here. If you can afford butterfly valves go with them. They are much easier to clean and way more sanitary. I absolutely hate ball valves and the blickmann ones that disassemble are huge PITA to clean. With butterfly valves you open and soak me and rinse em and sanitize them and yer good to go.

As I have said before, the only true sanitary valve is a butterfly or a diaphragm valve.  Media will get trapped behind the seat in the valve cavity.  With that said, the homebrew alternative is to get a 3-piece valve that you can disassemble and fully clean.  The downside to a bfv or diaphragm is that the seat is closse to the flame if you are using gas.  You must make sure that there is no EPDM or Viton in the seat or seals that may melt.  TFE is ok.

We need the Professor to chime in here.

Tried a Ballantine XXX clone a while back with no success.  IIRC, East Coast Yeast has the original yeast.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New guy
« on: August 09, 2014, 06:01:32 PM »
Welcome!  If you're near Savannah, PM me.

Oh & yes, we have good amners.

Homebrew Clubs / Re: AHA Club Insurance Program
« on: August 08, 2014, 09:36:10 AM »
I would think there is a need for better Club recognition, such as clubs required to provide yearly rosters of paid members, up to date by-laws.  The way it stands now a club could pay for 3-4 members, even though there are more than that in the club.  I would think that the Broker & the Carrier would want a more accurate count other than one done on the honor system.  The real test will be when the first claim is filed.

Was the premium per member ever thought to be a portion of the AHA dues?  This way there is a defined number that the underwriters can use in determining premium.  In addition, it could be a way to increase AHA membership with the clubs driving the membership rolls.

Homebrew Clubs / Re: AHA Club Insurance Program
« on: August 07, 2014, 06:22:49 PM »
We talked about this last night with the limited info available.  We'll go ahead & enroll so AHA doesn't lose the rollout, however, there are questions that need to be addressed.

What is the status if you belong to more than one club?

Do we need to record the non-members who attend the meetings and outside club functions.

We'll have more when our steering committee meets later this month.

It's a great idea that may need some tweeking.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pump or new burner
« on: July 19, 2014, 07:51:30 AM »
Get a pump & go electric

Beer Recipes / Re: English Summer Ale
« on: July 16, 2014, 01:57:05 PM »
Pale Ale malt base.  Mash 156-158 dF

Beer Recipes / Re: German Hefeweizen
« on: July 16, 2014, 01:55:43 PM »
Personally I like a traditional hefeweizen going 50/50 wheat and pilsner malts and one charge of Hallertauer at 60 minutes for roughly 15 IBU using 3068 to ferment at 68oF

In all I'd say your recipe works, just not sure you need the Vienna or the flame out hops

This, but @62dF

Beer Recipes / Re: Weizenporter?
« on: July 05, 2014, 06:01:26 PM »
Do your standard porter recipe with a tad more wheat.  Ferment a little higher, let the banana come out.

Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 05:55:28 PM »
Basically everything Eric said.  D47 is good to leave on the lees.  If you want to have a quicker turn, 71b-1122 may be the way to go.  If you can do a swamp cooler to get below 70dF, do it.  I'ts worth the effort to ferment in the low 60's to minimize the creation of fusals.  Nutrient & degas to 50% sugar depletion, typically 3-4 days.  Total fermentation should be around 30 days to complete and let the yeast do some clean up.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg beer line survey
« on: July 04, 2014, 05:41:39 PM »
3/16" x 10' x 12 psi x 38F here :)
This here in a collared chest freezer.

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