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Messages - mtnrockhopper

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Equipment and Software / Re: Upgrading Equipment vs Learning Your System
« on: November 07, 2012, 06:46:02 AM »
You have two goals, so there are really two answers. Smart equipment upgrades are a good way to make the brew day shorter or easier. Think about your process and what steps take time or cause you headaches, then find equipment to make that better.
But as far as making better, more consistent beer, well that is different. Upgrades are rarely needed for better beer, though some items such as better measuring equipment might make better beer easier. Temperature control and yeast management are probably the best upgrades you can make for better beer and these have little to do with the one's brew system.

Equipment and Software / Re: Went Shopping - there's pictures...
« on: November 05, 2012, 08:13:35 AM »
You could probably sell that giant kegerator for enough money to buy a new small one that you can use in your house!

Equipment and Software / Re: Pulleys
« on: November 05, 2012, 08:09:34 AM »
I have a hand winch on my brew stand to lift a 10 gallon mash tun.  You can see pictures here.
The winch is similar to this one -
It has a low capacity and the lowest (weakest) gear ratio available (3.1:1) so it lifts faster. Even with 10 gallons of water winching it up is no problem. It has no reverse, but it is also not a problem to release the lock and lower it down manually. Sure - if I let go of the handle it would slam down, but there just isn't much pressure on the crank to be worried.
I'm not sure I would want to steady a carboy with one hand and winch with the other though. I'd attach the rope to the handles of a Brew Hauler or attach to the milk crate at three points for stability.  If the winch goes to a pulley that is high up, pushing it over to lower it into the freezer shouldn't be a problem.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewing Hobby Survey
« on: November 05, 2012, 07:09:09 AM »
call me paranoid

You're paranoid.

Far worse info is available for purchase from marketing companies - even if you don't think it is.  Anyway, researchers rarely turn their data over to funding agencies.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewing Hobby Survey
« on: November 01, 2012, 01:18:15 PM »
This was a well put together survey.

All Grain Brewing / Re: HERMS vs RIMS
« on: October 31, 2012, 11:30:11 AM »
What about your electric bill?

Well, a 3000 watt element run constantly for 4 hours at full power (in reality they are not on all the time or at full power) would use 12kW-hours of power. At $0.15/kw-hour, that's $1.80 - I doubt you can get that cheap with propane.

Pimp My System / Re: Sculpture Build For The Non-Mechanical Brewer
« on: October 31, 2012, 11:20:34 AM »
Looks cool!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pale Malt 2 Row
« on: October 27, 2012, 04:16:12 AM »
I agree. There may be small differences between brands, but they are all interchangeable.

Ingredients / Re: spice amounts?
« on: October 26, 2012, 08:15:42 AM »
Should the cinnamon be ground up prior to adding?

If ground up, you'd likely need much less as you'll get much better and quicker extraction.

really? oh man!

i use the same calculator. i had no idea about properly entering temperature.

no wonder my carbing hasn't been stellar the last few batches.

yes, some CO2 stays dissolved in beer during fermentation, but the warmer the beer, the less CO2 it can hold in solution.  When warmed, some of the CO2 is released. When cold crashed, CO2 won't go back in because fermentation is over (so no more is being produced). It could go back, but it would need a source, such as a CO2 tank.

Equipment and Software / Re: Interesting immersion wort chiller design
« on: October 24, 2012, 01:32:25 PM »
Rather, since it is smaller tubing the water is closer to wort temp when it exits. This would get the most cooling per gallon, but you could do the same by just slowing the flow through another chiller.

From what I have read on the subject you get better cooling by having maximum flow through the chiller. 

That's my point. When most people say 'better chilling' they mean faster, but whoever makes that chiller is talking about water use and not speed. It may chill more slowly, but use less water.  If you want fast chilling, you want the tubes filled with the coldest possible water through the entire length. If you want to maximize water efficiency, you want hot water leaving the chiller because each gallon has absorbed more. But I doubt it can compete with a counterflow chiller for water conservation.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First Batch
« on: October 23, 2012, 06:16:39 PM »

1.a. a secondary wort chiller so I can run the cooling water for my primary wort chiller through an ice bath in order to get the wort to the right temps before pitching (I will build this myself, btw)

You are better off buying a sub-pump and recirculating ice-water through the wort-chiller. Once you hit the ambient tap-water temp you switch over which may be as high as 90 and as low as 64 depending on the season. Less wasteful and much more efficient.

Listen to Euge! I've done this and it works great! One heat transfer is far more efficient than two.

Equipment and Software / Re: Interesting immersion wort chiller design
« on: October 23, 2012, 06:14:20 PM »
Well, they are talking about water efficiency.  Since it uses a smaller diameter tube, water will flow more slowly, so I suspect that 300% less water does not mean 300% faster cooling. Rather, since it is smaller tubing the water is closer to wort temp when it exits. This would get the most cooling per gallon, but you could do the same by just slowing the flow through another chiller.  All of that turning probably does create turbulence in the cooling water, which might help too.  Overall, though, I'd say many homebrewers are more concerned about time than water use.  It is pretty though.

Ingredients / Re: Two Questions
« on: October 23, 2012, 02:16:27 PM »
1. The recipe I am working on calls for 2 oz. of Sweet Orange Peel.  I have Dried Orange Peel from a spice company.  On the jar it says it is equivalent for volume measurements for zest (1 tsp.=1 tsp.), but doesn't mention weight.  Anyone have an idea of how much dried peel is equal to 2 oz. of fresh?

I would guess that up to 90% of the peel's weight is water. If that were true - 0.2oz dry = 2oz fresh.  Most recipes that call for dry orange peel (although most are for bitter) use 0.5 oz.
Don't know about lactic acid.

Ingredients / Re: Adding sugars in the secondary
« on: October 23, 2012, 11:48:38 AM »

I agree...don't do it.
Let it age (as you should do with any RIS) won't gain in mouthfeel, but the aging will add some nice complexities to the flavor (which may in turn serve to make up at least somewhat for the lack of "thickness" you describe).

Another good point. You really don't know what it will taste like after some aging.

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