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Messages - Jimmy K

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Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 06, 2013, 07:30:39 PM »
I suppose as a one pot alternative, you could pull off a gallon of wort early in the mash and boil like crazy in the kettle while the mash finishes. This is figuring that with well modified malt most conversion is done pretty quickly, so you'd be safe pulling a gallon after 30 minutes.

Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 06, 2013, 10:30:17 AM »
Next you use females on the kettle and tun and males on the hoses, or vice versa?  Edumacate me!
I put male ends on kettles since the female side contains a rubber gasket and the cam levers that you must squeeze with your hand to lock it. I want both of those away from the flame.

Looks like they will be cool!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 05, 2013, 03:10:22 PM »
Does anyone out there add water after the mash period is ended, just to attempt to equalize the batch sparging volumes to be run off in the two batch sparges?  If so, that would impact the calculation, using Denny's system - maybe just have a lot of extra sparge water just in case and brew tea with it?

Yes, that is the recommended way. Somebody (maybe Denny) did tests and found it provides the best efficiency. Just use the same total sparge water for both additions. I heat the full amount at once since they are used within a short time frame.

Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 05, 2013, 11:21:48 AM »
I don't think you'll get the same flavors from a long boil as you would from boiling wort into syrup. But it's only a gallon or two - you can do that on a stove top with a pasta pot.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: vigorous fermentation
« on: August 05, 2013, 11:14:07 AM »

a little under pitched but not much. DON'T MOVE IT TO SECONDARY. if you have under pitched and stressed out the yeast you don't want to them remove most of them from the beer. Let them stay to clean up after themselves as much as possible.

Take a gravity reading. it's the only way to know what is going on in there.

I would not try to dilute anything at this point. Let it work. you've just got a somewhat stronger beer than you intended. Blend at serving time with a smaller beer or sparkly water if you must.

I don't know what you mean by two layers of floatys. but I don't think anything is wrong.

+1  and diluting at this point would just oxidize the beer.

Other Fermentables / Re: Ginger Ale Mead?
« on: August 05, 2013, 06:08:23 AM »
I think there's a light, sparkling ginger mead recipe in the bible (Complete Joy of Homebrewing). You might want to check that out.  Honey would make a great priming sugar and it would increase the honey perception. Even dry meads tend to stop tasting like honey when the sugars are gone. It's amazing how important sweetness is to some flavors.  Nice think is it should be easy to make a gallon or even half gallon to try it out.

The Pub / Re: Oxygen and liquor
« on: August 05, 2013, 06:02:34 AM »
Also, Sam Adams Utopias can stay open for weeks or more with no staling.

The Pub / Re: Oxygen and liquor
« on: August 05, 2013, 06:01:42 AM »
Whiskey (and other distilled spirits) aren't really food products anymore - they are just ethanol and water with trace amounts of flavor, aroma, and color compounds from the barrel (or from spicing).

Beer/wine can 'go bad' from a few sources that don't really affect spirits:

Oxidation of organic compounds in beer/wine causes staling. Since spirits lack carbohydrates and proteins, there isn't anything to oxidize. Actually, I believe the same is true for mead (per Michael Fairbrother in an NHC talk this year, I don't have much experience with meadmaking, just meaddrinking).

Infection is not an issue with distilled spirits because of its high alcohol content and low nutrient content.

I'm not sure if distilled spirits are susceptible to lightstrike. I'll have to look this one up.

No yeast carries over in the still runoff, so autolysis won't affect spirits.

Did I forget any other ways to ruin beer?
I think these are the main reasons. There are organic compounds in many liqueurs though. Perhaps the high ABV inhibits oxidation too. Think Irish Cream - lots of protein, fat, and sugar there.

Using an online gravity calculator, 1oz of sugar per gallon will raise the gravity by 0.002. This is probably better done with beer that is highly carbonated. The accuracy measuring such a small gravity change and knowing exactly what the FG will be would make it difficult for most low-medium carbonated beers. An error of 0.001 in reading the hydrometer or the actual FG would give you 50% higher or lower carbonation - not so good.
Unrelated to carbonation, you also wouldn't be allowing the beer to sit on yeast post-ferment. So the yeast couldn't clean up any diacetyl/acetylaldehyde or other off-flavors they've produced.

Other Fermentables / Re: Ginger Ale Mead?
« on: August 04, 2013, 07:13:49 PM »
Your biggest challenge will be the bottle conditioning. If you bottle condition, it will be completely dry as honey is simple sugar and completely fermentable. Ginger without sugar probably won't be what you want (but maybe it is?) This will be much easier if you can keg, stop fermentation, force carbonate and then bottle.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 03, 2013, 09:55:43 PM »
I don't think anyone else caught this, but you said you batch sparge at 168F. If you're adding 168F water, that's not hot enough. I use ~180F or higher which brings the grain temp up around 170. A lower temperature will definitely hurt your extraction during the sparge. In case you're worried, extracting tannins with high temp water is less a concern with batch sparging.

The Pub / Re: Yeah, it's old....
« on: August 03, 2013, 04:44:15 PM »
Why isn't this part of the BJCP training materials?

Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 02, 2013, 05:25:10 PM »
I have stainless cam-lock disconnects from
They also have high temp plastic ones.

Pimp My System / Re: My system needs pimping
« on: August 02, 2013, 01:25:32 PM »
And running the wort through hot is enough to sanitize a pump?  Or, how do you sanitize them?  Anyone use a "Chugger Pump"?  This is what my local guy has

I generally recirculate StarSan through it, then boiling wort, but a lot of people I know do only the boiling wort.  The 809 has a kinda tough time with it, but since I upgraded to the 815 impeller it works great.

Boiling water run through the pump should be adequate. I plan to start running boiling water through my chiller as well.

I agree.  But until I did the impeller upgrade, the pump would cavitate if I ran boiling liquid through it.  So I developed the two stage strategy.
Andy Tveekrem at NHC recommended 'wet heat' sanitation. He said 180 for 20 minutes which is probably overkill, but...

An advantage he mentioned is that if there is a clump of something bad in your lines/equipment - Star San will sanitize the surface, but heat will penetrate the whole clump.

I bet not too much overkill. figure It has to heat the whole pump body/housing/impeller plus anything else you are trying to sanitize (chiller etc.) all the way to that 180 point. bet it would take at least 20 minutes.

Oh that's a good point.

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