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Messages - Jimmy K

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Interesting Judging Phenomenon
« on: January 31, 2014, 02:42:10 PM »
I think this is more like the "I don't want to look stupid" effect. You're given 5 identical items and told to rate them. If you say they are identical, you run the risk of being wrong and showing that you can't discern between them. Then you look stupid. Since you don't want to look stupid, you "find" differences.
I think the 'finding differences' is sub-conscious. But you have to be very confident in your own abilities to tell the person organizing that they are wrong.

All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Brew ... Advice?
« on: January 31, 2014, 02:33:09 PM »
I used to brew with a 10 gallon mash tun and one pot.
You often loose some heat moving from pot to cooler. I put water in the cooler first so I can check the temperature before adding grain. If it's too low you can pull some out and bring it to a boil.
Are you going to drain the mash tun into another container, then add sparge water? I used to drain into my bottling bucket. Add heated sparge water to the tun. Then pour the first runnings into the kettle. Lots of lifting, but it works.
If you haven't done a full boil before, watch it carefully. With 8 gallons it will be kind of close to the top. The first hop addition seems to invigorate the boil and briefly increase foaming, probably because it adds nucleation sites. After a massive boil over last year I always turn the gas off for that.
Kitchen vs stove side burner? Not sure which is more powerful. Some kitchen stoves aren't powerful enough to boil 8 gallons. Some are. Same is true with grill burners I'm sure. You can partially cover the pot to help. In Pheonix maybe you can position some mirrors around the pot to reflect sunlight at it.  ;D   But really, I'd use whichever looks like it has a bigger flame.

Ingredients / Re: Wheat varieties
« on: January 31, 2014, 02:18:20 PM »
Of course ...
Clear enough, but things are never so simple: The terms are not used worldwide. In Western Europe the term “hard” wheat refers to durum wheats, which are grown for pasta production. “Soft” wheats are any cultivars of a common genus, Triticum aestivum. Elsewhere, the terms are understood to mark distinctions within T. aestivum.

Ingredients / Re: Wheat varieties
« on: January 31, 2014, 02:16:51 PM »
No, I should get that one. The bookshelf's getting crowded!
The club used hard red wheat in a beer several years ago. It was a pain to mill!

Equipment and Software / Re: All Grain setup
« on: January 31, 2014, 02:01:43 PM »
I have the same mash tun. It's good for most 5 gallon batches and can handle 10 gallon batches up to 4-5% (at which point it is full to the top). I would not use a cooler as an HLT because if the water cools too much you can't apply heat. I use a burner and pot for HLT.
Another problem is that there is heat loss when you transfer to the cooler. With a cooler HLT, you must transfer twice. I just think it would be harder to predict the heat loss.
So I like the mash tun but there are times when I wish I bought a 15 gallon mash tun for big 10 gallon batches. You can buy a propane burner and pot with valve cheaper than the HLT portion.

Also, this is set up for fly sparging and I love batch sparging.

Ingredients / Wheat varieties
« on: January 31, 2014, 01:48:05 PM »
Anyone know what kind of raw wheat is preferred for brewing? Homebrew shops usually have wheat berries labeled white and red. But my local baking shop has red and white, winter and spring, hard and soft. For baking, hard spring has the highest protein (gluten) and usually becomes bread flour. Hard winter has lower protein, usually becomes all purpose flour. Soft wheat is cake and pastry flour. Red vs white affects flavor and color more than protein I believe.
Anyone know which is preferred for brewing?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: national home brew comp
« on: January 31, 2014, 03:55:21 AM »
What equipment do you have to bottle with?

- Sent by Tapatalk TARDIS Edition

The Pub / Re: No Tailgating, No Problem
« on: January 30, 2014, 02:03:55 PM »
Did you click the link? They have a solution and it's genius!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Over pitching
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:32:50 AM »
Huh, there may be more to this than I'm aware of. My info on overpitching is mostly hearsay.  Acetylaldehyde is caused by stress, so if overpitching stresses the yeast that's not surprising.

I think its the pressure of having so much liquid on top that speeds autolysis. Better process control can help by not creating the flavors that need to be cleaned too.

Events / Re: NHC 2014 - Lottery System for Registration?
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:06:59 AM »
Quick question about the Grand Banquet & Awards Ceremony.  Is this worth attending?  What is the general event like/for....obviously assuming it is an awards ceremony.  Is it worth for an average homebrewer and non-comp entry to attend? 
The dinner is great. Several courses of beer-centric food, made with beer, paired with beer from a partnered commercial brewery. Last year it was Rogue and the chef said they used like 7 kegs to cook with.
The awards is fun, but like any other awards. Long. We knew people in the final round, so that made it exciting.

If you get the same gravity reading for 3 days In a row, then fermentation is over. You want to rack it to secondary so that it does not sit on the trub in primary for longer than needed.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Actually, yeast will absorb some off flavors like diacetyl and acetylaldehyde if the beer is left on the yeast for a week more. Yeast autolysis is not a concern in homebrewing for several more weeks. It's a much bigger problem in commercial scale fermenters.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Over pitching
« on: January 30, 2014, 12:58:42 AM »
From what I've heard, it's hard to over pitch. You'd need to pitch a ton of yeast, like double or triple?. It would ferment quicker with more cells to do the work. Many of the yeast derived flavors (good ones) are created during the growth phase, when cells are multiplying. If you overpitch, you shorten the growth phase and reduce those flavors. This is probably more important in styles with dominant yeast flavors. There might be other effect too.

I know someone who let his beer get up to 90-ish with a similar mistake - no problems.

Equipment and Software / Re: Hydroflask Growler Filler
« on: January 29, 2014, 08:30:54 PM »
I think it is the hydroflask that's being filled with beer.

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