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Messages - beer_crafter

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Wood/Casks / Re: Woodinville Whiskey Co. Barrel
« on: October 09, 2015, 04:48:33 AM »
Sure you can... by blending.

Wood/Casks / Re: Killing off past microbes
« on: March 24, 2015, 08:32:45 AM »
In my experience, boiling (or even 180F) water does kill microbes.

I brewed a sour in a 6 gallon barrel.  I did a 180F soak of the barrel after I was done.  Rinsed it and let it cool and added a cleanly fermented beer to it, with the idea that the microbes in the wood would sour the beer.... after 6 months, the beer was still clean as a whistle!  I was shocked, but it did give me the confidence that I'd be able to control the organisms in the wood to *some* extent (not entirely).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Classiest beer style
« on: January 15, 2015, 05:19:40 AM »
Biere de Champagne, hands down. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: How well do you clean your mash tun?
« on: January 15, 2015, 05:14:10 AM »
I just rinse my mash tuns and make sure I rinse the ball valves fairly well.  The coolers are fairly dirty at this point. 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Need Big, 15 gal.? Cooler Mash Tun
« on: March 20, 2014, 05:04:56 AM »
Love the coleman xtreme.  The 70qt is a big tun... for 5 gallon batches, I'm not sure I would recommend it.  For big beers, fine... but 8lbs of malt for a pale ale or pils would get lost in there!

All Grain Brewing / Re: % of Munich for light summer ale
« on: July 06, 2013, 04:55:37 AM »
I was thinking 10% Munich is appropriate.  Too much in a light beer will darken the color.  Maybe you could get away with 15-20%, I have not run the numbers through software.  Depends on how dark you want.  If color doesn't really matter, then yeah, use 20-30% with great effect.

Depends on what Munich.  The color of some of the Light or "Munich I" grains are as low as 6L.  20% of that stuff in a beer made with 2-row or Pale Ale malt is not going to have it's colored affected to the point of detriment. 

Also, 10-15% will give you a slight graininess that is pleasant but not immediately identifiable as Munich malt.  I think it's really nice in a beer like this. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Final beer PH?
« on: July 06, 2013, 04:45:59 AM »
Just took the readings of my two on tap.  These were taken on carbonated beer.

Double IPA: 4.6
Belgian Blonde (pils recipe/3787 yeast): 4.2

It is my favorite book in the classic beer style series.  Get it.  I re-read it every time I brew a BW, just to get psyched up.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: February 20, 2013, 05:54:56 AM »
Looks like Mr. Apte's Flemish Red page is down (it links to a profile page for him at Xerox)... Does anyone have this cached?  If not I will email him to see if I can get a copy and we can add it to this site, hopefully.

All Grain Brewing / Re: stuck sparge
« on: November 28, 2012, 11:22:48 AM »
I find a psuedo-mash-out helps with this.  I also batch sparge and whenever I have had a slow or stuck sparge, infusing boiling water and getthing the mash up to about 160 or so has done the trick.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: October 17, 2012, 02:45:48 PM »
light colored belgian ales, and i'll include saisons in that group, are some of the easiest all-grain beers to make, and some of the most expensive to buy.  Great beers to homebrew. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison Vert Dregs
« on: October 09, 2012, 01:14:57 PM »
My assumption is that rayot vert does have active brett in it.  I could be wrong.

Beer Travel / Re: East coast must have beers (CT, specifically)
« on: October 05, 2012, 11:12:30 AM »
Willimantic is great, but without a car, you just can't get there.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Affligem Blond
« on: October 05, 2012, 11:10:25 AM »
I like Affligem's beers, especially the Dubbel.  They are better than the other big-brewery "Abbey" ales like Leffe. It's owned by Heineken but their beers are good, if a little rustic. 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Problem with keg hopping
« on: September 21, 2012, 01:54:55 PM »
in the keg, I only use leaf hops, never pellets.  And I either go into a nylon bag, or let the swim free, with a sure screen.  I've used a muslin bag, and i've used pellets, but I think the whole idea is to get the oils into your beer while keeping out vegative matter.  Sometimes I'll use both a nylon bag and a sure screen.

I have never had the need to suspend the bag in anyway so it didn't reach the bottom.  Hops float ya know!  I've never had a clog nor a situation where the dry hops went grassy after too much time. 

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