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Messages - beer_crafter

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Beer Recipes / Re: Ideas needed for recipe similar to Hop Stoopid
« on: July 02, 2010, 02:29:02 PM »
I love the Stoopid and have never made a beer that came close to it-- but then again, I've never tried.

I'd do the following and adjust from there:
10 oz of 20L crystal malt
.75 lb of table sugar
enough 2-row to get you to about 1.076
30 HBUs of high AA hops-- A simcoe/magnum combo might be a good call, or maybe go more aggressive with Simcoe/Chinook.  Boil for 60 minutes.
At flameout, add 3-4 oz of American Hops of your choice.
Ferment at 66-68 with Wyeast 1968 for two weeks.
Dry hop for 10 days with 3 oz of Simcoe and Amarillo or Simcoe and Centennial.

See how it comes out and adjust from there.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is a good, low ABV IPA possible?
« on: June 28, 2010, 02:09:15 PM »
The answer in my opinion is YES--- an "XPA" is essentially a low ABV beer with the character of an IPA.

I do not think an APA is what the original poster is looking for.  Most APAs are balanced, with caramel flavors, where the hops are prominent but not necesarily the sole focus of the beer.

If I were to attempt this, I would basically shoot for an OG:IBU ratio of 1:1.  I would skip the middle, flavor hops (because I feel that they will skew the IBU rating, perhaps unpredictably), use a lot of flameout hops, and a lot of dry hops. 

I would also use a decent amount of crystal malt, 8% or so. 

I would experiment with both American and British style yeasts.  I find that sometimes the esters in a London or British ale yeast will bring out more of the hop aroma in a beer. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sour(?) Slurry
« on: June 03, 2010, 11:04:33 AM »
How did you collect your blowoff in a sanitary manner?  I am used to collecting slurry from the bottom of the fermenter, which is rather easy to do cleanly.  When I run a blowoff, it's exposed to air and god knows what else in my basement.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is S-04 supposed to smell like...
« on: May 26, 2010, 03:03:24 PM »
Can be a little sulfuric, usually cleans up with conditioning.

Equipment and Software / Re: where can I get a decent 5 Liter cask
« on: May 25, 2010, 05:39:13 AM »
What I did to avoid over-oaking my beer (And, upon further review, I have a 10L barrell), is to store another 10L of non-oaked beer from the same recipe, and then blend the oaked and the non-oaked in the serving keg.  One time, this worked great. 

I checked my records and I fermented at 56 which is on the high side for the Munich Lager yeast, so I am guessing that it in fact is fermentation temp that caused this.  I found that the other beer in my log where I had noted poor head retention was a bitter that I made, fermented at 72, also quite warm.    I'm going to call this mystery "solved."

The head forms but quickly dissipates so that leads me to believe that  I "have all the protein you need, but other factors are interfering with them. My suggestion in this case would be to make a yeast starter each time you brew, aerate well and control the fermentation temperature of your wort as it ferments. "

It's possible that I underpitched, being a lager.  I fermented it a little on the warm side, 54 or so, so I am wondering if that contributes to this.

I have a Munich Dunkel on tap right now which I think is exactly what I was targeting in every way except one-- the head retention on the beer is poor.

The beer is well carbonated and pours with a perfect head.  But the head dissipates quite quickly, so quickly in fact that you can hear the bubbles popping (kind of like when you pour a soda, although not *that* quickly).
I do not have this problem with other beers BUT most of my other beers are highly hopped.

Obviously adding more hops is not an option for a malty style such as a Dunkel.

My malt bill was 
95% Wyermann Munich I malt.
2% Aromatic
2% Caramunich
1% Carafa Special II

I mashed at 152-154F for 90 minutes.  I added some chalk to the water to bring up the RA, and batch sparged.

Adding more Cara malts is not something I want to do as a solution.  Is there something I can do with my mash schedule to improve head retention?


The ""One-quarter ounce of whole hops contrast with three ounces of hop pellets" is a caption of a photo illustrating the APPEARANCE of pellet hops vs leaf.  By weight, pellets are slightly more efficient (10%).

Equipment and Software / Re: where can I get a decent 5 Liter cask
« on: May 14, 2010, 08:39:24 AM »
As someone who has a 5L oak barrel, I'd say if you want to just add oak to your barleywine, you should use oak cubes or chips.  The barrel is a lot of maintenance and unpredictability.  The only advantage to the barrel is that you can serve out of it, if you desire.  I would say in every other way, cubes or chips are superior when it comes to oak aging (not necessarily the case for barrel aging or spirit/wine aging)

Was overseas recently and discovered Schenk Stroop (translated as Sugar Syrup).. this stuff:

When I tried it, I thought it tasted a lot like the Belgian "D" candi syrup I've used in my dubbels.  I brought back 3 bottles of it.  Has anyone ever tried this stuff in a beer?  Does anyone know what it is, and is it similar to the candi syrup from belgium? 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Too green! Dry hop question
« on: April 19, 2010, 12:54:32 PM »
To add, I find the MOST grassy time for dry hopping is in the first few days-- leave those babies in for another week or so and the grassiness fades and the desirable hop character appears.  This is especially noticable when dry hopping at serving temps.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best yeast for "American" Tripel
« on: March 24, 2010, 01:30:27 PM »
I brewed a beer with 510 and found it to be extremely clean for a belgian yeast.  It was fermented in the low 60s.

Beer Recipes / Looking for feedback on Belgian Dark Strong malt bill
« on: March 15, 2010, 05:26:23 PM »
Brewing a Belgian Dark Strong on Friday, have a starter of Wyeast Abbey II (1762) already getting stepped up.

Just realized my pack of D2 Candi Syrup is only 1lb, not 1.5 lbs like the bottles used to be.....  Anyway, looking for feedback on my recipe:

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.75 lb Pilsner (Weyermann) (1.7 SRM) Grain 54.93 %
3.00 lb Munich I (Weyermann) (7.1 SRM) Grain 16.90 %
1.00 lb Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM) Grain 5.63 %
1.00 lb Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 5.63 %
0.50 lb Caramunich II (Weyermann) (63.0 SRM) Grain 2.82 %
1.50 lb Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 8.45 %
1.00 lb D2 Syrup (160.0 SRM) Sugar 5.63 %

2.00 oz Styrian Goldings [4.20 %] (60 min) Hops 27.5 IBU

Plan is to mash at about 150. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hop temerature?
« on: March 07, 2010, 05:44:32 PM »
In the past I've always dryhopped the day I kegged and it went into the cold, but I've never been happy with it.  After reading some of this and thinking about it, I'm going to try transfering from the fermenter to a Co2 flooded keg, add my hops and seal it for a couple of days before carbonating it in the cold.  Maybe it will be more of what I'm looking for.   8)

After years of trial and error, my latest way of doing this is:
- Primary until fermentation is complete, let the yeast drop
- Rack to a keg containing a sure screen.   Dry hop in the keg with leaf hops loose or pellet hops in a nylon bag.  Purge the headspace with CO2 and add enough head pressure to seal the keg.
- Store this keg at cellar temps for 10-14 days.
- Do a keg-to-keg transfer to my serving keg.  Carbonate and serve. 

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