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Messages - Jimmy K

Pages: 1 ... 169 170 [171] 172 173 ... 244
2551
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: November 29, 2012, 02:08:45 PM »
I suspect your friend is applying bad math and hoping it all goes to plan.
 
...Sharks with frickin laser beams...

2552
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Can't find leak in regulator
« on: November 29, 2012, 12:41:51 PM »
How tightly is the regulator attached to the tank? Did you use a wrench? 
 
Is there a gasket between the regulator and tank? Some regulators have a nylon gasket attached, others need a separate gasket, but it shouldn't be metal/metal.
 
 

2553
All Grain Brewing / Re: 5-gallon vs. 10-gallon cooler?
« on: November 29, 2012, 12:30:35 PM »
One day, perhaps before they shoot the video,  I'd like you to please move the clamps so they all face the same direction.

But having the clamps all different is part of the design and how I hit 137% efficiency!
I get that my adding flubber to the mash. Changes the mouthfeel a bit though.

2554
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: November 29, 2012, 12:27:30 PM »
I find that collecting first runnings followed by putting in more water into the mash, mixing well, letting sit for another 30 or so minutes and collecting second runnings (mixing first and second, obviously) extracts way more out of the grain than fly sparging.

Let me understand.  You mash in and mash out.  Collect all of your first wort runnings and then you add water back to your mashed grains, let sit for another 30 minutes and then collect enough 2nd runnings to combine with first runnings for you boil.  I assume the water you add is +/- 170 to 175ish and you would collect around 6.25 to 6.50 gallons for a 5 gallons batch.

Is this batch sparging?

Nope.  Batch sparging would be adding the second water addition and running off immediately.  I don't really see the point of letting the second water addition sit for 30 min.
Sounds like batch sparging to me -- with extra time for a samich.

2555
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Glassware
« on: November 29, 2012, 12:22:49 PM »
I think it would be cool to get my own glassware too, but then you have disclaimers like this:
"Glassware capacities are approximate and should not be used as a standard of measure. "

Where can you get glasses that have a fill line on them?  I like those.  :)

those are the British pint glasses usually. pubglasses.com has them.

Those fill lines are probably approximate too.

In the UK they have to accurate enough to meet the law for weights and measures. 20 Imperial ounces.

In Germany they have to meet the law too, but will be .3 liter, 0.5 liter, 1 liter.

Never have checked the ones I have.
I meant ones produced here, not in Europe. If the designer/printer aren't paying attention - that line could be anywhere.
 
It makes me laugh anyway, seems that beer drinkers are militant about getting a good pour with decent head - until they are paying for that pint. Then it's fill it to the top!!

2556
Kegging and Bottling / Re: I am thinking about buying a keg
« on: November 29, 2012, 06:32:18 AM »
The right size deep-well socket or box wrench will help take the keg posts off for cleaning. I don't remember the size, but it is not one that I had on hand.  My adjustable wrench was too fat to be much use in the tight space between the handles.

2557
All Grain Brewing / Re: Iostar to measure starch?
« on: November 29, 2012, 06:23:58 AM »
Old guy on the Moonshiners show last night stuck his finger in the mash and held it up in the wind. He said if it's not sticky when it dries, it's ready.

2558
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: These guys need to clean up their act
« on: November 28, 2012, 02:22:11 PM »
maybe Strangled Brewing Company ?  At least the TLA doesn't change.   ;D

Paul

They can make that change with a Sharpie!

2559
All Grain Brewing / Re: Drink IPA's Fresh!
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:09:15 PM »
I only buy IPAs from a tap or in cans.  Bottles are too much of a crap shoot.
I had an IPA on draft at a brewery that was great. Bought a sixpack of cans and it was crap - I presume it wasn't as fresh (no date). I don't think there is anything about cans that will preserve hop character.
They'll prevent light strike.
Definately true, but I guess I'd consider that a separate problem.

2560
Other Fermentables / Re: Maple Wine
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:02:34 PM »
ive heard that using sap has more maple flavor than the actual syrup but i presume the gravity of that is low, maybe just add maple syrup to maple sap? let us know how this turns out cause i have a few good friends who make maple syrup. They already challenged me to make them a maple wine or beer after they tried my rum raisin braggot

Actually, most of the maple syrup flavors are due to caramelization of the sugars during the boil.

2561
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: pitching temp
« on: November 28, 2012, 09:36:17 AM »
This one habit alone certainly won't ruin your beer, so it is not a case of good vs bad beer. It is more like good vs possibly better beer. Many people won't notice fusels and you'd have to drink a lot to get a headache (and likely get a headache anyway from the ethanol).  Other effects like increased esters won't make the beer bad, just different from what you intended. Esters are desired in some styles and a flaw in others. 

2562
All Grain Brewing / Re: Drink IPA's Fresh!
« on: November 28, 2012, 09:13:45 AM »
I only buy IPAs from a tap or in cans.  Bottles are too much of a crap shoot.
I had an IPA on draft at a brewery that was great. Bought a sixpack of cans and it was crap - I presume it wasn't as fresh (no date). I don't think there is anything about cans that will preserve hop character.

2563
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: pitching temp
« on: November 28, 2012, 08:25:21 AM »
I imagine the old pitching warm advice helped negate the effects of underpitching, which was probably really common decades ago. The warm pitch would boost yeast growth a bit.  Pitching the right amount  of yeast at the right temperature will make much better beer.  Your wort is cooling and probably most fermentation takes place at the right temp, but many of the flavors created by yeast are produced during the growth phase, when your wort is warm.
 
Don't be fooled by lag time either, a short lag time may reassure you that the yeast is good, but it doesn't really have any other significant benefits. If your sanitation procedures are good, your wort can easily sit for 24 hours without ill effects.

2564
All Grain Brewing / Re: Drink IPA's Fresh!
« on: November 27, 2012, 01:54:36 PM »
Funny, the wife and I were just talking about this last weekend.  It seems that aging beer is being pushed by some breweries/beer geeks and though it is fine for some - it is decidedly not good for IPA's. In some cases I think it has gone too far.

2565
Other Fermentables / Re: Maple Wine
« on: November 27, 2012, 01:32:01 PM »
Woodford reserve did a maple aged burbon with toasted, but not charred maple barrels.
 
http://chuckcowdery.blogspot.com/2010/09/do-maple-barrels-look-different.html

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