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2341
Pimp My System / Re: Rollera
« on: April 20, 2010, 06:53:03 AM »
. .assuming it's physically anchored to the moving dolly.

Yes I put long lag screws up thru each "leg" physically anchoring it to the dolly.

2342
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Too green! Dry hop question
« on: April 19, 2010, 10:35:50 PM »
  Lately I've been experimenting more with distilled hop oil for aroma as well...I'm getting pretty close to the result I'm really looking for with that. 

That would be "hop shots" ?

2343
My first dry hop beer (pils) tastes really nice....just has these hop ghosts
floating around in the brew. I know this is normal but the hop ball containing one oz
of hop flower is allowing ghostly floaties....normal???  May go away with time?
I plan to leave the hops in for now....can't hurt anything. real PITA to get them out
of the keg....

2344
Ingredients / Packing Peanuts
« on: April 19, 2010, 10:24:05 PM »
Starch..... ;D

Discussion Please.  (seems repulsive to me, but was in another heading under fav online venders)

2345
Classifieds / Re: Best Online/Mailorder Homebrew Supply Shop
« on: April 19, 2010, 10:15:26 PM »
The trash factor probably does not matter to you folks... :o
 

Cynmar, not a HBS, ships with starch based packing peanuts. They dissolve in water and you could even mash them. I’m not sure how food grade they are but wouldn’t it be cool to brew a packing peanut beer?

Kai


Uhhhhh......pk pnt br...ewwwwwww....

2346
Pimp My System / Re: Rollera
« on: April 19, 2010, 09:41:40 PM »
It is sturdy for sure made outta 2X6 ers...not thinkin it is gonna tip easily.

2347
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Organization
« on: April 19, 2010, 07:05:48 AM »

2348
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs Clarity-Ferm
« on: April 17, 2010, 11:24:22 AM »
I see it is an emzyme, so I am no longer thinking polyclar.

2349
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs Clarity-Ferm
« on: April 16, 2010, 10:00:04 PM »
Interesting. Please let us know what you hear.  I wonder now if it is a proprietary
item or if an MSDS exists (and by law an MSDS should exist).
Polyclar comes to my mind.....

2350
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: when to rack to secondary fermenter?
« on: April 16, 2010, 09:57:44 PM »
Sound advice major.  I would say that waiting a couple extra days could even mean
wait an entire week...won't hurt a thing.  The beer will tell you when it is done, you
should not try to tell the beer when you think it is done....

2351
Wood/Casks / Re: Treating a wine barrel
« on: April 16, 2010, 11:16:03 AM »
Mike,
From Vadai World Trade (Vadai Wine)

When you store your empty barrels after use, do the following to insure that the barrel
does not grow bacteria.

Use Sodium Carbonate and hottest water to remove tartrate deposits.
Rinse until water runs clear.
Use Citric Acid, and hottest water and the same exact proportions of Sodium Carbonate.
Rinse until  water runs clear.

(he did not say what the measure of Sodium Carbonate was sorry)

Then use the following options; A, B, or C.

Option A
Fill the barrel with water and the following solution.
(1 tsp Sulfite and 1 tsp Citric Acid per gallon of water.)
Bung hole tightly with the bung.  Top up weekly with more water.
Change all the solution monthly.

Option B
For barrels of 30 Gallons and up, use 3-5 gallons of water.
Put in the water ¼ Cup of Sulfite and ½ Cup of Citric Acid.
Bung Hole tightly with bung.
Roll the barrel around and store it in a cool place on one head.
Roll the barrel around and stand it on the other head every 2 weeks.
Change the solution every month.
Repeat this procedure until the barrel is to be used.

When ready to re-use the barrel…
You’ll need to get the sulfite and citric acid out of the wood.
empty and rinse the barrel well.
Using Boiling hot water 10% of the volume of the barrel,
roll around, stand on each head separately, empty and rinse well.
Carefully smell….the interior of the barrel, you should not smell any S02.
Repeat hot water treatment  if necessary.


Option C
Burn Sulfur to generate S02 gas, sterilizing as it burns.
After Cleaning (option B when ready to reuse procedure)
Let barrel drain 1-2 days until dry.
Plug bung hole with paper towel to keep acetobacter out.
Burn the correct amount of wick or disk every week for 4-6 weeks,
recovering the bung hole after every burn.

NOTE: Sulfur wicks / sticks may drip Sulfur a big NO NO.  Disks burn down to pure ash
and may by this factor be a better product.

Repeat every month. Recover Bung hole. soak barrel water tight just before using.

The best way to keep a barrel sound is to keep it full of wine (beer).
When full, you should check it and top it up weekly with more wine (beer)…NOT water.

 :P

2352
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: S23 Lager Yeast from Fermentis
« on: April 15, 2010, 09:55:04 PM »
I have used this yeast twice to make a classic american pilsner.  I fermented around 60 deg. F.  Both times my beer ended up having a fruity character to it.  I did not mind it but it definitely did not have the clean lager character you would expect.  Next time I make this beer I will either ferment cooler and/or use a different yeast.

Happy Brewing,
Brandon

That is Spot on Brandon...only I won't use it again. It just has a definate flavor.....

2353
Pimp My System / Rollera
« on: April 14, 2010, 06:53:30 AM »
Well, I put this over in the wood/cask section because it
also fits there. But I thought it could go here as well because
It is something I made that works actually quite well.
Gives new meaning to the lyrics "Roll out the barrels"



Tall enough to rack in to corney kegs, and tall enough to be a pain to
get fresh beer back into...

2354
All Things Food / Re: For Weazletoe.....CANDIED Bacon
« on: April 11, 2010, 08:18:49 PM »


Well????? ::)

2355
Ingredients / Re: Cherries
« on: April 11, 2010, 08:15:49 PM »

  You'll be OK as long as you don't mix the cyanide with zinc ;D

Rolf pretty funny that one!

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