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Messages - tschmidlin

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Are you sure the gas is actually flowing into the keg?  Because it should force carbonate if there's gas there, and if the leak is so slow that it didn't drain the tank then the keg should be holding enough pressure to carbonate the beer.

Don't add more priming sugar, if you choose to go that route just warm it up.  The sugar is probably still there and the beer will carbonate.  It might need some yeast added though.  This is just a weird situation.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 pressure leaking through the relief valve
« on: September 01, 2010, 06:28:32 AM »
you can get replacement stems from foxx equipment co, they're only a few bucks, i will also send a couple of those out since shipping on em is nothing
Do you know what page of their catalog they're on?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Yeast book now on sale - coupon code??
« on: September 01, 2010, 06:21:00 AM »
Mine too.

If you can't find it, imma suggest you email Kathryn and ask her to resend it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Storing Fresh Hops
« on: September 01, 2010, 06:10:37 AM »
You are going to boil the hell out them anyway. There is nothing like making fresh hop beers in the dead of winter!
Exactly, who cares if they get mushy?  It doesn't matter how they look, there's no grade for presentation. :)

But I would freeze them in measured amounts so you don't have to try to chip 5 oz off of your "hop block"!

Pimp My System / Re: Arctic Brewery and Mobile Fermentation Trailer
« on: September 01, 2010, 06:07:27 AM »
I tracked some of them down.  Wow.  That's all I'm going to say.

It was 2002, when people here might have heard of the Taliban. :)

Ingredients / Re: SRM of Brewers Licorice
« on: September 01, 2010, 03:35:18 AM »
can you get darker than black?
Exactly!   ;D

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Starters at Lager Temps?
« on: September 01, 2010, 03:33:25 AM »
Yeah, the short answer is lots.

The long answer is it depends.  There is an element of randomness in where mutations occur, and I imagine it will take several accumulated mutations in the right spots to make the yeast incapable of fermenting at cool temperatures any more.  That's my best guess anyway, the S. cerevisiae (ale) genome is well studied, the S. pastorianus (lager) genome less so.  Any cell that picked up the mutations to prevent it from fermenting cold will only pass those on to its daughter cells, so over a few generations you'll end up with a handful of cells with those mutations, out of billions of cells that are just fine.

Although there are genes in S. cerevisiae that help it ferment at lower temperatures, I'm guessing that the ability to ferment at lower temps is something that came from the S. bayanus (wine) side of the family (lager yeasts are the result of a hybridization between ale and wine yeasts) but it's not clear to me how many genes are relevant.  Or it's possible there is some novel mutation or gene duplication event that allows for the lower fermentation event, or even some kind of synergistic effect from the combined gene products of the two strains.  It's possible this stuff is known, but I'm not up on the literature.  If I had research money to study it, I totally would.  Anyone got some spare cash lying around? :)

Anyway, all lager yeasts should grow well at warm temps, you're not in danger of selecting for warm fermenting but not cold fermenting cells unless they pick up some mutation that lets them ferment warm better than the lager yeast does.  It's just that you're no longer selecting for only cold fermenting cells, so you could hypothetically end up with some small percentage that will not ferment cold anymore.  Those will go dormant as soon as you pitch into your lager wort anyway, so it's no problem.

I'm going to guess that Wyeast and White Labs both grow their lager strains at warm temps for cell mass.  Growing at lower temps would take a longer time to get the same cell count and they'd probably have to charge more for lager strains due to tying up the incubators for longer periods of time.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Munich Helles fermentation temp?
« on: September 01, 2010, 02:39:18 AM »
I don't think you'll want to go to 10 generations:

It's been a while since I read the whole article, but I seem to remember a rule of thumb of 7 generations for lager yeasts.  If I have time I'll go through it again.

All Grain Brewing / Re: rice hull percentage
« on: September 01, 2010, 02:34:33 AM »

Keep in mind that all of the draining happens at the cooler outlet, so a longer braid doesn't really provide more "space" for the wort to run through.

But a longer braid does provide more surface area to gather and channel the wort to the outlet which could make a difference with compressed grain beds and gummy grains like wheat and rye.

Just a thought

That's what I was thinking too, but it sounds like it's not a problem for these guys.

Do you tilt the mash tun a little bit to aid in the wort flowing to the channel?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Storing Fresh Hops
« on: September 01, 2010, 02:28:08 AM »
Mold and composting of the hops are a huge problem.  If you're going to keep them room temp you need to keep good air flow, so paper instead of plastic for sure, and in small quantities.  I think I would be tempted to freeze them in an air tight container to prevent them from degrading, especially since you are going to use them in a few days.  If you leave them in a pile fresh, they will start to break down "within hours" according to James Altweis (I think that's who said it).

All Grain Brewing / Re: rice hull percentage
« on: August 31, 2010, 09:23:39 PM »
most of the time a shorter braid works better.
Can you explain this too* Denny?  How short are we talking about?  How long should the braid be for that 70 qt cooler we were talking about in the other thread?  I know I said I got it to use as a cooler and not a mash tun, but as long as I have it I might as well try it out, right? :)

*And go and answer the other thing I asked you about.

All Things Food / Re: BBQ Style
« on: August 31, 2010, 09:13:55 PM »
Mostly when I see tri-tip here it is prepackaged with marinade.  I don't remember the brand, but I've tried them and they're decent.

Tri-tip chili . . . that sounds great (well, any chili sounds great), I'll have to try that.

The cold temp will definitely keep the yeast from carbonating the keg, but it's an either/or thing.  Either prime with sugar or force carbonate with CO2.

If you mean you put some pressure on the keg and let it sit cold, then added sugar and got no carbonation, your problem is the yeast won't work when it's too cold.

If you mean you had constant pressure on the keg and let it sit cold and it didn't carbonate, then a leak is the most likely suspect as euge said.

All Grain Brewing / Re: rice hull percentage
« on: August 31, 2010, 06:22:23 PM »
I'll throw in a pound when doing a batch with a lot of wheat.  I don't really know how much it helps, I've never tried the same recipe without the rice hulls.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 31, 2010, 05:53:36 PM »
So, you're saying the Johnson will turn on the bulb when the temp drops below say 65F?
Exactly.  Like I said it's easy to do, although if you're not comfortable working with electrical bits you might find someone to help you with it.

And test it and label it before you use it, because if you forget which way is which you could end up freezing your beer :)

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