I find Safale S-04 to be more like the Whitbread strain -- more bready and attenuative than Wyeast 1968. I haven't tried Nottingham or Windsor, though, so I can't say from personal experience if they'd get you closer.
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I am getting some oxidized notes in my last brew and am trying to figure where in the process that happened.
I have some of those type. A medium sized flat blade screw driver can be used to pry/release them from the bottom. I've never driven the poppets out.
Storing it in the fridge will cause a longer lag time when you pitch it into the wort.
Could you expand on this? Myself and lots of excellent homebrewers have followed numerous commercial breweries lead of pitching cold.
According to Dr. Clayton Cone, one of the foremost experts on yeast, the yeast should be within 15F of the wort they're being pitched into. Neva Parker, the Laboratory Manger at White Labs, suggests a maximum swing of 10F and ideally 5F. I agree with Neva 100%. Besides shocking and stressing the yeast, pitching warm yeast into a cool wort can cause many of the yeast to produce petite mutants, which will never grow or ferment properly and they can produce excessive H2S.
I understand to sanitize/purge keg with co2 to avoid oxidation, but should I also purge the head space just as in a serving vessel? Does putting the beer under pressure affect the secondary fermentation process? And if so do I need to vent the pressure building up?
I am amazed that there does seem to be sweetnes still in the brew since the hydrometer indicated 1.000 FG.
Any brewer worth their salt knows that a recipe is only a start. Good beer is a combination of skills that extend far beyond the recipe.