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Messages - skyler

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All Grain Brewing / Re: No-Sparge Partigyle
« on: January 10, 2018, 09:02:36 PM »
Ok, so here’s the current recipe/plan:

20 lbs Best Dark Munich
6.5 lbs Best Pilsner
8 oz Weyermann CaraAroma

144F/158F/168F mash, with 7.5 gallons run off (7 gals for doppelbock and 2 qts for small beer). Brew doppelbock, then add 6.5 gals 180F water, 12 oz medium crystal, and 8 oz pale chocolate malt to the drained grains and run off into kettle with 2 qts of 1st run wort. Depending on the gravity, add the appropriate amount of hops to produce a balanced mild or English brown ale.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: No-Sparge Partigyle
« on: January 10, 2018, 05:39:18 PM »
I think that is a splendid idea!  A German lager, and a duo German-English ale!?  You could even add an ounce or two of biscuit malt and EKG or Fuggle hops for a more obvious English effect.

If the first runnings are an expected 22 srm and 1.084, what should I expect from the second runnings (before I add anything), in terms of SRM and og?

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All Grain Brewing / Re: No-Sparge Partigyle
« on: January 10, 2018, 03:45:14 PM »
Boiling the second wort first is an interesting idea. My plan had been to do a doppelbock with something experimental (and use a low-attenuating yeast). Since there’s very little crystal in the doppelbock, I could add some to the small beer and a little chocolate malt - sort of a Munich mild?

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All Grain Brewing / No-Sparge Partigyle
« on: January 10, 2018, 04:16:14 AM »
I've been doing some Hochkurz No-Sparge batches lately, and have enjoyed the convenience and ease of experimenting with step mashes when I forgo the sparge. But I am getting about a 15-20% efficiency drop, which leaves me wondering how effective of a partigyle I could try. The idea would be to fill the tun with a second full boil volume of water immediately after draining it of the first batch's sweet wort. Then I would drain the cooler tun about 90 mins later when the first beer has chilled and gone into the fermenter. Is there anything wrong with this plan?

General Homebrew Discussion / When a LHBS Gets It Wrong
« on: January 06, 2018, 02:29:02 AM »
Are there certain little foibles about your LHBS that tick you off? What are the things your LHBS doesn’t do that you wish it did?

I went to an LHBS today that has three choices of British pale malt (which is awesome), but carries only domestic caramel malt, Munich malt, and Vienna malt. And they weren’t “out;” they just don’t carry imported caramel, Munich, or Vienna malts. To add salt to the wound, they also don’t carry oxygen tanks or epsom salt (I know I can get those elsewhere, but I go to the LHBS expecting to overpay and one-stop-shop (or else I’d buy everything online). Gears officially ground.

I mean, I’m very LHBS-blessed. I live within two miles of two decent LHBSes, one of which is excellent. And there are a half-dozen other options within 30 miles. But man is it frustrating to wade through rush hour traffic to be so disappointed.

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Beer Recipes / Re: Dunkel
« on: December 31, 2017, 11:46:44 PM »
I've been thinking about Dunkels lately too.  Yours looks similar to my approach in the past.  But I'm thinking the Pils really doesn't do anything, and I'm not sure I entirely like the contribution Melanoidin makes (or any caramel, for that matter) and I'm not sure it would do much at that % anyway.  I might skip those and fill out the space w/ more of the Bo Dark.  Love that malt.  Color would be about equal (what, ~16° SRM?) and the flavor would be straight up Munich.  Just kinda where I'm thinking I might go.

It's about 16.6 SRM according to BeerSmith. The pilsner malt is to increase the enzymatic activity in the mash. I read several sources that indicated all-Munich recipes can under-attenuate due to a lack of enzymes. The melanoidin malt is, in part, to make up for the reduced amount of Munich malt. I am open to using more/less/none. I want to avoid using any caramel malt because I want to maximize crispness/dryness. I am also open to altering the hop bill, though Sterling is the only Noble-style hop I have in the freezer.

Beer Recipes / Dunkel
« on: December 31, 2017, 10:16:09 PM »
I want to do a Munich Dunkel and wondered how this looked to everyone:

60% Weyermann Munich II
18.5% Best Pilsner
15% Bohemian Dark Malt (essentially a 7L Munich)
3.7% Melanoidin Malt
2.8% Carafa Special II

1 oz Sterling @ 60 mins (16.6 IBUs)
.5 oz Sterling @ 20 mins (5 IBUs)

Hochkurz Mash (45 mins @ 144F and 45 mins @ 158F)


M84 Bohemian Lager Slurry

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: December 24, 2017, 07:21:27 PM »
My triple rye amber ale.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Specialty grain %'s when increasing base malt
« on: December 19, 2017, 01:37:18 PM »
Yeah, I typically scale all diastatic malts (pale, Munich, aromatic, etc.) and not roasted or crystal malts based on amber ales turning to brown ales in a less efficient system.

Beer Recipes / Re: Rye IPA recipe
« on: December 13, 2017, 02:41:57 AM »
Keep in mind that cararye is very biscuity, fwiw.

Ingredients / Re: Gold Rush Toasted Pale Malt
« on: December 10, 2017, 05:53:48 PM »
Between them and Mecca Grade, I'm developing a real fondness for Full Pint barley.

Denny, would you consider GR fundamentally different from other full pint base malts? Do you recall if it was in the 1-2º L or 3-4º L range?

The first "full pint" I got was from Great Western and I was not a fan (and I love GW's pale and "pale ale" 2-row). I tried Mecca Grade and liked it all right, but found it overpriced at nearly double the price of imported base malt and triple the price of domestic. I haven't tried Gold Rush yet, but wondered if it was more akin to a British base malt or a domestic 2-row. I can't seem to find a malt analysis anywhere and the website is pretty barren. The name they use at Steinbart's ("toasted pale") implies that it is somehow differently-processed.

Ingredients / Gold Rush Toasted Pale Malt
« on: December 10, 2017, 04:50:59 AM »
Has anyone brewed with this ingredient? I haven't been able to find anything about it, but it sells for $75/50 lbs at my LHBS ($15 more than golden promise and twice as much as GW malts). 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sage flavor with Conan
« on: December 09, 2017, 08:31:04 AM »
I used A04 a bunch. I got powdery yeast, peachy esters, lowish attenuation, and a rich, silky body. I never encountered "herbal" flavors.

I fermented from 60-68F. Unworthy yeast, IMO.

Ingredients / Weyermann CaraRye
« on: December 02, 2017, 11:03:34 PM »
I didn't see a ton of information about this malt before I brewed with it. I assumed that it would be more or less similar to regular crystal malt, with perhaps a bit more body or a slightly different flavor. I was wrong - cara rye is the boldest biscuity specialty grain I have ever used (even more than special roast).

I brewed a rye amber ale (77% domestic pale ale malt, 12.2% rye malt, 6% cara rye, 3% melanoidin malt, 1.8% chocolate rye), and it had the boldest biscuit flavor I have ever had in a beer. I mean, like a bold "fat tire" sort of whole grain cracker flavor.

Several months ago, I brewed a rye brown ale with a similar grain bill (twice the chocolate rye and with regular crystal malt instead of cara rye). Since that beer wasn't particularly biscuity, I am convinced the cara rye is the difference-maker here. Anyway, the beer is technically very good if you like that biscuit flavor. So, ymmv, but I thought there should be something searchable so that other people are appropriately informed about this grain.

Has anyone had any similar or different experiences?

All Grain Brewing / Hochkurz No-Sparge
« on: December 01, 2017, 04:02:43 AM »
My system was set up with 10-12 gallon batch-sparged batches in mind. It's a 17-gallon kettle and a 70 qt cooler. However, lately I have been brewing more 5-6 gallon batches, which has led me to trying out the "no sparge" method, since I had extra space in the mash tun. Anyway, I got the idea to try a hochkurz mash since I noticed that I was waiting longer to heat up my strike water and because I recently had success with that process for lager brewing. The trick has been water chemistry - I am using brunwater to calculate the strike water, then calculating the complete water profile.

I am using about 1.35 qt strike water per lb of grain for the first rest, then the rest of the necessary water for the second rest.

The goal is 144F for 40 minutes, then 158 for 30. Since I have less water to heat up the first time, the net added time is maybe 5 minutes from a standard no-sparge and 10 minutes from a standard batch sparge. I'm still determining what, if anything, this adds to my beers, but I am getting good attenuation. Does anyone else do anything like this?

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