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Messages - Jimmy K

Pages: 1 ... 80 81 [82] 83 84 ... 244
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Fizz drops
« on: January 17, 2014, 02:04:09 PM »
I wouldn't buy them. But if I got them for free, I'd definitely use them. At the least, you'll know exactly why you should or should not use them in the future. The experience is worth a gallon of beer to me.

General Homebrew Discussion / Beer with Strangers Podcast
« on: January 17, 2014, 02:01:30 PM »
A local guy started a weekly brewing podcast that is recorded at our LHBS and had me on yesterday. It was pretty cool. The shop owner, Doug, helped Dogfish get started back when they were brewing on a wee sabco.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter Timing
« on: January 16, 2014, 08:30:46 PM »
EDIT:  And will it have enough time in 24 hrs to reproduce to close to the amount of yeast I'll need?
24 hours on a stir plate should get you close. MrMalty recommends 2 vials into 2.5L starter for 11G.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Classic American Pilsner
« on: January 15, 2014, 08:11:47 PM »
I don't think they drank anything approaching the hop levels of todays beers. Nobody was making hops bombs because hops were expensive (they still are).  But the lessening of flavor started long before prohibition too. Refrigeration probably freed brewers to use less hops because they depended on preservative qualities a little less.  CAP probably had bitterness similar to a german pilsner because it was german immigrant brewers who came here and tried to brew the beers they knew with local ingredients.

IPA is nothing like it was either. It doesn't sit in casks in the bottom of a ship for six months before being drunk.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Hydrating US-05
« on: January 15, 2014, 03:24:46 PM »
It is easy to rehydrate. Sprinkle dry yeast onto 10 times the amount of water by weight (11g yeast into 110g water, which is 110mL, which is almost 1/2 cup. Water should be 90-100F. Let sit for 15 minutes. Stir into a slurry and pitch. If there is a huge temperature difference between the yeast and wort you might want to temper the yeast by adding small amounts of wort.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sunlight On My IPA!
« on: January 15, 2014, 02:59:14 PM »
Don't be too skeptical, it's happened to me on a number of occasions. I've left a glass of IPA in sunlight for a few minutes and could pick up skunky notes. Not saying the beer was ruined. But the notes were there.
OK, I will be less skeptical.

I can remember a story from Matt Brendleson on BN where he said he had hop residue on his hands and clothes and walked into sunlight and he smelled like skunky weed.
Wait, doesn't the reaction need ethanol? Or is it something else not present before fermentation? This is why we can boil in the sunlight, but not ferment.

Equipment and Software / Re: Brew Kettle upgrade
« on: January 15, 2014, 02:17:58 PM »
Remember, all we are doing is giving you something to think about before you upgrade.  you will make great beer in your current pot.  You dont even need to upgrade your current pot, just put a spigot on it since you where looking to upgrade to a pot of the same size with a spigot anyway.

That's true. Get a step drill bit and a weldless valve fitting and you'll have a valve for under $50.

Typical scenario we TRY not to fall into.
Brewer guy: Hey internet, I'm thinking of buying a $25 gadget.
Internet: If you're thinking of getting that, you might as well upgrade to an automated, 20G RIMS system. You'll save time/money/sweat/marriages in the long run.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sunlight On My IPA!
« on: January 15, 2014, 02:08:44 PM »
A little story about how fast a well hopped beer can skunk:

I was hanging out with some friends getting ready to grill some food on a beautiful sunny day.  I poured myself an IPA and walked outside to fire up the grill. I set my glass on the deck railing (in direct sunlight), lit the grill, turned around and grabbed my beer, put it to my nose and it was skunked  >:( It was maybe 20 seconds!
Sorry but I am a little skeptical. Drinking beer in the sun is not uncommon. If this were true, beer gardens, beer festivals, tailgate parties, and more would serve horrible beer.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Classic American Pilsner
« on: January 15, 2014, 01:46:49 PM »
Because it's classic!   :P

This was one of the beers on my tasting exam. It was a torpedo! Never saw it coming! Baaahhh!! You only see it brewed commercially as brewpub exclusives and such.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chest freezer concern
« on: January 15, 2014, 01:05:33 AM »
If the concern is hurting yourself (as opposed to avoiding aggravating an existing injury) just doin git correctly is the best bet.
I would argue that it's impossible to lift a carboy in and out of a chest freezer correctly. The wall prevents you from getting it close to your body or using your legs.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chest freezer concern
« on: January 14, 2014, 06:21:59 PM »
The handles on a BruHauler help keep "better" lifting form.
They are great, although getting a full carboy out of a freezer will always be awkward.

You could also use CO2 to push beer out of the carboy and into a keg or bottling bucket.

- Sent by my R2 unit

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Calculating correct OG
« on: January 14, 2014, 02:16:33 PM »
Looks correct to me!

- Sent by my R2 unit

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Extract boil volume
« on: January 14, 2014, 12:54:46 PM »
Oh yes, on to my coffee now

- Sent by my R2 unit

Ok. You didn't happen to measure FG with a refractometer?

- Sent by my R2 unit

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Extract boil volume
« on: January 14, 2014, 12:50:10 PM »
If you have space in your kettle for 6 gallons, go for the full boil. You want a boil that breaks the surface of the wort. A full boil helps coagulate proteins, drive away off flavors, and more. It doesn't need to boil violently though. I don't think you can judge boil intensity by temperature though.

- Sent by my R2 unit

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