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Messages - beer_crafter

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1
Seems like the problem was somewhere between the poppet, the gasket on the dip tube, and the keg itself.  I used Keg lube all over these connections.. I really lubed it up   8) and seems to have fixed the problem.  I think the system was sucking some CO2 out of the headspace in the keg. 

2
In theory, shutting the gas and degassing this over time should then correct the problem  (or at least indicate that overcarbed was the cause).  Let's see. 

3
Re: Something stuck in the poppet-- Possible.  I do take my poppets apart after each beer while I'm cleaning the keg.  Still, it's possible (and one of the more likely explanations) that there is something wrong here... possibly with the gasket.

Re: Fast force carb:  Yes, but I've done that a couple hundred times and never had this problem, and now have had it in back-to-back kegs.

I guess one thing I hadn't considered until now is a problem with the regulator or gas pressure guage.  Perhaps I have a lot more CO2 in solution than it appears. 

4
2.3-2.5. 

5
I'm dealing with an issue with one of my draft lines that I've never seen before in all my years of using corny kegs.

When you pour the beer, the first ounce or so is normal*, followed by a gas pocket, followed by a bunch of foam as the line clears.  Once the beer pours from the keg itself, it seems to be fine. 

- It's a ball lock keg that has been in service for a while.

- CO2 seems to be coming out in solution in the lines.  If I pour two pints within a few minutes, the second one doesn't have a gas pocket, but it still does have a good shot of foam. 

- This has happened to me on 2 batches in a row, although I did use the same keg and same lines and faucet each time.

- The beer in question is a brett saison, and I do carbonate it highly.  I don't think this is simply a situation where CO2 is coming out of solution due to some sort of balancing thing.  If I disconnect the line from the keg, the line doesn't foam. 

- I've changed out the black liquid disconnect with no difference.

- I've tried a picnic tap with the same results.

- I keep the beer (as all beers) at 45F.  I keep this one at 14 PSI, on the high side. 

- There don't appear to be any gas leaks and there are definitely no liquid leaks.

Anyone ever see anything like this?  I'm going to take apart the keg and replace the seals if I can't figure out the deal before the keg kicks.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 8 gallon whiskey barrel
« on: June 27, 2017, 05:53:35 PM »
Leave it dry.  3-5 days before you're ready to fill it, rehydrate it with hot water.  That's what I do if I were in your position.  Why do you need to wait 30 days after primary though? 

7
Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 21, 2017, 03:55:17 PM »
My NEIPAs get on average:
.25 oz at 60m
2 oz at 5m
4 oz hopstand (185-190F) for 15-20m
Dry hop with 4 oz during primary fermentation
2nd Dry hop with 5 oz in a keg.
Then I do a keg to keg transfer into the serving keg.

15.25 oz for a 5 gallon batch.
This is a beer that goes about 1.064 OG.
Don't knock it till you try it.

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Turbulent flow out of one tap, not the other
« on: October 13, 2016, 04:47:53 AM »
you seem to be onto something.  The main gasket that seats the faucet against the shank assembly/coupling nut looked to be a little comprimised.  Not quite straight and somewhat compressed.   I've reseated it, and it's better but not perfect... ordering a new one.  Thanks for the help!

9
Kegging and Bottling / Turbulent flow out of one tap, not the other
« on: October 11, 2016, 07:20:25 PM »
I've had a 2 tap tower for God knows how long-- 10 years?  and in the past 4 months or so my left tap pours very turbulently... almost like the beer is spinning out as it comes out the faucet.

Both kegs are in a 42F fridge.  I have gone through different kegs including a clean keg with just water-- same result.  Different levels of pressure, from 3 PSI all the way up to 20 PSI.  Ball lock disconnect to 8-10' of 3/16" tubing.  Up to a 12" tower, 90 degree shank, and out through old Perlick 425SS faucets.

I've replaced the disconnect-- I thought this was it, because the old disconnect had a mashed up washer.  Not the fix.  Again, the right tap works like a charm. 

If I turn the faucet off and back on sometimes I can get it to pour more normally.   Is there something inside these perlicks that can get cockeyed and cause turbulent flow? 

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto and whirlpool hops
« on: July 08, 2016, 04:59:36 AM »
Yes, and even dry hops have been demonstrated to affect Lacto. 

11
I don't think the problem is with Fruit Lambics (which are a classic style in and of themselves), but fruited versions of other classic styles.  The other thing at play here is that there a lot of modern riffs on the classic styles (Berliner, Gose, Flanders Reds come to mind) that don't strictly fall into the style even before the fruit is considered.  A berliner weisse at 4.9% abv, or a flanders with no oak character, but with fruit added, are a couple examples where this gets confusing for entrants. 

12
That may be the way it is supposed to work, but I'd still be tempted to enter non-lambic fruited classic sour styles (BWeisse, etc) as Wild Specialty, especially in smaller/local competitions.  I've had good success with my Tart Cherry Flanders Red in Wild Specialty, and suspect that if I entered it in as Fruit Beer, I'd get dinged for being sour, or not having enough prominent fruit character. 

To me, this may be a difference in theory vs practice. 

I'll point out that Russian River Supplication is listed as a classic example of Wild Specialty Beer.  This beer isn't terribly far off from a Flanders Red aged in Pinot Barrels (as opposed to fouders) and Tart Cherries. 

13
Wood/Casks / Re: Barrel aging questions
« on: February 23, 2016, 09:53:23 AM »
What I recommend is that a few days before you are ready to use the barrel, give it a rinse, and then get as much 180F water in there as possible. You don't necessarily have to fill it (although you can) but you do want to rotate and flip it so that all surfaces get wet.  This will hydrate the wood and will help reduce any contaminating yeast/bacteria. 

Although I have stored my barrels with hot water, I have since learned that that may invite mold growth.  So, after you're comfortable that the wood has swollen and isn't leaking, fill it with cold water.  Hopefully at this point, your beer is close to being done.

When your beer is done, drain the water and fill with beer.  To the very top.  Add a bung with an airlock and montior it for blowoff. 
 

14
Wood/Casks / Re: Woodinville Whiskey Co. Barrel
« on: October 09, 2015, 04:48:33 AM »
Sure you can... by blending.

15
Wood/Casks / Re: Killing off past microbes
« on: March 24, 2015, 08:32:45 AM »
In my experience, boiling (or even 180F) water does kill microbes.

I brewed a sour in a 6 gallon barrel.  I did a 180F soak of the barrel after I was done.  Rinsed it and let it cool and added a cleanly fermented beer to it, with the idea that the microbes in the wood would sour the beer.... after 6 months, the beer was still clean as a whistle!  I was shocked, but it did give me the confidence that I'd be able to control the organisms in the wood to *some* extent (not entirely).


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