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Messages - Jimmy K

Pages: 1 ... 91 92 [93] 94 95 ... 242
1381
Ingredients / Re: Adding Chai Concentrate
« on: November 05, 2013, 12:08:47 PM »
If I do go with the concentrate with sugar, do I just subtract the amount of sugar I am using from how much priming sugar I was planning on using? Never ran into this issue before...
Yep. I've primed with syrups and juice concentrates using the g/serving of sugar on the label. 14g = 0.5oz

1382
Ingredients / Re: oat malt
« on: November 05, 2013, 09:00:40 AM »
There is an article about oat malt and a 100% oat malt pale ale recipe in the July/August 2007 Zymurgy. Drew wrote it.

1383
Ingredients / Re: Adding Chai Concentrate
« on: November 05, 2013, 08:53:17 AM »
Does it contain any sugar? If you've bottle conditioning and it contains sugar, you'll need to reduce your priming sugar.

1384
Equipment and Software / Re: wort chiller recommendation for a 1 bbl system
« on: November 05, 2013, 08:48:21 AM »
Plate chillers are much faster with a pump. The space is so thin though that there is a lot of resistance to flow. Buy a pump before a second chiller. Hot water is also a great way to sanitized them.

running hot wort through a pump before the wort chiller could cause any oxidation due to hot aeration? i've used a march pump at 190F and there is a lot cavitation, could that affect?
Assuming all connections are tight, there should be no oxidation risk since there is no way to introduce oxygen into the system. Any cavitation would be steam or gases that were already dissolved in the wort. Make sure the pump head is oriented correctly to clear out trapped air/steam. http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=11157.0
 

1385
Equipment and Software / Re: wort chiller recommendation for a 1 bbl system
« on: November 04, 2013, 08:33:21 PM »
Plate chillers are much faster with a pump. The space is so thin though that there is a lot of resistance to flow. Buy a pump before a second chiller. Hot water is also a great way to sanitized them.

1386
The Pub / Re: Any statisticians here?
« on: November 04, 2013, 07:17:10 PM »
I got skills. Depends what exactly you need I guess.

Edit: I'd PM you, but there are three denny's in the system.


1387
Nice! I just found out I passed too (beer, not mead)

- Sent by my R2 unit


1388
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: DFH Festina Peche
« on: October 30, 2013, 09:53:57 AM »
The first version at the pub was the most tart and it has been getting gentler since then. I thought this years was too 'canned preachy' if that's a term.

- Sent by my R2 unit


1389
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging pressure question...
« on: October 29, 2013, 10:14:21 AM »
1.  42 F set on the kegerator
2.  12 PSI
3.  They are left at 12 PSI until empty
4.  12 PSI
About the same. If I want beer carbonated quickly, I roll the cold keg with gas hooked up for about 10 minutes until I can hear that CO2 isn't going in anymore. Then let it sit for a few days. No chance to overcarbonate this way.

1390
Zymurgy / Re: zymurgy search
« on: October 29, 2013, 08:23:34 AM »
I haven't tried searching within eZymurgy, but the Zymurgy index lets you search all issues - even those not on eZymurgy - by keyword.
 
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/zymurgy/archives

1391
The specs say 300 gallons per HOUR. That's all 55 gallons in 11 minutes and in reality with resistance from tubing and bends it won't be even that fast. You can put a valve on the output, but you may not need it. For a centrifugal pump I think you have to put the valve on the out side.
 
And I think your water temp algebra is correct since specific heat is linear as long as you don't have a phase change (ice to liquid)

1392
You know you're into homebrewing when you think homebrew makes a great Christmas gift.
 
You know you're obsessed when your family thinks homebrew makes a great Christmas gift.

1393
All Grain Brewing / Re: Stout Season - Dark Grain/Water Questions
« on: October 29, 2013, 06:25:15 AM »
You don't need to factor them into your water/grist ratio, but the will absorb water eventually, so you'll need to increase your sparge water. It's probably a small amount of water though and wouldn't matter if it was added to the mash or sparge. In any of these situations (including steeping) just make sure that the total volume of water added (during mash, sparge, and steeping) is the same and you'll end up with the volume of beer you want. ie - Yes, 1 gallon of steeping water should be removed from elsewhere in the process, probably the sparge.

1394
Other Fermentables / Re: First Perry
« on: October 29, 2013, 06:06:33 AM »
Has it started up yet? Ciders start much more slowly than beer. A day or two wouldn't surprise me. Perrys may be even slower. They also tend to have a higher pH than apples, I'm not sure how that affects start of fermentation. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Did you aerate after heating it? And you might want to add nutrients, especially if you start smelling sulfur.

1395
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Entry Limits for 2014
« on: October 29, 2013, 05:59:35 AM »
Well maybe not......
You've made the right decision if nobody is complete happy right?
 

Compare that to a lottery
You're proposing a lottery for the 'open' 3000 slots right? I agree that a simple lottery for all slots would be stupid. There needs to be a way for great brewers to compete without relying on luck. To be fair though, we don't know what the plan is and what you've described could still be quickly descibed as a lottery.

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