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Messages - skyler

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First time lagering
« on: November 19, 2017, 05:00:35 AM »
2 packs of dry yeast (rehydrated as directed) is what I would recommend for a first lager.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation timeline with wlp007
« on: November 16, 2017, 09:52:00 PM »
That is much warmer than I take that strain. I doubt you're getting diacetyl, but I wouldn't be surprised by some unwanted yeast-driven flavors.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Transatlantic Goldilocks Yeast
« on: November 16, 2017, 09:36:46 PM »
Have you tried 1469? That's my go-to strain for British styles, and I've used it for a couple American styles as well. (Pale/Brown ales, porter.)

If you have used it for and American IPA I'm curious what you thought of the outcome. I got out of brewing IPAs before I "discovered" this strain, but plan on adding them back into my rotation.

I didn't think to try 1469 for American style ales. I have tried it for English ales and liked it slightly less than 002. I actually adored 006 for bitters and stouts, and would like to try it for American styles, but it's rarely available.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Transatlantic Goldilocks Yeast
« on: November 16, 2017, 06:37:55 PM »
As someone who brews mostly British and American styles, and transatlantic hybrids (like an off-style brown ale or porter), I have used lots of different yeast strains and experimented with temperatures (fermentation and mash) and adjuncts to determine which strains do American and English styles how I like them. After I settled on 1968/002/A09 as my favored English strain and pacman/A18 as my favorite American strain, I found it annoying/expensive to maintain two different strains. I often split batches between liquid strains and dry strains, and I do feel like US-05 is a worthy and convenient stand-in strain for a dry IPA and that s-04 is great for dark british and American styles when fermented very cool. This led to trying out various "goldilocks" strains like 007, 051, Conan, and 1311.

A15 (Anchor ale yeast) makes a great malty or balanced American style and is fine for a British dark beer or a pre-2010 style American pale or amber ale, but I don't love it for a dry, hoppy beer. Additionally, I find it to have a narrow ideal temperature range (62-66, imo) and it is less reliably fast or flocculant than other options. I use imperial strains because they're local and I like the increased cell count.

A38/wy1318 (hopworks/ne breweries) is a great yeast for English styles, and fine for the trendy ne IPA style, but I haven't gotten it to be attenuative enough for certain styles of IPA. I like it enough for a red ale or stout or anything under about 1.060, though. It clears fast and fully, and it works at a fairly wide temp range (60-68 F).

A09 (Fuller's/Deschutes) is an incredible and versatile yeast, but it doesn't excel at anything dry and big - though it's my first choice for a session IPA or most English styles.

A04 (Conan/Vermont) is actually my least favorite American strain for IPA. I had better luck using it for brown ales and porters. It was hard to get it to clear. The mouthfeel was great, though.

A01 (Stone) ostensibly this is the ideal dual-use strain, but I found some issues. While it makes a good IPA because of the citrusy esters (even at cold temps), it has been far more dry than I would like and I didn't like the flavors it contributed to my dark ales or bitters (too citrusy). In side-side tests, I preferred US-05 for IPA and S-04 for a bitter. It is also less flocculant than advertised, ime.

So, my conclusion is that the best Goldilocks yeast is A38, with the caveat that I would still use US-05 or pacman for an IPA over 1.060.

And I think 007/A01/1098 shouldn't be called "dry English" or "British," but that "San Diego Ale" or "Southern California Ale" would be a more appropriate name.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Black IPA, Citra and Mosaic?
« on: November 16, 2017, 05:43:21 PM »
For my money, cascade + simcoe  (1-1) or cascade + simcoe + citra (2-2-1) pairs well with a subtly roasty black IPA. The dark malt does seem to alter the character or perception of hop aromas, imo. What was "fruity" may seem "herbal," but in a good way.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Black IPA/CDA on nitro?
« on: November 12, 2017, 03:42:24 AM »
Just wanted some opinions on if anyone has done this and if it worked out well. I’m Making a black IPA soon and thought I put it on my nitro tap. If the taste doesn’t work out I can just put it on CO2 but wanted to give a try. Has anyone done this?

My opinion depends on what kind of CDA you made. If you took every possible step to reduce roasty bitterness (cold steeped carafa or something), and it is a very highly dry-hopped/aromatic beer, the nitro may strip out some of that hop aroma, IME. However, if your CDA is more of a hoppy stout/porter (chocolate malt or roast barley in the mash and less dry/late hopping), then the nitro can smooth it out and make is more sessionable.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Soy sauce stout
« on: November 10, 2017, 04:21:01 PM »
I agree with everyone that you used way too much dark malt. 1 lb chocolate malt and 4 oz black malt would be plenty of dark malt. Black malt is very intense and 1 lb of it on top of 2 lbs of chocolate malt would make for a very acidic mash, as Denny said. Also, consider that fermentation temperature will almost always be 4-8 degrees warmer than ambient temperature. In my experience, 4 degrees for lagers and 6 degrees for ales is pretty typical. Your fermometer wasn't lying to you.

My advice for next time: try out a recipe calculating site like brewtoad to help you at the planning stage. I also recommend using published recipes for inspiration. The AHA site has plenty of great recipes to check out.

My advice for this batch: give it a few more days or a week and see how it is. Don't try to doctor it; that has never been effective at managing off flavors, IME.

Beer Recipes / Re: red rye ale
« on: November 08, 2017, 11:11:19 PM »
Frankly, at that gravity, I'd shoot for something like 30-35 ibus from the nugget and I don't think chinook would hurt.

I'm making something similar this weekend:

68% gw northwest pale ale malt
22% rye malt
5% cararye
2.5% melanoidin
2.5% chocolate rye


Fwh ctz (30 ibus)
1 oz galaxy 5 min
1 oz galaxy whirlpool
.5 oz ctz whirlpool
1 oz galaxy dh
.5 oz ctz dh

Imperial House yeast (wlp007 equivalent)

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Conditioning with Sinamar
« on: October 23, 2017, 03:35:05 PM »
But ya know, there,s more to a porter than just color.  I wonder how close you'll get by just making it darker.

That is exactly the question i want answered. I suspect 4 oz of sinamar in a keg will add more than just color.

What do you expect it to add?

A smooth roasty flavor akin to cold-steeped carafa, but less intense. Added to the chocolate malt included in the brown ale, I suspect it will produce a smooth pitch-black porter.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Conditioning with Sinamar
« on: October 23, 2017, 04:32:08 AM »
But ya know, there,s more to a porter than just color.  I wonder how close you'll get by just making it darker.

That is exactly the question i want answered. I suspect 4 oz of sinamar in a keg will add more than just color.

Kegging and Bottling / Keg Conditioning with Sinamar
« on: October 22, 2017, 05:20:55 AM »
I typically brew 11-12 gallon batches and split them into two fermenters. Most of the time I'll use different yeasts or dry hop differently or something.

But I had an idea for a new experiment, and wondered how to make it work. I want to brew an American brown ale, keg one half as-is, then keg-condition the other half with enough sinamar to take it firmly into porter territory. I figured I could just add the sinamar to the sugar and water that I boil to prime the keg, but it is unclear to me how much fermentable sugar is in 4 oz of sinamar. Is there enough for me to concern myself with, or should I just treat it like an unfermentable adjunct?

I thought some of you guys would be interested in reading about this beer that I am drinking right now in my hotel in Kuala Lumpur. Anyway, Guinness Bright. This was poured from a can and it is a regular CO2-carbonated beer.

A: Tart and roasty, similar to cold filtered coffee (not cold brewed). No heat. Slightly fruity, but no more than cold coffee, so really that is the dominant aroma. No hops. No caramel. Nothing really other than an acidic coffee-like roasty-fruity aroma.

A: Black and crystal-clear. Maybe 5 SRM lighter than regular Guinness. Maybe the same color. Tan head that lasts about a tenth of a second. 

T: Smooth, balanced bitterness, leaning towards sweet. Mild flavor with a low-level Hershey's chocolate aftertaste. Flavor is pretty simple: sweet and slightly tart, with the same savory "soy sauce" quality that I get from regular Guinness and attribute to the partially soured mash.

M: Light-medium body, like a mass-produced Pale or Amber Ale.  Not creamy. Not sprightly. Moderate carbonation.

OA: This is a fine porter or stout, but nothing to write home about. It would be for someone who finds Black Butte Porter "too roasty and hoppy" and who wants a beer to taste like cheap coffee. It's not for me, but it really isn't bad. It is certainly unique. The tartness is pretty bold for a mass-produced beer of any kind. I wouldn't order one in a bar, but I don't hate it.

An update: While I had a substantial lag (I understand this is common with these strains), there was some visible fermentation at 48F when the chamber was set to 46F. I increased the ambient temperature of the fermentation chamber to 48F and found fermentation going actively at 54F the next day. I suppose the slower start was what lead to the decreased temperature initially. I let it ride with the ambient temp set to 48F. I was planning to let it finish, then raise to ~70F for a day or two before crashing to 30F, racking into 5 gal carboys (I don't trust my 8 gal buckets for long-term storage), and lagering it until mid-August.

I ferment using a freezer set to a temperature typically 6º F cooler than my target fermentation temperature. This has never ceased to get me within 2º of my target fermentation temperature. However, I pretty exclusively brew ales, and mostly all using the same 4-5 American and British yeast strains (Chico, Pacman, BRY-97, S-04, and 1968). I tried my hand at a pale lager for the first time in a decade of brewing (5.5 gallons with S-189, 5.5 gallons with MJ Bohemian Lager) and got active fermentation rolling at just 2º warmer than my ambient temperature. This means I am 4º below my target temperature of 52º F. I adjusted the temp control to let it get a few degrees warmer, but I am wondering if lager yeasts tend to produce less heat during fermentation than ale yeasts do. Does anyone have experience with this?

Classifieds / What is Wheaton's Law?
« on: June 12, 2017, 05:00:00 PM »
STTNG 4 LIFE, but Wesley was the weakest part of the early seasons. I'm entertained by Wil's low key career roles; Eureka and the Guild wouldn't be the same without him.

My lower leg:

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