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Topics - chezteth

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Beer Recipes / bopils and carapils
« on: January 04, 2014, 04:51:03 PM »
I know that carapils has been discussed at length here and what carapils is used for. However, several recipes I have looked at for a bopils are simple yet call for approx. 5% carapils. Is it really necessary to use carapils in a bopils? If not would you do something different in the process to account for it?


General Homebrew Discussion / onion / garlic flavor in octoberfest
« on: January 09, 2013, 02:07:03 AM »
Greetings All,
   I brewed up 10 gal. of octoberfest back in September.  After kegging it and letting it lager for a few weeks I detected a strong sulphury, onion / garlic flavor and aroma.  I was going to dump it but just didn't "get around to it". After it sat for awhile longer this off flavor seems to be dissipating.  After boiling the wort I realized I had a couple extra gallons.  I pitched Nottingham in the couple extra gallons.  The "Octoberfest Ale" doeesn't have this off aroma / flavor.  My recipe is listed below.  One note with the yeast starter.  I originally made 2 - 1L starters with the Octoberfest blend.  The friend I brew with couldn't brew that particular weekend so I mixed them together in a glass growler and put them in my beer cooler / keezer.  Then the week before we brewed I built up the starter.  I decanted most of the liquid from the starter so I wouldn't add too much volume to each fermentor.  I fermented in two 6gal glass carboys.  I'm not sure if this is an ingredient issue or a process issue.  I have made this beer before but only changed the 15 minute hop addition to strisselspalt since I had it available.  I used a different hop last year and didn't get that flavor in my beer.  Any help with this phenomenon would be appreciated.

74% Briess Bonlander Munich
26% Briess Pilsen
28.35g Yakima Magnum, boil @ 60min
28.35g Strisselspalt, boil @ 15min
6g calcium chloride, mash
2.5g gypsum, mash
15mL phosphoric acid, mash
2pkg Wyeast Octoberfest Blend into 1gal starter

Decoction mash with short rest at 122 deg F, then a rest at 146 deg F then 156 deg F then mash out at 168 deg F. Fly sparge for 1 hour.
Boil for 90 minutes.
Chill to 45 deg. F then transfer to carboys.
Pitch yeast. Ferment at 50deg. for 3 weeks then short diacetyl rest.
Transfer to kegs and crash to 35 deg F.


Kegging and Bottling / Do I need to add more yeast?
« on: July 18, 2012, 03:33:04 PM »
Greetings.  I have an American Brown Ale that has been in the primary for 2 months.  Will there still be plenty of yeast in suspension to facilitate bottle conditioning?  Or, should I add some dry yeast at bottling time?


Yeast and Fermentation / Scorched my starter wort
« on: April 30, 2012, 01:20:41 PM »
Yesterday I made a small yeast starter for a kolsch.  I didn't realize I scorched it before I added the yeast to it.  In my hopes to salvage it I still put it on the stir plate and continued like it was still ok.  I would normally chill and decant most of the wort.  I know that a kolsch is a very delicate beer and any strong flavors would come through.  Do you think I could get away with using this yeast starter or should I make a new one?


Kegging and Bottling / Storing full 750ml belgian beers
« on: April 15, 2011, 07:13:57 PM »
Hi all,
  I just bottled a belgian dubbel in 750ml belgian bottles which are corked. Do I have to store them on their side like wine bottles? I just want to be sure they are being stored properly.

Ingredients / Old Weyermann Hefeweisen LME... what to do with it?
« on: November 13, 2010, 11:26:39 PM »
Hello All,
     I have two 8.8 lb containers of Weyermann Hefeweisen LME that was given to me.  They are getting old so I am sure the color is a bit darker than it should be.  I am trying to come up with a beer to brew with it.  I was thinking of an old ale.  Any other ideas?


I was brewing with a friend today.  The strike water was ready.  I asked my friend to start putting the grain into the water.  As he was putting the first scoop into the mash tun I realized I hadn't crushed the grain yet.  Later on I was weighing out the bittering hops (whole, homegrown Nugget).  I kept putting more hops into the bowl thinking I wouldn't have enough hops only to realize I needed 14 gm not 150 gm.  I guess that is what I get for getting up at 3am for work then brewing afterward.

What is your silly story?   :P

Equipment and Software / Better Bottle question
« on: November 30, 2009, 05:22:56 AM »
Hi All.  I am considering purchasing a couple of better bottles.  I really like the idea of them being light weight and unbreakable.  Plus they are actually cheaper than glass carboys now.   I have heard that you have to replace them every couple of years as they get "worn out".  For those of you out there that use better bottles would you say this is true?  How long can they be used for?  Any advice?  Thanks in advance.


Hi All.  I have been brewing for a few years and normally rack my beers to a secondary fermenter before bottling or kegging. It would be less work to transfer from the primary to keg or bottles.  However, I don't want to sacrifice the clarification or quality of the beer I am packaging.  My question is...  do you feel it is necessary to rack your beer to a secondary fermenter?  Why or why not?


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