Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Jimmy K

Pages: 1 ... 169 170 [171] 172 173 ... 242
2551
Ingredients / Re: Getting orange!
« on: November 27, 2012, 01:16:33 PM »
How much did you add?  I would wait until fermentation is over to decide. I find unfermented malt can cover a lot.

Also, you can make an extract by soaking more peels in a little vodka. This can be added at bottling to taste. I like to use 1 cup of vodka because that equals ~1 tsp / 12oz bottle (assuming a 5 gal batch).  Then at bottling I add 1/2 tsp to 6oz beer and taste. Adjust the dose accordingly and add the rest to the full batch.

2552
Other Fermentables / Re: Maple Wine
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:45:03 PM »
A friend who makes TONS of mead told me that years ago he made a maple mead with 1/2 maple and 1/2 honey. Sadly I never had any, but he said it came out tasting much like bourbon.

2553
Equipment and Software / Re: Fred Francis from Monster Mills....???
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:37:26 PM »
Have you emailed them? I saw on their website that it is their preferred contact method. Not that you shouldn't call, but maybe he'll respond faster to an email. (Since he can return an email on his phone while taking a "break").

2554
Pimp My System / Re: Rolling brew station
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:33:19 PM »
Nice mash paddle! The incorporation of drawers for storage is nice too.

2555
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Out of ideas.
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:25:50 PM »
It's basically a valve with a spring on one side and gas pressure on the other. When the pressures are very close there will be a small amount of gas moving from the high to low pressure side. And the closer they get, the slower it will be. Eventually the pressures are equal, but that doesn't happen instantly.  Equilibrium speed and noise surely depends on regulator design.
 
I've noticed that when I first turn on the CO2, the regulator pressure jumps to - say - 8psi. When I check after a day it will be a little higher - like 9psi - and stay there. This is my explaination for that.
 
I've read regulator instructions that say to start with the regulator at zero, turn the CO2 on, and then SLOWLY turn up to the pressure you want. Maybe this is why.

2556
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast for Shock Top Wheat clone
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:11:45 PM »
I thought Cry Havoc was Charlie P's yeast like 1450 is Denny's Fav... But it had to come from somewhere.  I think any neutral ale yeast would get you pretty close to the clone base and then mess with spices to fine tune it.
It is Charlie's, but I suppose he had to get it from somewhere. 

2557
Equipment and Software / Re: Fred Francis from Monster Mills....???
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:05:32 PM »
I just had a "Hey wait! That's Richie" moment. Welcome back.

2558
Other Fermentables / Re: Maple Wine
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:03:09 PM »
Never done it, but sounds reasonable. I'd expect it not to have many nutrients so treating it like honey should work. I'd check the pH too and consider adjusting acidity.

2559
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer serving temp
« on: November 27, 2012, 07:56:25 AM »
Yeah, it could be a problem with it not being mixed.  If the outer edges cool that will make the beer denser and it will sink to the bottom, where the dip tube is.  Once you pull out the cold stuff you're left with the warmer beer above it.  I don't know if that is actually what happened, but maybe.


This, or some similar partial cooling scenario, would be my guess.

2560
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast for Shock Top Wheat clone
« on: November 26, 2012, 12:48:53 PM »
I'm not a fan of the beer, but I think I'd go with an American Wheat strain like WY1010.
Probably an even better idea. I don't remember anything witty about it, or shocking for that matter.

2561
Other Fermentables / Re: A little help with a batch of cider.
« on: November 26, 2012, 12:44:24 PM »
I've only had headspace problems when I've stored cider longer than six months. Even then, a well sealed airlock is more important.
 
The apples probably won't add noticable flavor but might introduce some new organism. I'm not really a fan of adding too many fermentables post-fermentation either. I'd taste it. If you like it, don't mess with it.

2562
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast for Shock Top Wheat clone
« on: November 26, 2012, 12:38:01 PM »
I haven't had it in years, but I'd probably think about something neutral like California ale. SafAle S-33 might be a good choice too. It is relatively neutral for a belgian yeast.

2563
All Grain Brewing / Re: Topping off wort
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:35:10 AM »
I've done that with water out of the tap, but I do sanitize the jug I'm filling. I wouldn't add water that's been sitting in a britta filter, but I can't really say if that's causing a problem.

2564
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help me improve my process (Pictures!)
« on: November 26, 2012, 08:25:07 AM »
The carboy is on concrete in many pics. Carboys on concrete scare me, just a little bump on the concrete could cause a broken carboy. Get a milk crate for the carboy, or at least a brew hauler (nylon strap carrier).

I've seen it happen - not pretty. Even sub-lethal knocks can cause tiny fracturing in glass and those add up. I have a few squares of scrap plywood that I place carboys on so they never touch concrete.

2565
I think you fellows are correct - probably can't circulate chilled glycol fast enough to do the job right.

Somebody with refridgeration know-how could figure it out, but keeping cold beer cold in a draft line requires much less cooling power than bringing 5 or 10 gallons of wort down even a few degrees.
 
I found this formula for cooling water -
 
BTU/hr = water flow rate in gal/minute * (input temp - output temp) * 500
 
so the energy needed to cool a 2 gallon/minute flow just 20 degrees is
 
2 GPM * (80 - 60) * 500 = 20,000 BTU
 
Far more than the 1100 btu that faucet chiller offers.

Pages: 1 ... 169 170 [171] 172 173 ... 242