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Topics - homoeccentricus

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Ingredients / how much hops for late hop additions
« on: December 02, 2014, 06:00:13 PM »
We all know how much hops we need to add to reach our IBUs, and for dry-hopping. However, I am not sure how much to add for late hop additions, from - say - 10 minutes to flameout and hop stands. I see the (small) impact it has on bitterness, but apart from that? How many ounces per gallon (I wouldn't dare ask for grams per liter on this forum, of course) would you recommend?

General Homebrew Discussion / oxidation
« on: December 02, 2014, 04:33:02 PM »
Is there any reliable information of what the real impact is of contact between air and beer after primary fermentation is over? Say, I brew a simple IPA. After primary fermentation I put half of the beer in a fermentation bottle that becomes half full, and the other half in a fermentation bottle that becomes completely full. So in the first bottle  the contact surface between air and beer would be much greater than in the second. Suppose I don't stir or do anything else really stupid, would there be a big difference in taste between the first beer and the second, i.e. would the second beer have a more pronounced oxidized taste?

Asking this because I'm still a novice, and up to now I haven't paid much attention to this issue.

BTW, what a lot of people in Belgium seem to do when they are lagering their beer is  to add a lump of sugar. This would then ferment and create a "CO2 blanket" to protect the beer against oxidation. Does this work or is it a myth?

Beer Recipes / ferment for 12 weeks
« on: December 02, 2014, 04:13:37 PM »
My copy of Experimental Homebrewing arrived the other day. It has a recipe for a California Magnum Blonde, the "simplest, cleanest, and most interesting beer...".  It has pale malt, magnum pellets and US-05.  5% ABV, 45 IBU.

It also says: "Ferment in primary for 12 weeks." Is this fermentation time correct? Why would one do this? And would it really make such a difference?

General Homebrew Discussion / plastic
« on: November 30, 2014, 08:31:33 PM »
I tasted a (commercial) beer yesterday that had a strong plastic flavor. Any idea what that could be? It was barrel-aged, could that have anything to do with it?

The Pub / Zythograms
« on: November 30, 2014, 01:22:11 PM »
I'm in the final stages of negotiating the publication of a book with beer-related epigrams. Working title is "Zythograms". Since I know you all can't wait to get a copy, here's an appetizer:

My kitchen sink
Enjoys a pour
O' my beer much more
Than me, I think.

(to avoid all confusion:  :P)

Ingredients / adding heather honey to porter
« on: November 21, 2014, 07:57:03 PM »
I'm thinking of cloning the famous Swedish Stormaktsporter (used to be #1 of ratebeer). I don't have a lot of information. A few of the things I know is that it contains 10% heather honey, that the OG is 1100, and
the ABV 9.5.

Any tips on how to add the heather honey? This is typically a quite expensive variety of honey, so I want the porter to have as much of the taste as possible.

Beer Recipes / everett mash
« on: November 21, 2014, 08:55:20 AM »
I want to brew the BYO Hill Farmstead Everett clone. About the mash the article says the following:

"When crushing the grains keep the dark roasted grains(crystal-90,the chocolate malt and the roasted barley) separate from the other grains. Mix the pale malt, dextrine malt and caramalt with 20qts.(19L) to achieve a target mash temperature of159°F (71°C). Hold for 20 minutes, then mix in the darker grains. Hold for 5 minutes and begin the mash out procedure or lauter phase".

OG=1.088, FG=1.030.

I have never seen this before,  mashing at 71C, and for only 30 minutes. Why is it done like this? I have never tasted Everett, but it's supposed to be very creamy, and have a perfect equilibrium between sweetness and roastedness (if that is a word  :P)

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