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Messages - mtnrockhopper

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2116
Why would AHA want to reduce it's membership numbers? Especially since those anyone who wants to "power drink" probably isn't concerned with what AHA does with their money.

2117
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA Pub Discount Program
« on: July 31, 2012, 11:26:59 AM »
I know this is an old topic, but I found this idea to work well last week:
I took my tablet with me to a couple of pubs to catch up on emails and forums while having a beer or two, since I am living smart phone free.
When the waiter at each place didn't know about the AHA Pub Discount Program, I showed him the web page with his restaurant/pub and the discount offer.  Worked great.

In Washington there some law that says you can't do this.  Although, a few places around the NHC hotel did indeed give the discount.  So I am unsure about it all......

The beauty of taking your mobile web device is that you can actually show the wait staff that their own restaurant is listed and what what the discount applies to.
(I just checked Washigton and they list none, but I was given a discount at the brewpub near the NHC hotel when asked.)

I think Washington actually prohibits AHA from promoting businesses that discount, but does not stop the businesses from giving the discount.

2118
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Using Ice to cool wort?
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:54:21 AM »
It does work? I guess my math was WAY off. I don't know any other reason not to.

your math was correct if it was water at 32 degrees and not ice. ice absorbs has a specific heat that is absorbed in going from ice at 32 to water at 32.  in addition the ice is probably colder than 32.

I knew that, I just didn't realize it would absorb that much heat.

2119
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:46:54 AM »
Yes, but 65 vs 70 won't make much of a difference. Mortica's right, if anything you'd have added too much - though you did say you added less than recommended. Did you add by weight?

2120
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Using Ice to cool wort?
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:45:41 AM »
I started out with Alton Browns homebrew episode and he uses ice as his top up water so I did to. If you buy bagged ice it was sent through a UV sterilizer before freezing so contamination is not much of an issue. and 2 gallons of ice will indeed chill the wort down quickly. I used to put ice in the funnel and drain the wort through it, top up the ice as it melts. worked well.

I was wondering that. I figured with food safety these days that bagged ice would have to be treated somehow. If it they use chlorinated water though, bad juju.

2121
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Using Ice to cool wort?
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:42:05 AM »
It does work? I guess my math was WAY off. I don't know any other reason not to.

2122
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:39:20 AM »
If you're using a priming sugar calculator like that, make sure that the temperature you use to lookup is the highest temperature the beer ever experienced after fermentation. So if a beer fermented at 68, but then warmed up to 75 afterwards, and now it's cold conditioning at 40 - lookup the priming value for 75 degrees because that high temperature will drive out much of the dissolved CO2 and it won't go back when the beer cools.  Not sure if this applies to you.

but, unless the beer spent some time at higher than 70 that mistake would result in overcarbing as the calculator would recommend more sugar given a higher temp.

 ??? ?? I think your math is upside down.  If you should calculate for 70 degrees, but you instead calculate for 40 degrees, you'll wind up adding less sugar than needed - which is exactly what you said, but not.

right, but the OP said he calculated for the temp the bottles would condition at (70*) I assumed that he fermented cooler than that so if he calced for 70* and the beer never went warmer than say 65* it would be slightly too much sugar. probably fairly negligiable(no spell check at work >:() either way though

I gotcha.

2123
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sugar and yeast nutrient
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:32:51 AM »
diammonium phosphate isn't so much a nutrient as it is red bull for yeast. Gives them wings. Yeast hulls are better for promoting yeast health, DP is good for getting that last bit of attenuation out of struggling yeast.
 
A starter is your best bet. Add nutrients to that.
 

2124
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:25:56 AM »
If you're using a priming sugar calculator like that, make sure that the temperature you use to lookup is the highest temperature the beer ever experienced after fermentation. So if a beer fermented at 68, but then warmed up to 75 afterwards, and now it's cold conditioning at 40 - lookup the priming value for 75 degrees because that high temperature will drive out much of the dissolved CO2 and it won't go back when the beer cools.  Not sure if this applies to you.

but, unless the beer spent some time at higher than 70 that mistake would result in overcarbing as the calculator would recommend more sugar given a higher temp.

????? I think your math is upside down.  If you should calculate for 70 degrees, but you instead calculate for 40 degrees, you'll wind up adding less sugar than needed - which is exactly what you said, but not.

2125
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Some very basic kegging questions
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:21:46 AM »
One note, the only incompatible pieces b/t ball and pin lock are the disconnects. All other parts (taps, tubes, etc) are the same.
 
I got a complete setup for 1 keg when I started, partly because it was a present and easier to tell family to get that one item than a bunch of components. It is good to start if you're not familiar because you get all the parts - no worries.  The price is OK campared to piecemeal, but probably not the absolute best you can do if you shop around.
 
Craigslist has some really good deals if you are patient.

2126
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Using Ice to cool wort?
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:09:30 AM »
Just that it probably won't get as cool as you think. 3 gallons of water at 212F mixed with 2 gallons (16lbs) of ice at 32F would give you five gallons around 140F. Maybe a little cooler due to melting ice absorbing a lot of energy, but that's pretty high above pitching temps.  Might work well inconjuction with an icebath.

2127
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 06:39:59 AM »
You can open the bottles, add sugar, and recap. Not simple, but it will work. The little carbonation drops are probably the easiest way to do this.  Try it with a few bottles, wait 10ish days and see if you like it. Carbonation may not be perfect, but it will be better.
 
I put beers that I don't want to drink (overcarbed, old, etc) in a case near the kitchen and use them for cooking.

2128
Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 06:27:31 AM »
Any of you guys ever read the "Roving Brewer" articles by Eric Watson on the Beer Tools website?
He has some pretty different views on hopping as well as yeast. I'd be interested in your comments about what he writes on both issues, but for this thread at least about hopping. He sez never FWH. Whadya think?

I just read some of it. He definately has some good and/or different ideas about yeast. Haven't found anything on hops yet.
 
Here is the link.
http://www.beertools.com/html/articles.php?view=245

2129
Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 06:25:50 AM »
Depends on the beer, and what you are trying to do. 30 Minute additions are said to give the most glycoside development from the polyphenols. These aid mouthfell and flavor. The bitterness utilization is still fairly high, and the flavor is said to still be there.

That is pretty interesting.

2130
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 06:12:57 AM »
If you're using a priming sugar calculator like that, make sure that the temperature you use to lookup is the highest temperature the beer ever experienced after fermentation. So if a beer fermented at 68, but then warmed up to 75 afterwards, and now it's cold conditioning at 40 - lookup the priming value for 75 degrees because that high temperature will drive out much of the dissolved CO2 and it won't go back when the beer cools.  Not sure if this applies to you.

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