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Messages - skyler

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Beer Recipes / Re: Desire a PNW stout. Will this work?
« on: May 07, 2010, 03:49:23 PM »
I believe Deschute's bitters both their porter and stout with Galena. Either way, I think using EKG would be unnecessary and maybe even wasteful for bittering an PNW-style stout. I would personally use CTZ, Nugget, Galena... something aggressive and high-AA for bittering, then either Cascade/something citrusy or Willamette/something neutral at 10 min...

But really, I think there is a lot of variety between stouts here in the PNW. Some sweet, some dry, some big, some very big... Generally there is always roasted barley and always American hops... and the OG usually hovers around 1.060. Otherwise, one can be quite different from another. Shakespeare Stout and Obsidian Stout, for example (in my opinion the two most important PNW stouts) are pretty different beers.

I followed the "add carafa with sparge water" method, and I treated my water as an IPA and it worked great - an outstanding beer and the best black IPA I've had (well, Hopworks Secession Black is also damn good).

Thanks for the help.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Are First Round Results Posted?
« on: April 29, 2010, 02:26:15 PM »
I received two sets of scoresheets for one of my entries. I am curious - did it get two rounds of tastings (one of the score sheets says position 4 of 4 and the other says position 5 of 5). Did I get someone else's scoresheet? For the record, it was a Marzen entered in the West region. Also the entry numbers on all of my scoresheets are different from the entry numbers I see on the registration page as belonging to my beers.

The Pub / Homebrew in the Classroom
« on: April 26, 2010, 07:04:46 PM »
Right now I am in my final law school class. We were told we could bring beer and food, since we are just watching a presentation. I brought a 5 gal keg of Belgian Golden Strong Ale to the classroom. My professor was impressed (and he knew what Duvel was).

Has anyone else brought homebrew to a classroom?

All Grain Brewing / Re: SS mesh vs false bottom
« on: April 25, 2010, 02:30:08 PM »
The downside to SS mesh tubes is that the HBS makes a lot of money selling those expensive false bottoms. ;)

All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing at Twice Strength then Dilluting
« on: April 25, 2010, 02:28:02 PM »
I suspect you would have greater kettle caramelization and a darker beer - so I would try this with a style where that wouldn't really hurt, like a Scottish ale or a Porter.

Saturday I'm brewing what I'm calling an ASB - it's an amber-colored 1.058-ish beer brewed to about 50 IBU with exclusively Mt. Hood hops,  and 1272.

10lbs GW 2-row
1 lb Thomas Fawcett 55L
4 oz Thomas Fawcett 165L
4 oz Victory

US Mount Hood    4.6 % AA    1.50 oz  FWH
US Mount Hood    4.6 % AA    2.00 oz  60 Min From End
US Mount Hood    4.6 % AA    0.50 oz  30 Min From End
US Mount Hood    4.6 % AA    2.00 oz  At turn off

Mash at 150F for 60 min
1272 (fermented around 63F)

Then Tuesday I'm brewing what I'm calling "New World Pale Ale" - a hopbursted APA with Simcoe and Nelson Sauvin.

The Pub / Re: Ginger or Maryanne?
« on: April 20, 2010, 06:16:38 PM »
My girlfriend went to high school with a (now retired) porn star whose pseudonym is Mary Anne. However, in her first porn performance, she used the name "Ginger." Presumably, she learned that "ginger" is another way of saying "redhead" (she's blonde).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Correct Way to Use Polyclar?
« on: April 20, 2010, 02:23:07 PM »
Thanks, I will try that on the next beer that I want to get clear (an ESB I'm planning on brewing on Saturday).

General Homebrew Discussion / The Correct Way to Use Polyclar?
« on: April 20, 2010, 11:41:21 AM »
Now that I keg, I have gotten more interested in working to get my beers *very* clear. Of course I fine with whirlfloc and I do a 90 min boil. I don't own a counterflow chiller or a plate chiller, and I don't expect to buy one real soon, and my kettle is such that whirlpooling isn't really a viable option (eventually I will ket a keggle, but not until I have a back yard to brew in). I have looked to post-fermentation fining, cold crashing (sometimes I lager my ales for a month at 32F before kegging, but this doesn't work if I dry-hop).

My girlfriend is vegetarian, as are many of my friends. As such, I can't use any finings that are made from dead animals, like gelatin. It seems like Polyclar is the only non-animal post-fermentation fining that is commonly used by homebrewers, but the version sold at my LHBS appears to have incorrect instructions. For a 5 gallon batch, how much should I add, and when. My instructions say 2 tsp disolved in a pint. Is that right? I have been told that it is 2oz (or the whole package) that needs to be disolved, and that boiled water is fine to use. Before I try this again (presumably when I keg my next batch), I would like to get my method down.

Also, let me know if these facts are true:

1. Polyclar requires I force carb (not a problem)
2. I need to wait 2 weeks after adding the polyclar to start drinking the beer
3. My first pint or two will be filled with plastic and trub-like gunk
4. If I use too much, Polyclar strips good flavor from my beer
5. I can still keg-hop when I use polyclar
6. The beer or water I use for the Polyclar to dissolve into before I put it in my beer needs to be room temperature

Thanks ahead of time.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewhouse efficiency 'stuck' near 60%
« on: April 14, 2010, 08:39:55 AM »
Yeah, you really ought to do a full boil - it effects more than just your efficiency. I would get a 10 gal pot (my 8 gal is just barely big enough), but you could also just do smaller batches.

The Pub / Re: OK homebrewers, where should I live?
« on: April 09, 2010, 02:34:25 AM »
It gets way too damn hot in the south, too. Way too damn hot. My only real complaint besides red necks. But you find them everywhere.

Not Berkeley. But I'd trade the homeless for rednecks, any day. Belligerent bums are a serious problem in Berkeley.

The Pub / Re: OK homebrewers, where should I live?
« on: April 09, 2010, 02:29:09 AM »
I have lived in the following places:

In California: Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Berkeley, Davis (near Sacramento), an Oakland suburb

New York City (Greenwich Village)

Bethlehem, PA

Portland, OR (currently)

London, UK (the old Borough of Clerkenwell)

Siena, Italy

Santander, Spain

Nice, France

I would not hesitate to tell you my favorite was London and my next favorite was NYC. Besides New York City, I'm not crazy about the east coast, really. I like California more than the PNW. Also, the job market in Portland is remarkably bad. Texas has a strong economy, at the moment. I like the bay area slightly more than southern California. I actually really like San Diego, but I've never lived there. And I think Oakland, CA is very underrated - a really great place to live in/around. However, Sacramento is near skiing and all that, but a fraction of the cost of living in the bay area. But I'm not crazy about Sacramento. Santa Barbara is great if you don't mind a slow place, but I like more excitement than that sleepy, beautiful town can offer. If you're a hippy, I recommend Santa Cruz - I have family there, and I enjoy it immensely.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Gambrinus Pale Malt?
« on: April 08, 2010, 05:10:09 PM »
One of my favorite PNW breweries, Double Mountain in Hood River, OR; uses Gambrinus Pils as their base malt in nearly everything they brew. I find it to be a nice alternative to European Pils malt, since I try to keep things local as much as possible when it isn't too much of a hassle. I'm guessing you have gambrinus pale, not pils, which is, IMHO, fairly similar to Briess Pale, though I rarely use it since GW 2-row is much cheaper for me.

Don't worry about being out of the Sinamar, Carafa does as well or better.  The trick is to cold sparge the black malt.  Many breweries are adding it directly to the mash tun after they start sparging.  Drop your sparge temperature to 155 to 165, the lower being better. 

On water treatments, think of this as an IPA, if you treat your IPA, treat this beer also.  Good luck

So you're saying I should not add the carafa until I have drained the first runnings? And then I should sparge colder than usual (I batch sparge). Would this amount of carafa still do it?

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