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Messages - Jimmy K

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking
« on: October 09, 2013, 01:25:48 PM »
Hmm, why not copper? Could use a tubing bender and make the bend big enough to actually fit a scrubber through. I think I'll make one.
It would be a killer racking cane
... literally
... ... and I don't mean figuratively literal

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hopping Advice
« on: October 09, 2013, 01:22:50 PM »
This might make a white stout.!  ;D

DO NOT go there!  :)
If coffee beans are not cracked, the infuse flavor without color - just sayin...

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking
« on: October 09, 2013, 11:30:03 AM »
I have a SS racking cane. It has all the high-tech features it needs - it's round, long, and straight. :)

Beer Travel / Re: Theater Breweries
« on: October 09, 2013, 11:13:18 AM »
Most of these are theaters at brewpubs, but McMenamins in Oregon has several of them.
Perhaps one is actually a brewery in a theater - I have not been to all of them.
I'm pretty sure Bagdhad Theater has always been a theater. I've been to Kennedy School and stayed at Olympia Club in Centralia, Washington. Both were cool.

Other Fermentables / Re: The Everything Hard Cider Book
« on: October 02, 2013, 05:35:27 PM »
My humble opinion says promote it.  But this brings up a question...   In a non-BJCP, people's choice competition, is it kosher (sorry) to have beer and cider on one ballot?
I don't see why not

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Home beer and wine survey- results?
« on: October 02, 2013, 02:00:56 PM »
Fermentiacs? Good name for a band.

- Sent by my R2 unit

Equipment and Software / Re: Directly heating Erlenmeyer flasks
« on: October 02, 2013, 06:34:17 AM »
Is it necessary to prepare starters with a full boil?  Avoiding the flask boil-over is hard to manage, and realizing I never thought to use a smaller burner.  Seems like sanitation-wise being above 180 is necessary, and thus holding in the 195-200+ degree range should be more that sufficient.
The steam from boiling will sanitize the walls and whatever foam/foil cap is on the flask, which is convenient but can be accomplished other ways too. I've been bringing it to boil and then removing from heat and allowing it to cool slowly. I'm sure it stays above 180 for quite a while this way. Steam sanitizes very quickly, so a few seconds should do it.

There is a difference between sanitation and sterilization. If you want sterilized wort, I'm not sure 180 would do it. But if you'll only use the yeast in a single batch, sterilized wort isn't needed.

The Pub / Re: Here's a typical craft beer bar menu
« on: October 02, 2013, 06:24:35 AM »
This made me laugh all the way through.

The Pub / Re: Bottle Cap Floor
« on: October 02, 2013, 06:23:04 AM »
in a garage?  wouldn't the car crush them?

I think they are filled underneath and sealed on top.
The pressure a car tire exerts on the floor equals the pressure inside the tire - usually about 32 lbs per square inch. Since a bottlecap is about 1 square inch, each one only has to hold up about 32 lbs. I'd still think they're filled with grout underneath, both for support and to keep them in place. To me, the bigger worry with car tires would be torque when you turn the wheels.

Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Entry Limits for 2014
« on: October 01, 2013, 11:27:10 AM »
While I don't know the financial state of the AHA, it seems to me that the NHC is a cash cow. 
I doubt that. Competitions rarely make money. Even with the high entry costs of NHC, remember that there are two rounds to pay for with tons of logistics, refridgerated storage, competition space (final round in Philly was at the Convention Center), etc. And though judges aren't paid, judging isn't free. You have to pay for food for judges, competition supplies, thank you gifts, - at the convention center I'm sure they even paid to rent the tables and chairs.

Though I do agree that raising the entry fee would not work. It would cut people based on ability to pay rather than ability to brew. I think more people should get a chance to enter, but not unlimited beers. Only those who've performed well should get to compete for Ninkasi. Essentially, I'd like a mechanism where you must prove your skills to get higher numbers of entries. Perhaps those who medal one year would get more entries (and guaranteed entrance) the next.

All Grain Brewing / Re: is vorlauf necessary?
« on: October 01, 2013, 11:16:51 AM »
What was the result of your blind tasting for this?  Thanks and cheers!
Yes please!

I'm sure there's a market. There is already a market for fully automated systems from Sabco/Morebeer/Blickmann and besides time, space is a constraint for many - especially those in cities or apartments. These are the first systems I've seen that allow full recipe control and all-grain brewing - so that's cool! I think the picobrew even lets you set mash steps. If you can pick your grain, hops, mash temps, etc, all the rest is just labor. Plenty of people spend money to reduce labor. And at $1300 for picobrew, it's well under the cost of a larger system.
I do think a thermoelectric fermentation chamber custom designed to hold a keg would be a great add-on.

Other Fermentables / Re: Insipid cider, tannens and acid blend fix?
« on: September 30, 2013, 06:16:45 AM »
Acid can definitely help and can be added now. I wouldn't bother with tannins, you got some from the oak and the powdered forms available in homebrew stores won't work the way you hope. They also tend to require aging. Acid and sugar balance each other out, so you might want to add some sugar after adding acid.

Other Fermentables / Re: Yeast nutient questions?
« on: September 30, 2013, 06:13:14 AM »
I never add nutrient of any kind.  Traditional cidermaking tries to slow down fermentation as much as possible, and many great ciders are made with low-N fruit from unfertilized orchards.
I would agree to a point. I've made great cider with no nutrients and underpitched yeast with slow, cold fermentation. But I've made cider with commercial yeast fermented warm and fast where the lack of nutrients stressed the yeast to the point they produced significant sulfur which didn't age out. 

Equipment and Software / Re: Directly heating Erlenmeyer flasks
« on: September 29, 2013, 01:07:10 PM »
I think there are some cheaply manufactured "Pyrex" flasks out there, but most and especially older ones are fine.

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