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Messages - skyler

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are some batches of yeast just duds?
« on: March 21, 2017, 06:45:03 AM »
Plenty of things can make the yeast less viable, which is why I always recommend starters for liquid yeast use (among other reasons). It could be old (check the date). It could have been left in the too-cold part ofd the fridge, or kept too warm for some time. A starter will mitigate these issues.

Ingredients / Re: Cascade SMaSH - How much 5.5% AA hopping?
« on: March 21, 2017, 06:39:13 AM »
I'd bump the flameout addition to 1-2 oz, personally.

Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 21, 2017, 06:36:57 AM »
I made the move to CO2 extract for bittering, at least for this year (I bought a can of HopShot and filled so many syringes). So an AIPA will have 5-10 mL extract at 60-30 min, 1-2 oz at 10-5 mins, 3-4 oz whirlpool, and 2-3 oz dry per 5 gallons. I have had issues with filtering, but my hop spider had issues with extraction, so I now use a false bottom and a whirlpool, chill with an immersion chiller (sans pump), then squeeze and remove most of the hops when I get to the end of the kettle.

Ingredients / Re: Sacchra 50 in a Red IPA
« on: March 18, 2017, 11:33:26 PM »
Ok, my plan is to go 85% pale ale malt (maybe a blend of 2-row and golden promise), 15% Sacchra 50, and an Amarillo/Simcoe hop bill (bittered with HopShot). I'm thinking ~1.070 and about 100 paper IBUs.

Ingredients / Re: Sacchra 50 in a Red IPA
« on: March 17, 2017, 10:05:45 AM »
Denny, would you use the same amount of Sacchra 50 as you would Crystal, or could you realistically use 12-15% without producing a cloying caramel bomb? How have you used it?

Ingredients / Sacchra 50 in a Red IPA
« on: March 17, 2017, 05:47:00 AM »
Hi guys, I am looking into this Sacchra 50 grain. I have done some serious digging and I just haven't been able to find enough info to build a recipe with. Supposedly the grain behaves in between a Munich malt and a Crystal malt. It's color is 50L and Great Western claims that it "doesn't get in the way of the hops" and recommends it for a "Red IPA." The tricky thing is that it takes 12-15% to actually make a beer red. If this were a regular crystal malt, that would be an insane amount to add to an IPA. Has anyone brewed anything with just Sacchra 50 and base malt? What percentage should I use?

I was thinking either I'd go 12% in a ~1.066 malt bill with just domestic pale ale malt and sacchra 50 or I'd use ~6% and maybe ~2% carafa/blackprinz for color.

Keep temp ramping to encourage it to ferment a bit faster.

My wife and my cats will be very happy with the warmer house temperature. I ferment at ambient in differently-ventilated rooms in the house during the cold months.

Ok guys, I delayed my brewday because of a cold one weekend, then a stomach flu the next weekend. Now I have this 1.043 OG English Golden Ale fermenting at ~67º F with a first-generation pitch of Imperial A09 Pub (purportedly the same as 1968). I pitched the yeast at 65º F at 2:30 pm yesterday.

I had active fermentation and a three-quarter-inch layer of krausen this morning. I know this is a fast strain, but what are the chances the beer will be ready to keg Thursday night (in order to force carbonate Friday morning before work)?

Ingredients / Re: Hop hash
« on: February 24, 2017, 05:17:36 PM »
I guess I'm not too surprised that people aren't getting great aroma frohop hash.  Based on what I know of where it comes from, it seems like it would be highly oxidized which would affect aroma.

The good news is that it leaves very little hop matter in the wort/beer. I think it's potentially a very nice kettle addition for brewers who dislike losing wort to hops in their IPA. I got a ton of kettle  hop aroma from a 4 oz whirlpool in a 12 gal batch (the only other addition was co2 extract at the beginning of the boil).

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Ingredients / Re: Hop hash
« on: February 24, 2017, 07:35:42 AM »
So this was for a 5 gallon batch correct?

12 gallons. So, essentially, I used the same amount of hop hash as I would have used hops in this 1.055 pale ale. I didn't use an IPA amount, but I got an IPA amount of kettle aroma and somewhat less from the dry hop hash.

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Ingredients / Re: Hop hash
« on: February 23, 2017, 10:49:03 PM »
It's kegged and carbonated now, but still clearing in the keg. The dry hop quality is less intense than expected. I used 4 oz at 170F whirlpool for 30 mins and 4 oz dry in a 12 oz batch. I think it tastes like I used 6 oz of hops at flameout and maybe 2-3 oz dry (9 days). The hop quality is citrusy and a little piney - pretty much citra blended with something that can't stand up to citra (like a 50/50 citra/cascade blend).

I think this is a decent ingredient for a kettle hop and made for a nice, hoppy beer, but I don't think it's the next big thing. Personally, I got a lot more mileage from it as a kettle hop, but since the character is sorta one-note, I probably wouldn't use it solo. Anyway, it was a fun experiment and it didn't make bad beer, so go ahead and try it out if you're looking to reduce hop solids in your system.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: English yeast for beginners
« on: February 18, 2017, 11:28:16 AM »
That's interesting, I have never heard much about using S-04 that low. I have always advised using it around 64* because I have had better results at those temps than anything higher, but I have never used it near 60* I'm interested to do so, are you pitching extra yeast to use it in the mid to high 50's? What is the character at those temps?

I'll still use one pack for ~5.5 gallons under 1.060 if it's first-generation, but I do tend to pitch a lot of slurry when going 2nd or third generation. But this yeast is perfectly happy around 58F - it's neither slow to start nor finish around 58-62F.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Dark hefeweizen...Huh?
« on: February 17, 2017, 11:31:22 AM »
To begin with, 7 SRM is darker than most hefeweizens, IMO. Your recipe is probably a darker-than-average hefe. Add to that, malt extract will make beers darker than they would otherwise be and not all the calculators have extract entered correctly, for some reason. A 100% Pilsner malt Extract 1.050 OG beer will come out ~7 SRM, IME, where the same beer with 100% Pilsner malt would be ~3 SRM. I don't have much experience with wheat DME, but I would bet that it is darker than the pilsner extract. Personally, I would expect your beer to be ~8-9 SRM, which is orange to amber in color, like a good pale ale and a bit dark for a hefeweizen, but that doesn't mean it won't taste good.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: English yeast for beginners
« on: February 17, 2017, 10:00:57 AM »
One thing about English yeast - it is used in a ton of American beer, too. Firestone Walker and Deschutes are both widely-distributed American breweries that use English yeast as their primary strain. There are countless others. Still, some breweries use "American" yeasts to produce "English" styles of beers. English yeasts typically are less dry and more flocculant than American yeast strains and, when fermented at their best temperature (some like it colder than others), they tend to produce subtle yeast-driven aromas. They may also impact mouthfeel, but this could be from the unfermented sugars.

In England most of the top breweries aren't making super-yeast-driven peach-bubblegum-banana bombs. That homebrew we all made when we started that was 1.060+ OG, amber, opaque, and tasted like banana bread had about as much in common with the "ESB" style that we were shooting for as a contemporary India Pale Ale has with Kingfisher Beer.

That said, should you choose an English yeast strain, read what the yeast company says about the fermentation temperature and start at the low end of their recommendation or even a little lower, as the yeast-driven flavors can be exaggerated at the homebrew level. For S-04, Fermentis recommends 59-68F and I would strongly recommend 56-62F. Every time I taste a nasty English beer where someone blames S-04, I ask them and they indicate that they did not keep the fermentation temperature under 64F. Usually these brewers are used to fermenting US-05 or Nottingham at ~68 F and having "no problem," so they assume that S-04 has the same requirements when it doesn't. I am a major S-04 advocate as I like very much that I can ferment with it as cold as 54F and that no D-rest is needed when fermented in the high 50's to low 60's. Many yeast strains (Ringwood) need both a cool fermentation and a warm D-rest to produce great beer.

Additionally, if you are choosing a known low-attenuating strain, try using 5% simple sugar - I usually use dextrose, but plain table sugar works fine. I understand the temptation to mash super low (~148F) instead, but sugar is what the English use and it is more reliable, IME, than ultra-low-temperature mashing.

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