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Messages - tschmidlin

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: payment plan for lifetime membership
« on: October 21, 2010, 05:18:36 PM »
Payment plan euge, payment plan.  I think they were looking for an option other than lump sum.  ;)

Ingredients / Re: Water Profile help for FW Union Jack-extract
« on: October 21, 2010, 05:16:14 PM »
Well, there is no reason to worry about the calcium levels, that is mostly important in the mash and you're not mashing (except for that Munich).

Calcium also is important to yeast (particularly flocculation) and precipitates oxalate early on reducing beer stone later. I think this latter point is the most important for homebrewers who rarely consider beerstone in their cleaning regimen.

I am actually skeptical that calcium is all that important in the mash as bohemian pilsener mashes, assuming pH is controlled via acid, seem to be every bit as robust as any other mash, at least in my brewery (and presumably bohemian breweries as they can but are not adding calcium).

That said, I tend to think 30 ppm is probably plenty and 50 is very conservatively high.
Fair enough, calcium is necessary for flocculation.  But you really don't need much at all, so it's not really worth worrying about IMO.  Yeast strain plays a much larger role in my experience.

Re: calcium in mashes, what is your water profile like?  Maybe 50 ppm is higher than it needs to be, or maybe at 50 ppm you convert faster and more confidently without testing for conversion (I haven't checked for conversion in years).

Those are nice and would work really well.  Quite a bit more pricey than the others, but in more manageable quantities.  I mean, it's nice to get 1000 for $20, but then you have 1000 tubes . . .

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cooling my wort (new brewer)
« on: October 21, 2010, 04:19:29 PM »
pre-boiled ice.
Hilarious when taken by itself  ;D

Other Fermentables / Re: Kvas
« on: October 21, 2010, 07:20:46 AM »
I'd love to see more as you have time to do them.  No rush though, and no pressure.

If you're talking about autoclaving the tubes, yeah, they'll melt.  If you're just talking about adding autoclaved agar to them, it should be fine as long as you let it cool sufficiently before you add it to the tube.

On the other hand, glass tubes can be gotten cheaply.  I don't know what you'll do with 1000 of them, but these are inexpensive and (comparatively) in your area.  Add some parafilm and you'll be set for a long time. :)

Other Fermentables / Re: Kvas
« on: October 21, 2010, 06:48:43 AM »
That's really cool, thanks for posting it.  I don't know that I'll try it any time soon, but I'd like to make some kvass at some point. :)

This should give you a good idea of what I'll be doing this weekend . . .  ;D

All Things Food / Re: BBQ Style
« on: October 21, 2010, 05:04:43 AM »
The problem appears to be the cherry wood dust.  I dried it in the oven as you suggested, and could not get it to remain lit.  After several more tries and failures I switched and dried some hickory dust in the oven and then started it up.  It's still going and will for a few more hours at least.  It is currently going in the box setup I made.

Here are some pics from the failed attempts, when it was still light out.  As you can see, I sat it on a baking sheet with a couple of foil-wrapped bricks (I use them for weighting stuff down when I need to, like when I make corned beef) to hold up the cheese.

I put the box resting on one end of the baking sheet, to let a little more air in, but it looks pretty much like this.  The top brick is to cover slit in the box and to the wind from blowing it around.  It should keep critters from getting in there too, but they might not be interested in the smoky smell anyway.

The Pub / Re: Distilling
« on: October 21, 2010, 04:48:16 AM »
Now where were we?  Oh yes, anarchy.  Denny, were you responsible for the WTO riots in Seattle?   ;D

Nah, I was an upstanding hippie businessman by that point.  Those were just kids!   :)
Your minions though, right?  ;)

The Pub / Re: Distilling
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:37:04 PM »
After much discussion, this thread will allowed to continue as long as the content doesn't stray into the distillation process.  This corresponds with the trend of breweries getting involved with distillation.  We've put a lot of effort into disproving the notion that homebrewers are moonshiners and don't feel that the organization as a whole benefits from discussions that confuse that effort.

Why is everyone so afraid to talk about this?  This isn't Nazi Germany for crying out loud.  Freedom of Speech!  Stand up for your First Amendment rights!
First of all, Godwin's Law.

Second of all, you know what makes me crazy?  People who don't understand the First Amendment.

Freedom of speech only refers to the government restricting speech.  Not your employer, not business owners, and certainly not moderators on an internet message board.  You have no right to free speech on this board.

Now where were we?  Oh yes, anarchy.  Denny, were you responsible for the WTO riots in Seattle?   ;D

All Grain Brewing / Re: "double" sparge in a batch sparge
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:26:49 PM »
Pretty's a hybrid method I've heard referred to as "Super Fly".  It's also the way Mike Dixon sparges.  Like the OP said, the real solution is to get a bigger cooler.  I've got a 152 qt. that I break out for extra large or high gravity batches.  65 lb. of grain at 1.5 qt./lb. and it's only 2/3 full.

That is one big cooler.  So what do you make with 65 lbs of grain?  10 gallons of something big, or just more of a regular strength beer?

Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:21:23 PM »
I would make IPA with that water as is, and use distilled/DI water with a little of it added to make a Czech pils.  German pilsners generally have higher mineral content than Plzen, so depending on the kind you're going for your water could be fine - it has some similarities to Dortmund water.

How much did it cost to get it tested?  I tried some of my local places but they all wanted way more than Ward Labs.

All Grain Brewing / Re: "double" sparge in a batch sparge
« on: October 20, 2010, 08:16:05 PM »
3)   Or should I just add as much sparge water as I can when starting the second runoff, and then just keep topping it off until I’ve added what I need?

That would probably work just as well.
Isn't that pretty much fly sparging Denny? :)

Without seeing your recipe, my first suggestion is don't rack to a secondary vessel.  It's rarely necessary, and it's unlikely your first time recipe needs it.  You can do your "secondary" in the primary vessel after most of the fermentation is done.

Second, if that is an accurate reading that is way over diluted - that doesn't mean it won't be good, but I think you need to accept that the finished beer is going to taste exactly like the recipe is supposed to.  To get from 1.054 to 1.072 you're going to need about 3 lbs of maple syrup.  That's going to be pretty fermentable and thin out the body of the beer.  I think you'll be happier if you just add 8 oz of maple syrup to the primary vessel and call it good.  Since fermentation has slowed or stopped, you'll still retain the aroma from the maple syrup (which is why you would add it to secondary) without having to deal with the hassle of racking the beer.

Let us know how it turns out.  :)

PS - Welcome to the hobby.  ;D

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