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Messages - Jimmy K

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Carbonation
« on: March 19, 2013, 07:23:46 PM »
The sugar was put in the racking bucket and then the beer was added.  I didn't stir for fear of oxidation but will try your method next time.  Thanks.
I used to have carbonation problems (some under, some over) until I started stirring the sugar and beer together. Just use a long spoon and stir gently but thoroughly. Adding yeast for a big beer is good insurance too. Beer always carbonates quickly that way. You don't need much, 1/4 packet rehydrated is plenty.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Boil Question
« on: March 19, 2013, 07:18:47 PM »
I just saw that on their catalog. It does say up to 10 gallons, but I don't like the way the top is constructed with no direct support on the outer rim where the kettle weight would be. I guess it would be fine for a flat bottom kettle, but I'm not sure about a keggle where the weight rests on the edge.

The Pub / Re: A day at work
« on: March 19, 2013, 09:10:26 AM »

How do you keep them from falling out of their chairs?
I assumed he's working in Austrailia. Gravity is upside down there you know.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation taking "hold"
« on: March 19, 2013, 09:08:52 AM »
I prefer to be as simple as possible when force carbing.  I try to keep plenty of beers on tap at any one time so I am not overly anxious to pour a perfect beer in 24 hours.  Simply, keep your cooler so it dispenses at 38 to 45 degrees, or what you like.  Set keg pressure at 12 pounds or whatever your style wants.  Start with about 10 feet of line, 3/16 ID.  This will give you a nice slow, not overly foamy pour.  If it is too slow for you, cut a foot off and try again.  Most importantly, let the keg carb without fuss for a solid week and there you are.  There are tons of other ways to carb.  Shaking, kicking, rolling, bouncing. high pressure then low pressure then no pressure.  Big headache unless you know where you are going and how to get there.  Cheers!
Do this and you'll never need to "recarbonate".

Can't answer your question, but I've always been told that metabisulphite isn't a good sanitizer for beer.  It works for wine because of the lower pH and higher alcohol content.  Is that incorrect?
Denny, you're right if you're talking about knocking back wild yeasts in wort vs must. But ynot's asking about making a sanitizer with a high concentration of sulfite in water, which is common (in winemaking anyway).
I heard two minutes is fine. Add some to your carboy and shake, then let it sit with a stopper on. The sulfur fumes do as much of the work as the liquid. Many also add citric acid to the water bring the pH down - a low pH makes the sulfite work better.
I'm not sure why your LHBS recommended sulfites over other sanitizers.  I don't think it's necessarily better than star-san or other sanitizers. I think you can get away with one set if you are super careful about cleaning. You could get a stainless steel racking cane and just keep a second set of tubes.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-out
« on: March 19, 2013, 08:47:11 AM »
That's what I've been doing.  Draining the cooler and then adding ~185F water to bring the temp up to ~168-170 for the batch sparge.  Is that right?  Or should I use 168F water to batch sparge?
That's about right. 168 degree water won't budget the grain temperature much. I've heard people going as high as 190.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-out
« on: March 19, 2013, 06:04:29 AM »
Are you fly or batch sparging? You can add water - and yes you'd subtract that from your sparge water. If you are batch sparging, just drain and add hot batch sparge water.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Boil Question
« on: March 19, 2013, 06:02:00 AM »
Fill it with water and see if you can boil it.  One burner on my stove is super strong will boil easily. I've seen both gas and electric stoves that could do it - and some that couldn't. It all depends on how powerful the burners are.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Quick souring method
« on: March 19, 2013, 05:58:39 AM »
What sort of container is it in? You want to eliminate oxygen from your wort while it is souring to inhibit other organisms. Boiling to kill the lacto and then adding ale yeast to complete fermentation is a common method. Most berliner weisses I've had were soured from 24-36 hours.

Equipment and Software / Re: Help with mash tun size
« on: March 19, 2013, 05:42:36 AM »
I'm looking at 150 qt but they only come in green or white. No Blue so I don't know what to do.

My dirty 152 is white.....ssssshhhhh.......
AAAAAAAAAAAARRRHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!.....  //sobbing//

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing over Two days
« on: March 18, 2013, 07:02:11 PM »
If you don't boil, then I would be worried about a potential infection (lacto in particular). If you can at least get your wort up to pasteurization temps for long enough (I think 180F for 15 minutes, but don't quote me on this), then you should be OK.
145F for 30 minutes is also proper pasteurization temp/time - so after a 60 minute mash the wort should be pretty safe to store for the night.

The Pub / Re: Homebrewing Snafu in Alabama
« on: March 15, 2013, 08:58:30 AM »
Heard their homebrewing bill has been stalled too.

Equipment and Software / Digital hydrometer kickstarter
« on: March 15, 2013, 08:56:23 AM »
Just came across this digital hydrometer kickstarter. Says it will measure percent alcohol too.

Ingredients / Re: Brewing With Grits
« on: March 15, 2013, 08:07:56 AM »
Or crockpot - I cook steel cut oats for oatmeal overnight in a crockpot. I'm sure the same could be done with grits.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mashing with flaked maize
« on: March 15, 2013, 07:11:34 AM »
If you've ever had corn grits, it is not gummy like oatmeal can be. I'm guessing that corn doesn't have the gummy proteins that oats and some other grains have.

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